Designer shakeups. The Return of the Supermodels. Phoebe’s back (and Daria too!). 2023 felt like a push and pull between the past and the future as fashion saw the comeback of a few names of note and took a chance on the power of celebrity, with names like Pharrell Williams’ historic appointment to Louis Vuitton. Models.com looks back at some of the stories that stuck out in the year that was. Read on to see the full list of news stories that happened this year.
The Supermodels Reunion…times Infinity
After Linda Evangelista slowly started her resurgence last year, it was only a matter of time before the gang got back together. Legendary supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington reclaimed the spotlight in the fashion world this year with a dual British and American Vogue September cover issue and a captivating 4-part documentary on Apple TV that dropped this past fall, diving into their illustrious careers and the indelible mark they have left on the fashion landscape. Known for their iconic status in the 1990s, these formidable figures have once again demonstrated their unparalleled influence in the industry. Their enduring legacy and strong bond, which has withstood the test of time, are a testament to their unique camaraderie and professional excellence.
Designer Exits and Switch Ups
Puma
The most recent departure has been just a few days ago with June Ambrose, Puma’s creative director for women’s basketball, announcing this week that she is exiting the brand at the end of 2023. The celebrity stylist and costume designer is focused on pursuing various personal projects in the coming year. Ambrose has worked at Puma since 2020. In her time at Puma, she significantly extended women’s basketball merchandise and designed collections that combined elements of performance sportswear with innovative design and her signature vibrant colours. Her work in the music industry contributed to some of hip-hop’s most iconic fashion moments at a time when luxury brands were opposed to work with rappers. She styled Jay Z and Missy Elliott in her iconic black puffy suit in “The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly)” music video. Earlier in her career, Ambrose worked at Puma’s rival Adidas, where she served as creative director of the German brand’s collaboration with Elliott.
Bally
After less than two years, Rhuigi Villaseñor stepped down as the creative director of Bally. According to WWD, the decision was mutually agreed upon. Two weeks after Villaseñor‘s exit, the Swiss luxury brand announced his successor. Simone Bellotti, a designer with a 16-year tenure at Gucci, will take on the role of design director for the brand. Prior to his time at Gucci, Bellotti gained experience at renowned fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Gianfranco Ferre. Expressing his enthusiasm for his new position, Bellotti said, “The house’s unique Swiss heritage, combined with its rich history rooted in a pioneering spirit and an unwavering commitment to excellence, serves as a powerful inspiration.” He unveiled his first collection during Milan Fashion Week in September.
Givenchy
After a three-year tenure, Givenchy‘s creative director, Matthew M. Williams, exited the brand. he transition will take effect on January 1st, 2024, reflecting a trend towards shorter tenures at European heritage brands and a revamp at the luxury house owned by LVMH since 1998. Williams’ departure follows closely on the heels of his recent business partnership with Hong Kong entrepreneur Adrian Cheng, aimed at expanding the development of the designer’s signature brand, 1017 Alyx 9SM. Reflecting on his time at Givenchy, Williams stated, “Leading the creative direction of Givenchy was, as I said upon my arrival in 2020, the dream of a lifetime. Over these three years, I have strived to perpetuate Mr. Hubert de Givenchy’s legacy while bringing my own creative vision, and I would like to sincerely thank the studio, Renaud de Lesquen, and LVMH for this incredible opportunity.”
Gucci
Earlier in the year, the industry was taken by surprise when Kering-owned brand Gucci tapped Sabato De Sarno as the Italian brand’s new creative director. His first show for the brand was in September. De Sarno was raised in Naples and is currently based in Rome. He started his career at Prada in 2005, moving to Dolce & Gabbana before eventually joining Valentino in 2009 as the fashion director overseeing both men’s and women’s collections. Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri said, that De Sarno has “the required personality, ambition, and drive to fill his new, highly prestigious role. The eyes of the world will be on him to see if he also has the required creative genius. We are reassured by remarks about De Sarno’s profile: he will have to bear the pressure and find the courage to express an original and compelling view of what Gucci can be.” Since Sabato joined the team, the brand has had two viral campaigns, the Gucci High Jewelry 2023 Campaign with the return of Daria Werbowy and the Gucci ‘Valigeria’ Travel 2023 Campaign with Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny showcasing a new era for the brand.
Blumarine
Following the departure of Nicola Brognano at Blumarine, the brand revealed Walter Chiapponi as the new creative director. His debut Blumarine collection is scheduled in February during Milan Fashion Week. Chiapponi, previously the creative director at Tod’s, departed from the position in September following the brand’s womenswear Spring 2024 show. Marco Marchi, director of Eccellenze Italiane, the holding company that owns Blumarine said, “I am confident that Walter Chiapponi, with his internationally recognized talent and his fine stylistic sensibility, will bring new energy to Blumarine while honoring the brand’s extraordinary heritage. I am proud to write a new and important chapter with Walter.” Chiapponi said, “I am delighted to have been appointed creative director of an iconic Italian brand that has outlined over time an idea of femininity that is defined by lightness and creativity.” This transition could potentially signal the conclusion of Blumarine’s Y2K aesthetic, considering Chiapponi’s focus on monochromatic colors and silhouettes in his designs at Tod’s.
Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang tapped Peter Do as the creative director of the brand. Do spearheads both the men’s and women’s collections and reports directly to Helmut Lang’s CEO, Dinesh Tandon. Since 2020, the brand has been led by an in-house design team. Do and Lang share several similarities – Do, known for not showing his face in photos, reflects Lang’s departure from the runway spectacle of the ’90s and his shift towards intimate presentations before eventually retiring from the fashion industry completely in 2005. Do stated, “No one embodied radical thinking more than Helmut Lang. It is a profound honor for me to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of his legacy.” The designer debuted his first collection for Helmut Lang in spring 2024 during New York Fashion Week last September.
Ann Demeulemeester
Shortly after the news broke of Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s departure from Ann Demeulemeester, the brand announced its new creative director, Stefano Gallici. Gallici unveiled his collection during Paris Fashion Week. Having previously served as the menswear designer at the Demeulemeester house, Gallici is already familiar with the brand’s aesthetic. He began his career in Antwerp, Belgium, working as an assistant designer to Haider Ackermann before joining the Antonioli Group in January 2019. In 2020, the Antonioli Group, founded by Claudio Antonioli, acquired Ann Demeulemeester. Antonioli expressed his confidence in Gallici, stating, “Stefano immediately demonstrated strong creativity and a clear vision for Ann Demeulemeester. He embodies the brand’s DNA while keeping an eye on the future.”
Chloé
Chloé appointed Chemena Kamali as its next creative director. Kamali brings with her a wealth of experience, having previously worked at Saint Laurent, Lanvin, and at Chloé under both Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller earlier in her career. She succeeds Gabriela Hearst at Chloé and is set to debut her pre-fall collection in January and, later, a runway debut scheduled for fall 2024 during Paris Fashion Week. Kamali’s journey began with her studies in fashion design at the Trier University of Applied Sciences, followed by graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2007. She started her career at Chloé as part of Philo’s team and later returned in 2013 as design director under Waight Keller until 2016 when she left to become Saint Laurent’s women’s ready-to-wear design director under Anthony Vaccarello. Kamali expressed her excitement, saying, “My heart has always been Chloé’s. It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago. Returning feels natural and very personal. I am extremely honored to be taking on this role and to be building on the vision that Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld defined early in the Maison’s history. I hope to capture the emotional connection and spirit of Chloé for today.”
Supreme
Supreme‘s first-ever creative director, Tremaine Emory, resigned from his position, citing “systemic racism was at play within the structure of Supreme” as the primary reason for his departure. Established by James Jebbia in 1994, Supreme underwent a significant change in ownership in 2020 when VF Corp, the parent company of North Face, acquired the brand in a transaction valuing it at $2.1 billion. Jebbia retained his position as CEO and appointed Emory to the role of creative director. In an Instagram post, Emory detailed his decision to leave, pinpointing concerns with the actions of Supreme’s senior management during a project involving artist Arthur Jafa, whose work focuses on Blackness in America through film and occasionally explores themes related to slavery. Emory specifically aimed to incorporate a well-known photo from the National Portrait Gallery featuring a formerly enslaved man with whiplashes that Supreme apparently scrapped without informing Emory. Supreme is known for its past inspirations pulled from Black culture and hip-hop, and Emory’s posts on Instagram have been aimed at raising awareness among his followers about the critical need to foster diversity and equity within fashion corporations and empower Black employees to become decision-makers. Supreme has denied allegations that the project was canceled responding to the departure, “While we take these concerns seriously, we strongly disagree with Tremaine’s characterization of our company and the handling of the Arthur Jafa project, which has not been cancelled. This was the first time in 30 years where the company brought in a creative director. We are disappointed it did not work out with Tremaine and wish him the best of luck going forward.” [The Cut]
The Rise and Rise of the Celebrity Designer
Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton
Music producer, entrepreneur, and style icon Pharrell Williams was appointed as the new Menswear Creative Director of Louis Vuitton. This news broke during New York Fashion Week last February, with the first collection under Williams’ creative direction which debuted in June during men’s Paris Fashion Week and was filled with a swarm of celebrities like Beyonce, Jay-Z, and Zendaya. Pharrell Williams is no stranger to the fashion industry, having been involved in various collaborations with major brands such as Moncler, Louis Vuitton, and Adidas, and as a brand ambassador for Chanel. He also founded streetwear labels Billionaire Boys Club, IceCream, as well as a skincare brand, Humanrace. Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO, Pietro Beccari, expressed his excitement in welcoming Pharrell back to the brand after they collaborated in 2004 and 2008. He believes that Williams’ “creative vision beyond fashion will lead Louis Vuitton towards a new and exciting chapter.”
Future at Lanvin
Earlier this year, Future was brought on, temporarily, to help curate the collection for Lanvin Lab, the brand’s new design arm that will focus on rotating collaborations similar to AZ Factory. More pieces from the genderless ready-to-wear collection, all designed by Future, will be released next year. The brand hasn’t announced a new creative director after Bruno Sialelli left earlier this year. The collaboration arrives at a time when the partnership between music and fashion continues to grow.
A$AP Rocky at Puma/F1
Earlier this year, PUMA announced a multi-year licensing partnership to exclusively manufacture and distribute Formula 1 apparel at all races. Taking the helm of this collaboration, they brought on A$AP Rocky as the creative director, who will closely collaborate with PUMA’s CEO, Arne Freundt to create PUMA x F1 product spanning from racewear to fanwear to fashion. The plan includes releasing capsule collections throughout the 2024 race calendar, with A$AP Rocky making his debut in Miami curating activations. Rocky said, “working with brands as iconic as PUMA, and as innovative as F1, has been truly inspiring.” A$AP Rocky has ventured into design before, having co-designed collections with JW Anderson, Marine Serre, and Guess Originals.
Phoebe Philo’s Grand Return
After a highly anticipated wait, Phoebe Philo debuted her eponymous label’s first collection this past September. To ring in the collection, Philo tapped her doppelganger and muse, Daria Werbowy, to star in the brand’s campaign. Philo’s devoted fans, editors, and more have shared their eagerness. The British designer has been very lowkey since she announced in 2021 that she was returning to fashion with investments from an independent namesake house and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. In 2021, Philo said, “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.”
Those Who Left Us
The fashion world mourned the loss of many of its brightest stars this year, all who left a legacy that will resonate for generations to come. Among those that were lost was the iconic Tatjana Patitz, whose serene beauty and enigmatic presence made her a defining face of the 1980s and 1990s and a key figure in the supermodel set. Dame Mary Quant, the undisputed queen of the miniskirt, revolutionized women’s fashion in the 1960s and remained a symbol of freedom and rebellion. Jane Birkin, muse and style icon who continues to influence fashion, also passed away, remembered for her effortless chic, timeless appeal, and the eponymous Hermes bag named after her. Photographer Steve Mackey, renowned for his collaborative work with partner, editor, and stylist Katie Grand, also left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape with his creative approach.
The industry also bid farewell to model Gail O’Neill this fall, who broke barriers and championed diversity, leaving a legacy of inclusion and representation. Model agent Ivan Bart, played a pivotal role in shaping the careers of numerous models like Ashley Graham, Alek Wek, and Paloma Elsesser leaving behind a legacy of mentorship and innovation. Less than a few weeks after his creative director Moschino appointment, Italian designer Davide Renne unexpectedly passed at the age of 46. Lastly, Paco Rabanne, the visionary designer known for his futuristic paillette designs and unconventional materials, passed away, leaving a legacy of bold creativity and avant-garde design. Each of these luminaries contributed uniquely and significantly to the fashion world, and their absence will be deeply felt across the industry.
This Year in Fashion Media Was All About the Pioneers
2023 was a remarkable year for fashion media, with an array of impactful releases that delved deep into the industry’s history and its certifiable icons. Invisible Beauty, the documentary on Models.com 2023 Lifetime Achievement recipient Bethann Hardison, stands out for its insightful exploration of the model, agent, and activist’s trailblazing career and advocacy for diversity in fashion, offering an inspiring and thought-provoking narrative. Equally compelling was the HBO Max documentary on Donyale Luna, which beautifully captured the life and legacy of the first Black supermodel, revealing her profound impact on the fashion world. Hulu’s Pretty Baby: Brooke Shields provided a unflinching look into Shields’ early career and her complex relationship with the fashion industry, presenting a nuanced portrayal of her journey. Lastly, Steven Meisel paired up this year with his ultimate muse Linda Evangelista for a book that offers an intimate glimpse into the life of one of the most iconic supermodels, filled with personal anecdotes and historic imagery, making it a must-buy for anyone who is a model history enthusiast.
