Moschino Men F/W 2013

For Fall 2013, Moschino designer Bill Shapiro went, if you’ll allow us to indulge in a cheesy cliché for a moment, mad for plaid. There’s no better way to describe a collection which, from Robert Laby’s opening fur-trimmed tartan overcoat to Malcolm de Ruiter’s checked tuxedo, had the traditional Scottish pattern as a distinct through line. That’s not to say the show, held in a century-old restaurant, was one-note, however, as it also ran through some solid motorcycle jackets and a somewhat disconcerting silkscreen of a Tokyo nightscape. It was a rather subdued outing for the brand, especially after last season’s Warholian frenzy of supermarket logos-as-sportswear, but there were hints of that Moschino cheek nonetheless, as in Thomas Sottong’s sweater emblazoned with hearts, arrows, and peace signs, or a dark suit that glittered with a subtle sparkle. There were also a number of standout outerwear pieces, like Kye D’Arcy’s sharp wool overcoat, adding another layer to a season that forged new ground in many directions.

Photos: Dirk Alexander
Text: Jonathan Shia

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