Photos: Ken Pao for models.com
Text: Jonathan Shia
Where Richard Chai went soft for Spring, he came in sharp for Fall 2011 with one of his most mature collections yet. The opening gray suit—an item that is seemingly ubiquitous this season—alone was enough to signal that the Chai man is starting to grow up. The designer has been known before for his visually stimulating mixes of textures and patterns, but it was the tailoring that really came to the fore here. Jackets, blazer, and overcoats hung gracefully yet solidly while even soft-looking sweaters and shirts maintained their strong shapes, often clinging to arms and chests. One olive coat was particularly enticing, with its casual sheen and tough swagger. But Chai still managed to work in some of his favorite idées fixes, including a few plaid pieces and a miniscule candy-colored bird print that appeared on silken shirts and pants that looked like cheeky pajama separates. The collection as a whole was a remarkable and largely successful departure for the designer, who proved that his conception of adulthood is just as coherent and enticing as the vision of youth he celebrated so winningly before.
2-Mateus/Request, Alex Dunstan
7-Frederik/Tomorrow is Another Day
11-Edward Kim, Richard Chai, Robbie Spencer