Gareth Pugh Spring 2014

September 26th, 2013

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Gareth Pugh Spring 2014

Gareth Pugh‘s Spring show ended with the strains of Queen’s hit ‘I Want To Break Free’ blaring as models stomped their way through the Palais de Tokyo. The song was an upbeat break from the week’s techno soundtracks and a coy statement from a designer who has come to be known for a particular look. The Gareth name calls to mind layers of black and an army of neo-goths, but with his assured spring showing, Pugh challenged perceptions. Starting off with a mix of vivid jewel tones on Sasha Luss, Pugh set the stage for a collection that was equal parts ethereal and hardcore. A frothy marabou covered headdress (in pink no less) called to mind cotton candy and metallic textures echoed the season’s love affair with shine, but these softer details were tempered with severity that was impossible to resist.

Sharp lines and dramatic lengths dominated Pugh’s vision for the season, with floor length gowns and plastic corsetry front and center the concept of daytime casual was far from the designer’s mind. Instead, we were treated to a dose of haute elegance cribbed from sci-fi, spherical shoulders, shiny latex and a strong dose of futurism. The day may eventually come when Gareth is whisked off to Hollywood to conceive costumes for cinema, but until then he provides Paris’ first jolt of theatricality and fun.

Runway photos: Stephan Moskovic
Backstage photos: Daniella Rech
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Styling: Katie Shillingford
Hair: Martin Cullen
Make up: Alex Box
Casting: Kannon Rajah
Press: Karla Otto

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Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2013

February 28th, 2013

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2013

After last season’s exploration of flamenco fancy, Gareth Pugh returns to his gothic roots with a collection focused around strength, femininity and extreme silhouettes. Looking to the modern day warrior women of the Asgarda as an influence, Pugh crafted one of his finest shows to date. Starting with a series of pure white gowns that flirted with romanticism (one can easily imagine a fashion forward bride wearing one of Pugh’s sweeping gold embroidered dresses) then moving into darker territory slowly but surely, Pugh created a sense of drama. With over 50 looks Pugh’s collection gradually built to its crescendo; the creamy gowns were slowly replaced by powdery grey pieces and a section of unexpectedly vibrant blues. Each ensemble added to the powerful mood and set against the opulence of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, the looks took on a decadent sensibility – who says goth can’t be glamorous?

Pugh’s expansive collection had several standout moments – the outwear looks with their oversized collars and nipped waists were especially alluring – but the pièce de résistance came via the outlandish fringed finale looks. Shown in a variety of permutations, from a simple touch of fringe adorning a black muff, to fantastical pieces that looked like exquisite shredded garbage bags, these over the top additions harked back to Pugh’s theatrical early collections. Judging by the pleased reaction of editors, stylists and front row superstar, Cher the added touch of drama was appreciated by all.

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Styling: Katie Shillingford
Hair: Martin Cullen
Make up: Alex Box
Casting: Kannon Rajah
Set design: Simon Costin
Music: Matthew Stone
Show production: La Mode En Images
Nails: Marian Newman
Press: Karla Otto

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Gareth Pugh S/S 2013

September 27th, 2012

Gareth Pugh S/S 2013

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2013

Gareth Pugh is feeling a bit of Spanish flair, but don’t expect a literal interpretation on his runway. Pugh has made his impact on the fashion scene by creating clothes that are esoteric, unexpected and to varying degrees, outlandish. The aggressive drama of his early collections has mellowed into a kind of hard-edged elegance, no less exciting, but certainly more wearable. Pugh’s S/S 13 runway boasted an impeccable array of luxe gowns, detailed dresses and distinctive pants, nearly all of which seemed ready to step off the catwalk and onto the bodies of editors, models and other chic Parisians.

We’ve come to expect a certain level of spectacle from Pugh, but he’s far from being predictable. Each season he skillfully takes his inspirations beyond the first level of understanding and into conceptual territory. When Pugh explores flamenco dressing and mantillas, he serves them up with gothic theatrics, shrouding them in diaphanous black gauze that renders the wearer anonymous. Rather than mimic the shape of dancer’s costumes exactly, he transforms them into pants and singlehandedly makes flares cool again. Backstage took a modest view of his talents, stating that he was looking to “the silhouette of a flamenco dancer, something really tight at the knee that flares out – we tried it in a skirt and it looked awful. Luckily the pants worked beautifully.”

The pants worked and so did everything else: from the crimson shock of those blood red ensembles, to surgical precision of the leather jackets and laser cut pieces. Each element combined to make a cohesive and powerful statement and it all rested atop mile high silver accented heels that may just be the season’s statement shoe. The urbane geisha hair and crimson makeup were bewitching additions, polishing off a look that was already flawless. That single saline tear applied by Alex Box and seen dripping down the models’ proved a fittingly emotional final touch.

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Casting: Kannon Rajah
Styling: Katie Shillingford at Intrepid
Hair: Martin Cullen at Streeters London
Make up: Alex Box at D+V and the M.A.C Pro Team
Nails: Marian Newman for M.A.C
Set Design: Simon Costin
Headpieces: Noel Stewart

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Viktor & Rolf F/W 2012

March 4th, 2012

Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2012

A pale moon rises in the distance and the Viktor & Rolf heroines emerge, stepping out from darkness and appearing in graceful silhouettes before an awestruck crowd. This may sound slightly melodramatic, but as fashion’s foremost purveyors of theatrics, Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren know how to bring a story to life on the runway. Their artful presentation is half the fun: this season the duo outdid themselves, with a spooky set and shadowed figures striking poses before taking a leisurely stroll down the catwalk.

Fall’s tale was all about the beauty of contrasts, a look that was powerful yet moody enough to conjure ominous imagery. That meant inky jet-black pieces, silk-satin pajamas for day, thick pelts reshaped with razors, and a flash of skin through transparent tulle as demure ruffles covered the rest of the body. Accessories played with hard and soft, utilizing tortoise shell and fur to great effect – expect those high boots to fly off store shelves the minute they arrive. The tour de force ended with a series of finale dresses that dazzled with their tiers of fabric and sparkle. Upon first glance it seemed like even more fur adorned those scintillating gowns, but a closer look revealed that the fringe was painstakingly crafted glass embroidery.

Casting: Andrew Weir for ACW
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Production: Alexandre de Betak for Bureau Betak

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

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Gareth Pugh F/W 2012

February 29th, 2012

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2012

Gareth Pugh has always approached fashion from an unconventional perspective. From his earliest collections onward Pugh has created a vision of glamour that is arresting and individual. His eponymous line has become more wearable over time but he has never lost his flair for drama. Pugh’s fall extravaganza began with confetti spilling from the sky and a thrilling first look featuring the combo of spherical headdress & mountain of fur. If the pounding techno beat blaring in the background didn’t grab your attention, Ms. Small’s sartorial strut certainly did.

Sumptuous textures were a motif throughout the show, with fur adorning everything from skirts to leather jackets and capes. Gareth’s girls might look foreboding, but they’ll never be cold. Layers of fringe provided a fetching alternative to all those hides, with a surprisingly slinky set of dresses paired with thigh high boots for maximum effect. We wouldn’t be surprised if the unique draped wedge boots that featured throughout the show became the heel hit of the season.

Casting: Kannon Rajah
Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Makeup: Alex Box
Hair: Martin Cullen

Runway photos: Stephan Moskovic
Backstage photos: Janelle Okwodu
Text: Janelle Okwodu

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Gareth Pugh S/S 2012

September 29th, 2011

Strong, striking and structured Gareth Pugh’s spring collection demanded your attention from the very first look. With a bombastic pre-show film starring Crystal Renn setting the mood, Pugh created an atmosphere of pure drama. Just when you thought things couldn’t get any wilder they did and with each successive piece he upped the ante. Criss-crossing cubes of transparent netting adorned the first few dresses, garnering gasps from the audience, while the Phillip Treacy masks of the finale had Paris’ most jaded fashionistas clapping. Intense graphics were the collection’s dominant motif: stripes and armour-like adornments added interest to the ensembles, particularly those perilous wedges destined for editorial greatness. Pugh has always been able to move his audience, but this season’s blend of theatricality and craftsmanship ranks among spring’s finest.
Gareth Pugh
Spring/Summer 2012

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Casting: Kannon Rajah
Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Makeup: Alex Box
Hair: Martin Cullen
Video wall: Ruth Hogben

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Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2011

March 7th, 2011

Backstage at Viktor and Rolf a sign read, “you are a soldier in the Viktor and Rolf Army, an army to fight for beauty!” While this message may have been intended to motivate catwalkers, it can also serve as nod to the collection itself, which was filled with aggressive ensembles. Strong shoulders, high collars and armor inspired detailing were seen throughout the mostly black and crimson offerings, while models – in one of the best show casting of the season – sported bright red warpaint on their faces, courtesy of Pat McGrath. V&R have always played with imagery that straddles the line between violent and romantic – they are the purveyors of Flowerbomb after all – but could this collection be making a covert statement about fashion’s current state of chaos? The answer may be elusive, but everyone can appreciate the artistry found in the pieces themselves; sharp tailoring and statement making are two of their specialities and there was no shortage of that on the runway. The final segment of dresses and coats with origami folds in shades of silver was truly a sight to behold.
Viktor & Rolf
Fall/Winter 2011

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Casting director: Andrew Weir for ACW
Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Makeup: Pat McGrath

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Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2011

March 2nd, 2011

Is this the softer side of Gareth Pugh? Though the designer is known for his avant garde flourishes, his fall collection was relatively subdued. Metallic gothwear may have shown up during the spirited finale, but the majority of the looks were streamlined and minimal. A blue segment in the middle even added a surprise hint of romanticism that makes us wonder if the prince of unwearable art pieces has grown up at long last. Pugh’s newly mature viewpoint is certain to find new fans with its assured take on luxury and beauty.
Gareth Pugh
Fall/Winter 2011

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Casting director: Kannon Rajah
Stylist: Katie Shillingford

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Viktor & Rolf S/S 11

October 5th, 2010

For sheer spectacle it is pretty hard to top Viktor & Rolf; their collections pair technical innovation with pure eye-candy season after season and spring’s offerings are no exception. With illustrator Piet Paris’ abstract creations serving as a backdrop, models strutted down the runway in a series of theatrical looks that showcased V&R’s talent for cutting as well as their flair for drama. Revisiting a favorite motif, via cuffed detailing on dresses and tops, Horsting and Snoeren explored the allure of the classic tailored shirt. The simple wardrobe staple was fringed, folded, worked and re-worked into ornate tops, breezy dresses and of course intricate pieces of the grand finale. In a season where everyone seems to be cutting back and paring down, it is comforting to know that there are still designers who can be counted on for flights of imaginative fancy. The grandiose gowns featured at the tail end of the collection were nothing short of jaw dropping; the pure white and the piles of folds and layers all adding up to the kind of ensembles you usually have to wait until couture to see.
Viktor & Rolf
Spring/Summer 2011

Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu

Viktor & Rolf Spring/Summer 2011

Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Casting: Andrew Weir for ACW
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Producer: Alexandre de Betak for Bureau Betak

Soundtrack: Billy Idol / White Wedding

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Dazed By Youth // New faces by Collier Schorr

May 12th, 2010

Models.com presents an exclusive preview of Dazed & Confused‘s June 2010 new faces portfolio shot by acclaimed artist Collier Schorr in collaboration with Dazed’s Katie Shillingford and Robbie Spencer.
Also read the Dazed & Confused June issue announcement on DazedDigital.com.










Art work / photos: Collier Schorr
Style: Katie Shillingford and Robbie Spencer

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Gareth Pugh F/W 10

March 3rd, 2010


Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2010
Stylist: Katie Shillingford
Casting: Kannon Rajah
Hair: Martin Cullen @ Streeters London
Makeup: Alex Box @ D+V Management and the M·A·C Pro Team
Make-Up provided by M·A·C Cosmetics
Art Direction: Simon Costin
PR: Mandi Lennard Publicity Ltd
Music: Matthew Stone
Graphics: Byron Parr
Nail styles provided by Marian Newman for CND
Hosiery: Jonathan Aston @ Mytights.com
Styling Assistance: Nelma Kalonji
Production: La Mode En Images
Studio Manager: Henderson McCue
Studio Supervisor: Lucy Marshall

Photos: Stephan Moskovic

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