Rick Owens returned to Palais de Tokyo after four seasons of audience-less shows at his home base, Venice, and his re-entry back into the Paris scene was a declaration of his house’s unique grandness for the past two decades. Titled Fogachine, from billowing clouds of smoke emerged muse and spouse Michele Lamy who led the way of a procession of platformed hedonistic warriors decked in complex spiderweb knits and over-the-top proportions that cocooned the frame. All the coveted Rickisms were there: strong, padded shoulders; sheer, billowing jersey; warped leather; along with delightful bursts of color in summer sky blue, acidic chartreuse, pig pink, and burnt orange. His towering perspex-heeled platforms looked taller than ever, with this season’s iteration designed as caged, shin-guarded sandals that are half-gladiator, half-terminator. The paired ombre looks on Kim Jia and Xia Narain were standouts in a collection that’s ready for whatever the future throws at us next.
Matylda Sokolowska and Ghenesis Gomez
