Couture Wraps, NYFW New Name, and more of the news you missed

IMG Signs Amanda Gorman and Ella Emhoff
The youngest inaugural poet, 22-year-old Amanda Gorman sparked a sense of hope after she delivered her captivating poem “The Hill We Climb” during President Biden’s Inauguration last week, wearing Prada. The poet’s transcending inaugural recitation led to Gorman’s upcoming books becoming Amazon bestsellers by the end of the day. A Harvard alumnae, Gorman will be performing at the Super Bowl LV pre-show in February and has already had some impressive past campaigns with Helmut Lang and Nike. More is to come for the rising star, as she just joined the IMG roster who will be representing her for beauty and fashion related endorsements.

Gorman wasn’t the only one breaking the internet during the inauguration and snagging IMG deals, Second Daughter and Parsons fine arts student Ella Emhoff has quickly risen to the fashion influencer ranks as well. Emhoff dubbed “the Second Daughter of Bushwick”, wore an embellished Miu Miu coat during the inauguration that went viral “generating a 455% spike in searches for Miu Miu coats in six hours.” IMG president Ivan Bart took notice of this and announced that the modeling agency will also be representing Emhoff and told the New York Times that “It’s not really about shape, size or gender anymore. Ella communicates this moment in time. There’s a cheekiness and a joy she exudes.” [WWD]

L’Occitane USA Files for Chapter 11
This week it was announced that Frenchy beauty brand L’Occitane will be closing 23 of its 166 stores in the US and beginning voluntary Chapter 11 proceedings. Though the beauty business has boomed online during the pandemic, brick-and-mortar operations have become a burden, and L’Occitane North America’s retail sales have declined by 56% since April 2020. No word on whether the company, known predominantly for its skincare products, will be shuttering stores in other countries. [BoF]

Thom Browne Launches Childrenswear
This week the campaign for New York-based designer Thom Browne’s new childrenswear line debuted, brought to life by a cast of six diverse child models shot in black and white by Cass Bird. The collection consists of Thom Browne uniform essentials in miniature, including wool twill trousers, pleated skirts, and blazers which the designer describes as “a classic approach that lets each individual shine.” [Vogue]

The Spring Couture Shows are Wrapped
While Kim Jones first couture foray for Fendi was restrained in its subdued soft color palette, his Shelley Durkan led cast did not hold back. With a focus on family, Jones brought out his longstanding muses first opening with Demi Moore then Christy Turlington and nephew James Turlington (yes men at couture, more on that later), Kate Moss and daughter Lila Moss, Fendi heiresses Delfina Delettrez and Leonetta Luciana Fendi with Naomi Campbell closing. As Valentino couture opener Mariacarla Boscono strutted out in the Palazzo Colonna in Rome in her white cashmere cape look and skyhigh, gilded heels it was clear that Pierpaolo Piccioli has had enough of stuffiness, continuing to build upon his delicate balance between maximalist extremism and tasteful modernity. Again at Valentino, we saw men (around a third of the cast) showcasing how even couture rigid rules are meant to be broken in a fashion world demanding evolution.

More on that much-needed evolution, can recycled plastic polymers be on the same level as organic silk? Iris van Herpen certainly thinks so, incorporating upcycled marine debris into her sci-fi couture textiles manipulated with laser printing and pleating. Titled ‘Roots of Rebirth’, the Casey Curran adorned casting included models Nina Gulien, Nikki Vonsee, Nyarach Abouch Ayuel, Iranian Dutch singer Sevdaliza and surprise closer, Natalia Vodianova. Fresh off of a viral moment with Lady Gaga’s inauguration gown, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli expounds on the codes of the house of fun, surreal expressionism full of trompe l’oeil. Haven’t done a crunch in months? There’s a dress for that. Bit of an exhibtionist? There’s a look for that too. With much debate on what is considered couture even New York brand, Area got in on the fun, unveiling a new sector of their brand dedicated solely to custom, couture orders. Models Precious Lee and Yasmin Wijnaldum showcase that they’re ready for your glittery needs, no matter the vessel.

CFDA Renames NYFW to the ‘American Collections Calendar’
As NYFW has come to a grinding halt for the past two seasons due to COVID and more designers looking to show off-season, CFDA chairman Tom Ford announced today that the show schedule would be renamed to the ‘American Collections Calendar’ in an effort to accommodate designers showing after February 17th. In the WWD article, Ford wrote “While the CFDA will continue to encourage American designers to show in New York during New York Fashion Week, we recognize the need for some to broaden their global visibility. In the past few years, many of our members have chosen to show in Europe, Asia, and other key markets and in many cases off-calendar. The events of the past year have only highlighted the need for flexibility within the fashion system.”

Vogue Will Have Another Global Issue for March
After last September’s “Hope Issue” which united Vogue’s entire international roster, Conde Nast is betting on another unified theme for all 27 editions for March, its other behemoth sales month. The upcoming month is focused on “creativity” with editor-in-chief and global editorial director, American Vogue and global chief content officer of Condé Nast Anna Wintour remarking, “With so many reasons to be optimistic about a brighter future, Vogue thought what better way to celebrate than to focus on creatives all across the globe — whose glorious and gorgeous, inclusive and joyful images offer an inspiring look at the world of fashion today.” [FASHIONISTA]

The Latest Supermodel Spawn Has Arrived
Last month Leni Klum made her debut on the cover of Vogue Germany alongside her mom Heidi, but that isn’t the last you will be seeing of fashion’s latest supermodel offspring. Sixteen-year-old Leni, whose father is Italian businessman Flavio Briatore, has already shot for Hunger magazine with Rankin and walked the (virtual) runway at Berlin Fashion Week. Is she about to take the same route as Kaia Gerber, Lila Moss, and the new UK Dior Beauty ambassador, Iris Law? Stay tuned. [The Daily]


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