Sophie Theallet (Print & Contact) stayed true to her own paradigms for Fall 2015 designing a well-mannered collection with her signature autumnal palette and variations of traditional shapes. On display was Theallet’s flair for marrying colors and employing pattern as an instrument, rather than a statement. Well-placed eccentricities such as leather ruffles added flounce and black lace brought the looks from day to night. Her biggest gamble was taking advantage of a color narrative that nearly stretched itself thin. But in succession on the runway, opened by Waleska Gorczevski, the collection demonstrated the designer’s playful elasticity. She first introduced more vibrant pieces dominated by full-hued pinks, teals, oranges and lavenders. The designer then subdued and divvied those colors to partner, without a fight, to less insistent luxury silhouettes, the impact working in her favor. Her patterned sweaters and sometimes fussy pairings advanced to elegance by way of slitted skirts, a patinated pants suit and gold, floor-length gowns worn by Codie Young and show closer, Aamito Lagum. The vitals of the collection kept mostly within Sophie’s tried template that she continues to cultivate; that habitat being French sensibilities and a nod to her fashion milieu under Alaïa. Hair, by the brush of Peter Gray, was French as well: no priority on the brushing, but stylish and feminine.

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