Derek Lam Fall/Winter 2013
“The look is minimalist but bohemian,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux used those words to describe the refined beauty look at Derek Lam, but his statement also sums up Lam’s streamlined fall collection. While other designers attempt to wow audiences with stunt styling, Lam focuses on creating the kind of clean, effortless American sportswear that will remain relevant, no matter how many seasons pass. A glimpse at his fall runway provided a concise overview of several of the moment’s key trends worn alongside pieces that could have been culled from the racks of vintage haunts like Decades or Didier Ludot. Lam offered alluring shapes, both old and new, in pared down variations that required little embellishment.
Take the opening ensemble on Caroline Brasch-Nielsen, for example: a cool camel cape worn over a geometric patterned sweater and a pair of color-blocked trousers. Taken out of its runway context and placed onto the streets, the look would be not only chic, but impossible to date. Clean lines and great cuts will always be in demand and there was plenty of that to take in, from black leather caplets and peacoats with contrasting lapels, to pure white blouses with crisscross detailing. Each element of the collection echoed fashion’s move towards understated luxury and low-key cool.
Which brings us to the bohemian touches: rather than go for all out Stevie Nicks pastiche, Lam added zest to his fall look with a few well-placed Boho moments. Candy-colored furs, crochet mini-dresses, and even a couple below the knee skirts worn with python boots, for the true Seventies enthusiasts. As elegant as minimalism can look, sometimes a girl just wants to throw on a berry tinted fur and kick up her patent leather heels.
Text by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for Models.com