Rachel Polycarpe on Creating Hair That Moves with Emotion

Behind the Image is an ongoing MODELS.com series taking a more personal look at both established and emerging creative talent.


Rachel Polycarpe | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Rachel Polycarpe, Hair Stylist

Hometown: Brooklyn, New York
Representation: Forward Artists

How did you first discover your passion for hair? Was there a specific moment?
Honestly, it started really young. I would raid beauty supply stores, trying to recreate the looks my hairstylist did on me. I was always drawn to more unconventional styles in hair magazines. But the real turning point? I remember helping a friend who was leading a fashion show and thinking, “This is where I belong. The adrenaline, the excitement, the looks, having my love for fashion and hair all in one space, I knew I needed more of that.”

How would you describe your work? What’s your trademark?

I’d say my work lives somewhere between structural and effortless. I love engineering looks, figuring out shape and balance, but I also enjoy when things feel a little undone, like you woke up looking chic and cool without even trying. I’m not sure what my trademark is just yet, but I’m obsessed with creating hair that moves, catches the light, and feels like it has a life of its own, something that sparks a bit of emotion. Even when it’s sculptural, there’s always a softness within it.

You’ve worked with artists like Olivia Dean and Chappell Roan. How do you translate their artistry into hair?
I’ve learned that it can’t just be about what looks good; it’s about what feels true to them in that moment. With musicians, I always start with the world they’re building. What does their music feel like? Is it nostalgic, theatrical, raw, or a little more chaotic? Then I think about silhouette, texture, and references that align with that. For red carpets, it’s about distilling their identity into a single, striking image. For tour, it’s more layered; it has to evolve, hold up under lights, and move through sweat and emotion.

What non-beauty influences shape your creative perspective?
Films are a major source of inspiration for me, especially those with a strong visual identity. I’m constantly pulling from cinematography, color grading, lighting, and different time periods. People-watching also plays a big role. Hair is such a personal form of expression, and it’s always interesting to see how someone approaches their own styling. Paintings and sculptures, in particular, are incredibly inspiring because hair is essentially sculpting in real time. Often, I’m trying to create hair imagery that evokes the same emotions you might feel when looking at a painting. Structure, balance, negative space, it all translates.

What other jobs have you had?
Oh, everything. Retail, office jobs, assisting, sweeping floors in salons, doing hair for free, just to build something. I even interned at a record label and worked as a wardrobe assistant. I think it’s important to explore all your interests and absorb everything. It all shapes your perspective and the person you become. Each role taught me something essential that I still use today.

What do you love most about what you do?
The transformation process, but not in a superficial way. I love watching someone become another version of themselves, seeing someone who may not be feeling their best grow in confidence and attitude. And the collaboration of it all. That moment when everything clicks, the stylist, makeup artist, photographer, the artist themselves. It’s electric. You can’t really replicate that anywhere else.

What have you watched, heard, or read lately that inspired you?
Honestly, watching the women I’ve been so lucky to work with go after what they want, work tirelessly to master their crafts, and champion other women while holding space for others has been both beautiful to witness and deeply inspiring.

Who’s one to watch?
I’m always drawn to people who have a point of view, not just talent, but identity. There are so many emerging artists right now who aren’t trying to fit into anything existing, and that’s where the magic is. The ones building their own worlds.

Selected Work


Olivia Dean by Daniel Jackson | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Vogue Australia December 2025 Cover
This was my first Vogue cover, and I felt so honored to do it with Olivia (Dean) at such a monumental moment in her career. It felt really special.


Gabriette by Aidan Zamiri | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Nothing Precious by Marcelo Gutierrez
Working with Gabbriette was amazing, and it was fun to create a look reminiscent of the 90s bombshell updos I loved growing up.


Hody Yim by Yanran Xiong | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Blanc Magazine #27 July 2024 Cover
This Blanc cover always makes me smile. So many small details went into ensuring the hair’s shape worked in harmony with the clothing and makeup angles.


Olivia Dean by Damien Maloney | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Olivia Dean for New York Times
I love the hair we did for the NY Times. It was soft, but there was a purposeful effort to still sculpt it around her face shape.


Elsa Majimbo by Abdul Ibrahim | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Elsa Majimbo for Okay Africa
We had so many hair changes for this shoot, but this one was my particular favorite because it felt exaggerated in a way that still complemented the close and the space effortlessly.


Minami Gessel by Enmi Yang | Image courtesy of Forward Artists

Personal Project, 2024
This shoot was a beautiful collaboration with friends. The absence of clothing made me feel free to go for it and create shapes and angles that almost draw your attention right up to the face.

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