Vanity Fair Makes Late History, Fashion Week is back (?) and more of the news you missed

British Vogue EIC Edward Enninful Racially Profiled at Conde Nast UK Offices
British Vogue‘s editor-in-chief Edward Enninful says he was racially profiled while entering Condé Nast’s London headquarters on Wednesday. On social media, Enniful described how he was turned away from the front door by a security guard and instructed to enter through the loading dock–which is for deliveries–at the rear of the Vogue House building. In 2017 Enninful became British Vogue’s first Black editor-in-chief. “It just goes to show that sometimes it doesn’t matter what you’ve achieved in the course of your life: the first thing that some people will judge you on is the colour of your skin,” he wrote on Instagram. Condé Nast has since dismissed the guard, who worked for a third-party security contractor.

Vanity Fair Latest Cover Shot by a Black Photographer for the first time
Dario Calmese has made history by becoming the first Black photographer featured on the cover of Vanity Fair magazine. Calmese’s portrait of Viola Davis appears on the July/August issue, and references The Scourged Back, an image depicting a runaway slave named Gordon which was widely disseminated by abolitionists during the American Civil War. In addition to photography, Calmese, a School of Visual Arts graduate originally from Missouri, works closely with Pyer Moss. [NYT]

Fashion week is back but is it working?
The show must go on? A handful of brands have returned back to the runways with models, editors, and audiences alike questioning if the traditional format is even worth it during an ongoing, global pandemic. Things started off with Etro menswear Spring 2021 in Milan, the formerly-lockdown fashion capital that months ago was reeling from COVID-19 hosted the first physical show held in front of an actual audience. The diverse casting did not reflect in its curated audience of 80 guests as Diet Prada pointed out. So there’s that. Invoking last year’s Summer show, Jacquemus took to a field of wheat in place of lavender and presented a modest collection of muted pastels that couldn’t have possibly been shown in another format. The hills were alive with socially distanced guests and broadcast live via Instagram Stories. Splendid. Dolce & Gabbana tried the virtual show format for Alta Moda, failed to make a splash, and so naturally went back to what they’re used to for 104 looks of menswear. In mosaic shades of blue, the Santorini vacation Americans will eventually be able to take in a few years will be outfitted swimmingly. There were no guests but the Zegna team at Ermenegildo Zegna as models walked through the Oasi Zegna campus in Trivero. Creative director Alessandro Sartori explained in the live stream event that the show marked 110 years and then went through the looks to discuss fabric weights and colors of the season.

Burberry to Cut Headquarter Jobs
Burberry is the latest luxury retailer to undergo a ‘reorganization strategy’ in an attempt to weather the economic storm caused by COVID-19. In a statement made last week, the brand announced that the revamp will be under the guidance of chief executive officer Mario Gobbetti, and will entail a renewed focus on ready-to-wear, bags and shoes. This new strategy will mean an unspecified number of job losses at Burberry’s London head office, which the company has yet to comment on. [BoF] Has Rankings Updates!
As models move past quarantine lockdowns and get back to business, we continue to acknowledge the career growth they have snagged in the very best campaigns, lookbooks and editorials. Check out new additions of Ashley Radjarame, Aweng Chuol, Cyrielle Lalande, Maty Fall, Vaughan Ollier, and Vivienne Rohner to Hot list and Bente Oort and Mona Tougaard to Top 50.

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