Melitta Baumeister Wins the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund
German designer Melitta Baumeister won the 19th CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Runners-up were Rachel Scott of Diotima and Henry Zankov of Zankov. Melitta Baumeister claimed the top prize, receiving a substantial $300,000 in cash, while the two runners-up were awarded grants of $100,000 each. In addition, all the winners, runners-up, and finalists will benefit from valuable mentorship. Melitta Baumeister, who is based in New York, earned her master’s degree in fashion design from Parsons in 2013 and co-founded her brand alongside visual artist Paul Jung in the same year. This past September, she unveiled her spring 2024 collection in Chinatown, featuring her signature lampshade hemlines and her designs can now be found in retailers such as Dover Street Market, H. Lorenzo, Atelier, and Ant/Dote. Rachel Scott, originally from Jamaica and a finalist for the LVMH Prize, heads Diotima, an artisan luxury wear line established in 2021. Diotima is celebrated for its exquisite handwoven crochet silhouettes, available at stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Moda Operandi, and McMullen, among others. Before embarking on her brand, she gained valuable experience while living in Milan and working at Costume National. Henry Zankov, who gained experience working with several LVMH-affiliated brands, introduced his brand in 2019, known for its innovative knitwear techniques. According to WWD, his label was created with the goal of injecting playfulness, vibrant colors, freshness, and ease into both men’s and women’s knitwear. Thom Browne, chairman of the CFDA said, “The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has always supported truly creative talent…it has been a way for the world to see new and unique stories…from my story in 2005 to the new stories we’re celebrating today…congratulations to Melitta Baumeister as well as Henry Zankov and Rachel Scott, and all finalists doing truly individual and creative work…” [WWD]
Nicola Brognano Exits Blumarine, Sources Say Walter Chiapponi May Succeed Him
After a four-year tenure, Nicola Brognano is departing from his role as creative director at Blumarine. In a jointly decided move, the Italian fashion brand announced Brognano’s departure. Blumarine, owned by the EIH Eccellenze Italiane group and led by Marco Marchi, founder of EEI, had appointed Brognano to rejuvenate the brand, a task he succeeded in by infusing it with a Y2K DNA that resonated with younger generations. Marchi said, “Bringing the brand back into the spotlight was a truly unique and exciting opportunity. I thank Marco Marchi for this chance and my team for the extraordinary work achieved together.” Before his time at Blumarine, Brognano held notable positions at Giambattista Valli and Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda. In 2016, he embarked on his entrepreneurial journey by launching his eponymous brand, however, Brognano’s focus on his own brand was temporarily put on hold when he joined Blumarine. According to WWD, sources suggest that Walter Chiapponi, who stepped down from his role as creative director of Tod’s in September after the brand’s womenswear spring 2024 show, is set to join Blumarine. Chiapponi had been overseeing the brand’s women’s and men’s collections at Tod’s since October 2019. Before his time at Tod’s, he had worked for years at Bottega Veneta with the brand’s former creative director, Tomas Maier. He began his career at Blumarine while the Tarabini family still owned it, and over the years, he also gained experience at Givenchy, Gucci, Miu Miu, and Valentino. If Chiapponi indeed heads to Blumarine, it would mark a significant shift in the brand’s aesthetic. [WWD] [WWD]
Moschino Taps Davide Renne as Creative Director
The House of Moschino has appointed Davide Renne as its new creative director, following Jeremy Scott’s departure from the brand in March after a decade of leadership. Renne brings two decades of experience at Gucci, where he worked under both Frida Giannini and Alessandro Michele, eventually rising to the position of head designer for women’s fashion. At Moschino, Renne will assume responsibility for overseeing women’s, men’s, and accessories for the brand’s main line. He will officially assume the role of the brand’s fourth-ever creative director on November 1st and will unveil his collection during the F/W 24 season at Milan Fashion Week in February. Massimo Feretti, the executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company, Aeffe said, “We have all been impressed by Davide’s extremely sophisticated vision of fashion’s power to create a living dialogue with the world around us, and by his deep understanding of the House of Moschino’s legacy and of our codes. We are confident that he will play a pivotal role in shaping the future of Moschino, a global house with an Italian heart, and a truly unique DNA in the luxury industry.” [W Magazine]
Bottega Veneta Opens Craft Academy
Bottega Veneta, renowned for its intricate leather craftsmanship under Matthieu Blazy’s creative direction, is now passing on this artisanal legacy to the next generation. Established in 1966 with the birth of the iconic ‘intrecciato’ leather weaving technique, the brand is reaffirming its steadfast commitment to the art of craft through the opening of the Accademia Labor et Ingenium, which translates to the ‘Academy of Craft and Creativity.’ Both of these establishments are nestled in Veneto, a region in northeastern Italy that has been the brand’s home since its inception. The esteemed academy will open its doors to 50 students each year, and upon program completion, it guarantees employment within the house. The teaching staff comprises five master artisans from Bottega Veneta, and the academy further extends its support by providing mentorship for existing employees, guiding them in the realms of upcycling and reskilling. The academy also forges partnerships with local collaborators, fostering a celebration of the rich tapestry of Italian craftsmanship within the region. [Wallpaper]
Helmut Newton – Fact & Fiction Exhibition Coming to Spain
An exhibition celebrating the life and iconic imagery of German-Australian photographer Helmut Newton is set to debut in A Coruña, Spain this fall. Titled Helmut Newton – Fact & Fiction, the exhibition will run from November 18, 2023, through May 1, 2024. This exhibition is a close collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation and will be curated by Philippe Garner, Matthias Harder, and Tim Jefferies. It marks the third exhibition organized by the Marta Ortega Pérez (MOP) Foundation. The exhibition aims to provide a comprehensive view of Newton’s personal and professional journey. It will feature a series of videos showcasing Newton at work and in conversation, as well as personal images offering insights into his childhood, career, and partnership with his photographer wife, June. Newton’s renowned portraits, including those of Jerry Hall, David Bowie, Margaret Thatcher, Charlotte Rampling, Elsa Perretti, Daryl Hannah, Naomi Campbell, Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, and Karl Lagerfeld, will be on display. Additionally, his ‘Big Nudes’ series and lesser-known landscape photographs will be part of this engaging exhibition.
Helmut Newton, Italian Vogue, Monte Carlo, 2003 Polaroid © Helmut Newton Foundation
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