Diesel Black Gold has demonstrated a new sense of cohesion since returning to its Italian roots last season after showing in New York for several years. Designer Renzo Rosso seems to have recaptured the rocker vibe that has been a throughline—for better or worse—for the brand since it was founded in the late ’70s. For Spring 2013, that meant bowlers, skinny scarves, and a punk-inflected black-and-white stripe that showed up all over the place. There were the obligatory leather jackets, although frequently with a delicate embossing that served to separate the line from the more mass-market Diesel mainline offerings. Color has been a big story for Milan, and the major hues here were a serene, deep cerulean and a burnished (and name-appropriate) gold. There was an overall sense of lightness—another big trend already this season—that was a refreshing change from some of the label’s previous outings, which at times felt weighed down by conflicting visions. What a welcome homecoming.

Text by Jonathan Shia

Photos by Ekoas

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