For F/W 25, Francesco Risso expanded Marni’s surrealist universe, drawing inspiration from a month-long residency in London with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier. Their collaboration left a visible imprint on the collection, with Soldier even taking to the runway in a navy blue suit streaked with a painted flower—a direct nod to the fusion of fine art and fashion at play. At the core of the collection was the wolf motif, a symbol of strength that is embedded in Italian culture, brought to life through sumptuous faux fur accents that fused clothing with armor, like the single-breasted coats in hazel, sapphire, and mustard featured elongated fur scarves. While a ruby-red suit featured a wolf painting and intricate embellishments, power dressing took on an expressive, almost rebellious edge, balancing sharp tailoring with fluidity, as crisp dress shirts were draped with burnished bronze floral motifs. Cast by Rachel Chandler, fashion icon and actress Tracee Ellis Ross unexpectedly returned to the runway in a lemon-yellow long-sleeve silk dress with a Pop-art jagged lightning bolt. It marked her first runway appearance since the Spring 1991 Mugler show, where she shared the stage with her mother, Diana Ross. Other standout pieces included a velvet mixed-fabric dress worn by Sacha Quenby, a neon green faux fur poncho, crocodile flats and boots, and dramatic dark eyeshadow that added a theatrical edge to the looks. Risso continues to embrace the unexpected, pushing Marni further into a space where individuality reigns supreme.
