Archive for the 'Menswear' Category

Patrik Ervell F/W 15

February 18th, 2015

pehome

Patrik Ervell F/W 15

As guests filed into the runway space at Milk Studios for Patrik Ervell’s Fall 2015 show late Monday afternoon, they were greeted by the soft glow of neon, which lined several freestanding set pieces in harsh concrete, a collection of graphic planters, steps, and sharp angles that had a backward-looking sense of the future—or, perhaps, a forward-looking sense of the past. When the designer explained that the design was inspired by Brutalist architecture and, specifically, London’s Barbican Centre, which dwarfs its visitors with its grandiose, looming scale, everything clicked into place.

Ervell built his name on a skinny silhouette, athletic inspirations, and unconventional materials, and those cornerstones of his artistic vision were all visible in the collection, albeit with new twists—billowing pants legs, a vivid ikat print, the return of the fleece that proved so divisive in his Spring 2015 collection. On a brutally cold day, Ervell made an overwhelmingly powerful case for dressing in layers, with turtlenecks under blazers that peeked out from beneath puffer vests or bomber jackets. The clothes, inspired by the same much-maligned architectural movement as the mise-en-scène, had an approachability and an appeal that Brutalist buildings can sometimes lack, pulling in with their pure designs and clean grace notes. One rubbery jacket in polyurethane-bonded leather featured the prominent placement of Ervell’s logo, a sharply stylized image of his last name stretching to fill the bounds of a pentagon, a design touch perfected over the last few seasons that spoke to just how important Ervell takes his every detail.

The show ended on a serious note, as the models paraded by again, illuminated only by the pale strips of neon (an effective way to prevent the ubiquitous blurry, diminishing finale shots that populate Instagram, perhaps). It was a tableau that was, if not exactly post-apocalyptic, at least a fitting reminder that clothes, at their most basic—and especially the strong designs Ervell showed here—are meant to protect us.

Patrik Ervell F/W 2015

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Betty Sze for models.com

pelk1

pe1.2

pebs

peya

peq

peg

pefg

pemvs

pedc

pego

pejm3

peha

peswco

peden

pemult

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | No Comments »

Public School F/W 2015

February 17th, 2015

31-50

Public School F/W 15

With a name like Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are automatically aligned with ideas about youth culture and streetwise kids. The duo’s design sensibilities have always veered towards an exploration of all things urbane and youthful, but fall found them tackling mature subjects, specifically the 90s and its vibrant club scene. Though the 90s are currently enjoying a relevance renaissance, it is an era when most Public School aficionados were still in diapers. Chow and Osborne remember it well enough to revisit decade’s high points without delving too deeply into nostalgia. Starting with a black pleated floor length skirt and hooded parka combo paired with Timberland-esque boots on Molly Bair, Chow and Osbourne built on their tradition of luxuriously reinterpreting urban staples. Baseball caps, oversized hoodies and layered shades of grey have been seen on the streets of New York for decades, but when Chow and Osborne present them it feels refreshing.

Girls and boys were treated to an array of luxe-sport looks delivered primarily in shades of slate, black and navy. Designers have been ditching color in favor of neutrals this season, but many of the show’s most interesting moments came via the interplay of pattern and color. An uncharacteristically girly hooded-coats on Taylor Hill and Ana Buljevic mixed shades of salmon, violet and blue to great effect. Flowing shirt dresses on Astrid Holler and Issa Lish provided a touch of romance, while Piero Mendez’s blue plaid, navy leather and shearling look was subtler but every bit as exciting. Given the growing popularity of Public School’s aesthetic and the label’s status as one of NYFW’s hot tickets we’re sure to be seeing these pieces hit the streets and the editorial pages soon.

Public School F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com

casey-vange-public-01

casey-vange-public-06

casey-vange-public-10

casey-vange-public-11

casey-vange-public-14

casey-vange-public-15

casey-vange-public-17

casey-vange-public-19

casey-vange-public-21

casey-vange-public-20

casey-vange-public-24

casey-vange-public-26

casey-vange-public-28

casey-vange-public-29

casey-vange-public-30

31-32

casey-vange-public-35

casey-vange-public-34

36-38

casey-vange-public-40

casey-vange-public-42

45-46

casey-vange-public-49

casey-vange-public-50

53-54

casey-vange-public-58

casey-vange-public-59

60-61

casey-vange-public-62

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Diesel Black Gold FW 2015 Menswear

January 19th, 2015

Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2015 Menswear

For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall-Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad presented a singular vision on the contrasting forces in British tradition. Harking back to England’s impeccable tailoring the collection offered a new take on it mixed with the irreverent, subversive influences of the UK’s iconic youth subcultures. Combining disparate elements including the brand’s iconic denim pieces with traditional fabrics – from military inspired and assertively masculine pieces to a reinterpretation of British school uniforms with a rebellious attitude – the collection offered signature outerwear pieces. Get a first look at the new collection in this exclusive Models.com show coverage shot by Dirk Alexander.

Follow Diesel Black Gold:
Web: www.dieselblackgold.com
Facebook: facebook.com/dieselblackgold
Instagram: instagram.com/dieselblackgold
Twitter: @dieselblackgold #DBGshow

Photography by Dirk Alexander for Models.com

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Exclusives, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | 3 Comments »

Jeremy Scott S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0003

Jeremy Scott S/S 2015

Social media reigned supreme at NYFW and if there was one collection ready to be Tweeted, Instagram-ed and Vine-d into oblivion it was Jeremy Scott’s. The always exciting Mr. Scott knows what his audience wants and he knows how to deliver it with pomp. Spring meant a spirited trip to Coachella or perhaps Woodstock, complete with psychedelic prints, flower crowns and the kinds of ‘look at me’ energy that has made the festival circuit a favorite of street style bloggers. Since Scott isn’t a designer prone to understatement, there was also a bombastic rave motif that unified the collection’s colorful, madcap separates. What look isn’t a little more fun when paired with candy necklaces and shiny Doc Martens? As always the clothes were only part of the story – Scott’s runway shows have become something of a NYC event and the commotion was heightened by the appearance of Ms. Twerk herself, Miley Cyrus. As the ultimate Scott devotee and patron saint to all in-your-face kids who will be lining up to get their hands on Shrek printed dresses and gold laminate hot pants, Cyrus fit right in with the spectacle.

Michael Kors S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com
Casting by Jennifer Starr
Styling by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele
Hair by Eugene Souleiman
Makeup by Kabuki

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0034

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0046

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0054

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0063

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0086

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0081

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0094

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0107

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0128

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0132

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0156

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0151

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0168

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0194

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0206

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0203

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0217

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0233

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0240

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0282

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0278

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0333

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0345

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0399

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0441

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0429

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0451

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0463

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0482

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0471

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0497

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0507

20140910_mdc_nyfw_0549

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Michael Kors S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014

IMG_8580

Michael Kors S/S 2015

With Maggie Rizer and Liisa Winkler appearing as looks one and two respectively, Michael Kors already had our attention via his cool throwback to 90s superstars. The fact that his ebullient spring collection was a nothing but the hits showcase for the designer’s best styles was simply an added bonus. Kors specializes in cheerful, All-American classics with a touch of luxury and for Spring he focused his attentions on flirty floral dresses and separates with a cutesy vibe. Men were treated to lightweight sweaters, loafers sans socks and nautical stripes. If these looks sound familiar it’s because these are fashion hallmarks guaranteed to never fall out of favor, or out of style. Michael Kors didn’t become president of fashion’s billionaire boys club by accident – it’s clear he knows just what he’s doing. Key looks included tulle skirts embellished with the glittering three dimensional flowers and hints of the season’s key fabric – gingham.

Michael Kors S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Julia Chesky for models.com
Casting by John Pfeiffer
Hair by Orlando Pita
Makeup by Dick Page (Jed Root)
Manicure by Jin Soon Choi (Jed Root)

IMG_8047

IMG_8506

IMG_8493

IMG_8513

IMG_8531

IMG_8527

IMG_8534

IMG_8544

IMG_8565

IMG_8575

IMG_8585

IMG_8587

IMG_8592

IMG_8589

IMG_8604

IMG_8599

IMG_8615

IMG_8611

IMG_8617

IMG_8624

IMG_8621

IMG_8626

IMG_8635

IMG_8630

IMG_8638

IMG_8644

IMG_8648

IMG_8653

IMG_8657

IMG_8666

IMG_8662

IMG_8671

IMG_8687

IMG_8692

IMG_8696

IMG_8698

IMG_8699

IMG_8705

IMG_8709

IMG_8707

IMG_8710

IMG_8718

IMG_8712

IMG_8721

IMG_8726

IMG_8722

IMG_8735

IMG_8744

IMG_8751

IMG_8748

IMG_8758

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Hugo Boss S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014

_MG_8233

Hugo Boss S/S 15

Since Jason Wu used his debut Hugo Boss collection to show that he can tailor with the best of them the designer took time to make Spring / Summer all about ease. No need to button up when you’re sporting as fetching a number as the geometric patterned opener on Abbey Lee Kershaw. Delivered in icy blue and paired with flat gladiator sandals the look kicked off an airy collection that was structured without ever feeling staid. Boss’ cutting expertise was put to good use on shirting inspired dresses, stark trenches and figure hugging pencil skirts. Much has been said about Boss’ menswear influence but this collection was fearlessly feminine. Pantsuits were pushed into the background as flirty shifts and eye-catching accessories came to the forefront. There was even a bit of knowing sensuality at work – the modern minis worn by models projected an air of strength and sex appeal without actually revealing much in the way of skin.

While the majority of the looks were fit for the a breezy weekends or a day spent in boardroom (an admirable feat given how few options women have for trend-conscious workwear) Wu found time to incorporate a series of appealing ensembles more suited to red carpets. One of Wu’s biggest assets as a designer is his innate understanding of glamour and for Boss he offers up a version of his signature that is skews serious yet every bit as stunning as his eponymous collection. When Leila Nda sauntered out in a matte black cocktail dress overlaid with a gauzy tulle the audience sighed in appreciation and Kinga Rajzak’s sorbet hued sequin covered look garnered an equally enthusiastic reaction. As wonderful as practical clothes can be nothing enraptures quite like a evening wear and Wu’s balance between the pomp and pragmatism is sure to win accolades across the board.

Hugo Boss S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for models.com

_MG_8254

_MG_8247

_MG_8274

_MG_8279

_MG_8291

_MG_8294

_MG_8305

_MG_8311

_MG_8333

_MG_8340

_MG_8344

_MG_8358

_MG_8370

_MG_8378

_MG_8387

_MG_8404

_MG_8418

_MG_8427

_MG_8434

_MG_8466

_MG_8473

_MG_8476

_MG_8488

_MG_8498

_MG_8505

_MG_8524

_MG_8532

_MG_8541

_MG_8557

_MG_8561

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Hood by Air S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014

454882416_10

Hood by Air S/S 2015

What does it mean to be a man in 2014? In an age where gender binary is a dated concept yet conventional norms still set the standard who gets to dictate what is and isn’t masculine? Those were the questions posed by Hood by Air’s spring showing, an intelligent and introspective dissertation on the masculine ego. Unlike most in fashion designer Shayne Oliver isn’t afraid to use his runway as a platform for a statement and the street smart looks that flitted down his runway were filled with subtle and overt ideas about gender, sexuality and race. You don’t feature logo covered shackles and bondage chokers on a runway without a nod to their complex connotations.

That said this was no somber, overly political downer – this was a lively and vibrant event show filled with the soulful melody of live singers and ebullient energy of an audience ready to be wowed. Oliver did not disappoint – with a confident vision and youthful insouciance he turned out look after sharp look. There was a wealth of denim, from shredded jeans fit for exhibitionists to head to toe acid washed looks that provided glimpses of sculpted torsos. Boyhood classics like Timberland boots and Nike Air Max were reimagined in HBA fashion, embellished with straps or glitter, and merged together into a compelling sneak-boot. Snoot? Beaker?

The fact that one has to search for new words to describe HBA speaks to Oliver’s imagination and unique perspective. In a business dominated by friends of friends and nepotism beneficiaries it takes new blood to shake the status quo. More than anything else that is what HBA is doing – with their vibrant shows, diverse cast, and general attitude Oliver and co are changing the game and for the better.

Hood by Air S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by All images by By: Victor Virgile / Gamma-Rapho / Getty Images
Casting by Kegan Webb

454857444_10

454857422_10

454857464_10

454882384_10

454882386_10

454882412_10

454882420_10

454882450_10

454882446_10

454882458_10

454882460_10

454882480_10

454882492_10

454882498_10

454882510_10

454882532_10

454882548_10

454882538_10

454882564_10

454882582_10

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014

_MG_6893

Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

Given the rampant commercialism of NYFW it is rare to see a brand go beyond the typical show or presentation. This penchant for the straightforward makes every bit of experimentation all the more invigorating and Eckhaus Latta took the opportunity to treat viewers to an experience that was unexpected. The city block spanning line just to get into the Eckhaus Latta presentation was a testament to how hungry fashion followers are for something new, exciting and innovative. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta rose to the occasion and their Dada meets denim collection of unconventional pieces offered a much needed respite from the typical. With a lettuce covered catwalk and choir chanting in the background Eckhaus and Latta played with our expectations for blue jeans. The all-American staple gets a bad rep for being mundane, but the design duo kept things cool with oversized tarp jeans, skirts embellished with visible pockets long enough to graze the thighs and wild shoes that appeared to consist of one 80s trainer stacked on top of another. With a cast that spanned all ages, all sexes and all races the collection boasted an inclusive feel that was heightened by the finale’s spirited performance. If you’ve ever felt locked out of the artsy inner circle Eckhaus Latta proved that weird and wonderful is for everybody.

Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for models.com

_MG_6901

_MG_6920_6923

_MG_6925

_MG_6935

_MG_6938

_MG_6945

_MG_6957_6960

_MG_6964

_MG_6976

_MG_6980

_MG_6990

_MG_6995

_MG_7002

_MG_7016_7020

_MG_7028

_MG_7040

_MG_7050

_MG_7059

_MG_7067_7076

_MG_7085

_MG_7091

_MG_7098_7111

_MG_7119

_MG_7129

_MG_7137

_MG_7140

_MG_7142

_MG_7148

_MG_7149

_MG_7161

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Public School S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014

_MG_6619

Public School S/S 2015

Time to get graphic! Post-CFDA win Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne go greyscale with a collection of high contrast black and white looks for men and women. The restrained color palette allowed Chow & Osbourne to focus on printed embellishments, covering the collection’s most compelling looks with chaotic prints that merged into an energetic mix and match. Given the appealing simplicity of most of the wares the entire affair seemed made for blending. Girls could borrow a bit of the menswear, adventurous boys might find themselves drawn to the striking womenswear pieces and so on so forth. Modern dressing is all about freeing oneself from boundaries – a fact Chow & Osbourne get and execute with increasing ease on their runway. As chic as the black and white looked (especially when paired with jaunty Karakul hats) color is always welcome on a spring runway. The brief pops of inky blue served to enliven the collection and sate buyers need for brights.

Public School S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for models.com

_MG_6639_6645

_MG_6626

_MG_6654

_MG_6657

_MG_6672

_MG_6675

_MG_6683

_MG_6699

_MG_6708

_MG_6704

_MG_6719

_MG_6722

_MG_6729

_MG_6746_6748

_MG_6734

_MG_6767

_MG_6773_6781

_MG_6795

_MG_6788

_MG_6804

_MG_6806_6811

_MG_6825

_MG_6821

_MG_6842

_MG_6855

_MG_6867

_MG_6877

_MG_6886

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear, Womenswear | No Comments »

Billy Reid S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014

_MG_6151

Billy Reid S/S 2015

There has always been a certain timelessness to Billy Reid’s designs, pieces that speak to a bygone era of Southern gentlemen updated for a 21st-century sensibility. For Spring 2015, presented alongside Bloody Marys and the usual live accompaniment in the soaring hall of the High Line Hotel, he worked with a wealth of new fabrics and a looser fit for a relaxed feel that was comfortable and casual without being sloppy (something no one would ever dare accuse Reid of). There were some surprisingly thick fabrics for a Spring collection, but they were worked with a sense of lightness, from the billowing tunics and long shirts to the baggy shorts that hit below the knee. The palette, appropriately for an Alabama man who aims to avoid the feel of anything too “fashion,” was a range of soft pastels, comforting and warm, with a few engaging prints reminiscent of textile patterns. The shapes were a new development for Reid, but still just right for the guy who wants to look good without looking like he’s trying too hard.

Billy Reid S/S 2015

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Billy Rood for models.com

_MG_6156

_MG_6165

_MG_6177

_MG_6193

_MG_6200

_MG_6210

_MG_6215

_MG_6222

_MG_6234

_MG_6242

_MG_6251

_MG_6256

_MG_6271

_MG_6278

_MG_6296

_MG_6299

_MG_6309

_MG_6313

_MG_6322

_MG_6329

_MG_6339

_MG_6348

_MG_6352

_MG_6358

_MG_6365

_MG_6377

_MG_6381

_MG_6386

_MG_6397

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | No Comments »

Siki Im S/S 15

September 7th, 2014

IMG_5271_1280W-2

Siki Im S/S 2015

Born in Germany to Korean parents, the designer Siki Im has always had an innate ability to combine two halves into a greater whole. For Spring 2015, that dichotomy melded the robotic and the romantic in a collection aptly titled “Human/Machine.” The mood board backstage was a study of contrasts, with schematics of robot toys pinned above fluttering sheets of tie-dye, their prominent wrinkles a clear reminder of handmade craftsmanship. The result was a mixture of sturdy shapes and all-too-human imperfections, reflected in the irreproducible tie-dye prints, the frayed edges, the uneven stripes, the mismatched footwear.

Im has always brought a weighty intellectualism to his designs, and it’s not for nothing that his show notes include both a syllabus and a list of references—which in this case ranged from Wall-E and Walter Benjamin to George Orwell and Futurist founder F.T. Marinetti. But what sets Im apart from other designers who casually toss off the names of great thinkers and artists as inspirations is both his rigor and his sense of human frailty, which keep his designs from feeling overly academic. Im’s latest collection faces a fashion industry—and a world—that is changing, thanks to technology, at the speed of light, and asks not just what we should be wearing, but why we will continue to wear it. But this wasn’t a case of future shock—the clothes were not sci-fi pastiches, but rather a plea for human connection. There were softly swinging coats, rustling tunics, and flowing trousers. When they stripped down for the finale, the models were left bare chested, present and forceful in all their vulnerability.

Siki Im S/S 2015
Stylist: David Vandewal
Hair: James Pecis (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Makeup: Benjamin Puckey (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Casting: John Tan

Review: Jonathan Shia

Backstage photos by Betty Sze
Runway photos by Kirt Reynolds

IMG_5264_1280W

IMG_5260_1280W

IMG_5288_1280W

IMG_5279_1280W

IMG_5289_1280W

IMG_5311_1280W-2

IMG_5341_1280W

IMG_5343_1280W

IMG_5368_1280W

IMG_5378_1280W

IMG_5386_1280W

 

IMG_5427_1280W-2

IMG_5404_1280W

IMG_5445_1280W-2

IMG_5447_1280W-2

IMG_5462_1280W

IMG_5475_1280W-4

paul.kendall

sean.declanIMG_8342_1280W

IMG_8350_1280W

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | No Comments »

Future Faces

July 11th, 2014

Future Faces

Paris is, in many ways, a fitting end to the European show season, a city of beauty, history, and many of fashion’s biggest brands. For most models, it marks the culmination of nearly a month on the road, of endless days of castings, fittings, and miles and miles of travel from show to presentation and back. The runway veterans have the game figured out, but for the crop of new faces every season, the learning curve can be sharp. We found time with seven of our favorite new stars who’ve made an impact on the catwalks at the Spring 2015 shows, proving that inexperience is no burden to success. Our picks, shot over the final weekend of Paris Fashion Week by Dirk Alexander with styling by Adele Cany, range from brand-new boys who were scouted just weeks ago to a few more-experienced guys who had breakout seasons this time around. What they all have in common, however, is a fresh-faced excitement about their new prominence in the industry, along with clear eyes set on the possibilities that lie ahead.

Text by Jonathan Shia
Photography by Dirk Alexander
Styling by Adele Cany @ Angela De Bona NYC
Hair by Jean Baptiste Santens
Grooming by Virginie Rascle
Casting by Jonathan Shia and Betty Sze

02_Sang_Mats

LEFT: Sang Woo Kim wearing 22/4

RIGHT: Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and sweatshirt by Kenzo

Sang Woo Kim, 20, London
Even after dabbling in the fashion world with an internship at Prada in Korea and modeling stints for his classmates during his time in a foundation course at Central Saint Martins last year, Kim says his rapid introduction to the industry was like “being thrown into the deep end.” “My first job, the Stone Island campaign, was a week after my first shoot,” he says, “and I had no idea what was going on.” Still, the painter and fine-arts student has quickly found his feet, walking for DKNY, Dries Van Noten, DSquared2, Neil Barrett, and Dolce & Gabbana in his first full season. “It was amazing,” he says of the experience. “Being a skinny Asian boy, Milan was written-off, so doing four shows there was a dream. It’s been a great season.”

03_Mihai

Mihai Bran wearing ROC LINE

Mihai Bran, 19, Romania
After being discovered on Facebook two-and-a-half years ago, Bran spent several seasons working for Roberto Cavalli and Ermenegildo Zegna without making many waves on the runway. He credits his stellar success this season—during which he popped up everywhere from Topman and Gucci to Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, with an opening slot at Hermès and a closing look at Dries Van Noten—to a newly trim physique and optimistic diligence. “You always have to be patient,” he says, “and I don’t mind being patient. I’m happy just being on option because they saw me and noticed me, but I’m not depressed if I don’t get the job.”

04_Sven

Sven de Vries wearing Berluti

Sven de Vries, 19, the Netherlands
A lot can happen in only five weeks. Just ask de Vries, who consistently returns to the word “unimaginable” to describe his whirlwind month since being scouted on a street in London during a school trip. A Prada exclusive led to runway turns at Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, and Y-3, each one bringing a fresh set of experiences. “When you’re on the catwalk, you get loads of adrenaline, and you feel so good,” he explains. The budding photographer and filmmaker says he looks forward to taking the opportunity to learn what it’s like to be in front of the camera for a change. “It’s really helpful for me to be on the other side of the lens,” he says, “so I can watch the photographer as a model and learn how to communicate better with the people I’m working with. It’s helping me grow as a person.”

05_Mihai_Rhys

LEFT: Mihai Bran wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and shirt by Missoni

RIGHT: Rhys Pickering wearing Maison Kitsuné

06_Marc

Marc Schulze wearing Kenzo

Marc Schulze, 19, Berlin
For Schulze, you could say the third time’s a charm. After originally being rejected by his mother agency and then spending two years mostly off the radar, the Berliner has made a splash this season, appearing at JW Anderson, Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior Homme, Raf Simons, and Y-3. “Before this year, I did two seasons in two years,” he laughs. “You can’t really call that modeling.” Schulze is still wide-eyed at his sudden success, saying the highlight of his season was “just being good enough” to walk for Prada and Dior Homme. Still, the avid gamer—he cites League of Legends as a special favorite—recognizes the privileges he has and is more than ready to take full advantage of them. “At my age, none of my friends get to see as much of the world as I do,” he says, “so I love that.”

07_Rhys_Sang

LEFT: Rhys Pickering wearing Carven

RIGHT: Sang Woo Kim wearing jacket by 22/4

08_Mihai_Mats

LEFT: Mihai Bran wearing ROC LINE

RIGHT: Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and sweatshirt by Kenzo

09_Bram

Bram Valbracht wearing sweater by Maison Kitsuné, pants by Carven, and beanie by Kenzo

Bram Valbracht, 18, the Netherlands
When Valbracht was scouted on the street in Amsterdam a few weeks ago, he says his first thought was of reality TV. “Because of the show I Can Make You a Supermodel, I was like, ‘What is this? Am I going to have to be on camera?’” Instead, he was tossed straight into show season, walking for Prada, Neil Barrett, and Salvatore Ferragamo in Milan and Carven and Louis Vuitton in Paris. “It feels weird, because it’s not about how much effort you put into it,” he says about his new job. “You just have to be yourself.” Now in his gap year, Valbracht says he is ready for anything modeling may throw at him. “I already planned to take a year to go to a foreign country and learn the language,” he says, “and then this came on my path, so I will see what I will do now.”

10_Sven_MarcNEW

LEFT: Sven de Vries wearing Berluti

RIGHT: Marc Schulze wearing sweatshirt by ROC LINE, pants by Kenzo, and shoes by Adieu

11_Rhys

Rhys Pickering wearing jacket by Carven

Rhys Pickering, 19, Middlesbrough, England
Newcomers looking to build up their social media clout could take a page from Pickering, whose fifty-five thousand Twitter followers outnumber those of many established veterans. “Once you get a following, people start to see you and then you just get more exposure and it kind of snowballs from there,” he explains. A former resident of Dubai, the young filmmaker was discovered while tending bar for a family friend earlier this year, then quickly shipped off to Barcelona before booking a Prada exclusive and opening and closing Louis Vuitton. “I tried on two looks at Louis Vuitton and as [stylist Alister Mackie] was checking everything, he said, ‘What does it feel like having this responsibility?’ I couldn’t fathom what he was talking about, and then he told me I was opening and closing and I was absolutely gobsmacked,” he says. “It was absolutely amazing, and I don’t think I’ll experience anything more exhilarating than that ever.”

12_Sang_Marc

LEFT: Sang Woo Kim wearing 22/4

RIGHT: Marc Schulze wearing ROC LINE

13_Mats

Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Kenzo and t-shirt by Carven

Mats van Snippenberg, 16, the Netherlands
Of all the fresh young faces at the Spring 2015, few were fresher than van Snippenberg, still with a year left of high school and discovered on the street just this past King’s Day in April. After a few test shoots, he was off for fashion season, with a run that started with Topman and JW Anderson in London and included Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, and Carven. “It’s really awesome how fast it goes,” he says. “My first thought was, ‘Am I going to book a lot of shows?’ Then I got all these confirmations, and it was crazy because they were great brands. You walk one show for Prada and then the next one asks you to come and it keeps going.”

14_Sven_Bram

LEFT: Sven de Vries wearing sweater and pants by Berluti and shirt by Maison Kitsuné

RIGHT: Bram Valbracht wearing sweater by Maison Kitsuné

Special thanks to Bérix Enesa at Bananas (Paris), Maryline at THE FACE (Paris), Maria Ianniello at Elite Milan (Milan), Magali Gless at M MANAGEMENT MEN (Paris), Celia Martinez at Major Paris (Paris), Jérôme Alcantara at Marilyn Agency (Paris), Gaëtan Flamanc at Premium Models (Paris), and Cesar Perin at Unsigned MGMT.

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Features, Menswear | 22 Comments »

Best of British

June 17th, 2014

MDX-intro-bestofbrits

Best of British

London has always served as fashion’s source for innovative design, especially where menswear is concerned. The boundary-pushing local scene pulses with energy and a sartorial fearlessness that values creativity over constraint. As the London menswear collections head into full swing this week, take a look at 20 of the moment’s biggest male models clad in the very best British fashion has to offer. From high street favorites like TopMan and Whistles to luxury standards Burberry Prorsum and Alexander McQueen, all sides of the London look are represented. The ensembles are brought to life by the dashing cast in George Harvey’s black and white portrait series. The elegant images pair up star models with the most essential labels around and prove that it’s the clothes that make the man.

Text by Janelle Okwodu

Photographer: George Harvey for Models.com
Stylist: Julian Ganio
Casting and Production: Holly Hay
Hair: Nao Kawakami and Jessie HS Lim
Photography assistants: Adam Slama, Andrew Goss and Rufai Ajala
Styling assistants: Ogun Gortan, Nic Larsen and Max Voloshin

Special thanks: Shoreditch Studios and 123 Lighting

Ben Waters wearing Burberry Prorsum

Charlie James wearing Martine Rose

Glen Abrantes wearing Sibling

Robbie McKinnon wearing Topman Design

Ted Le Sueur wearing JW Anderson

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Features, Menswear, Parallax | 5 Comments »

Color Blocking

April 10th, 2014

ColorBlocking-MDX

Color Blocking

In a Spring season awash in rich colors, few designers pulled them off with quite the aplomb of Christopher Bailey, who showed an endless variety of rich primaries and pale pastels in a Burberry men’s collection inspired by England’s vibrant cultural history, specifically the twin heavyweights of painter David Hockney and author Alan Bennett. The inspiration was an especially apt one, a celebration of two brilliant artistic geniuses for a house that has long been the epitome of all things British, finally showing back at home in London for the first time after over a decade of men’s shows in Milan. The rich, painterly colors—reminiscent of Hockney’s vivid portraits and pool paintings—inspired photographer Tetsu Kubota for this Models.com exclusive editorial, starring Burberry favorites Tommaso de Benedictis and Anders Hayward in the collection’s clean, sharp pieces styled by Grant Woolhead. Captured in quiet stillness amongst the swirls of color, de Benedictis and Hayward—students of, respectively, art history and contemporary dance—bring just the right artistic spirit to Bailey’s gorgeous, luminous designs.

Written by Jonathan Shia

Photography by Tetsu Kubota (BRIDGE Artists) for Models.com
Style by Grant Woolhead
Hair: Eric Jamieson (BRIDGE Artists)
Makeup: Aya Komatsu (De Facto)
Production & creative direction: Kegan Webb

Models:
Tommaso de Benedictis @ Tomorrow Is Another Day
Anders Hayward @ Wilhelmina

Photographer’s Assistant: Hayato Sakurai
Stylist’s Assistant: Adam Jensen
Digital Tech: Tomonori Iwata

20140221_Models.com_Shot01_027

20140221_Models.com_Shot05_065

20140221_Models.com_Shot02_021

20140221_Models.com_Shot04_012

20140221_Models.com_Shot08_031

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Features, Menswear | 2 Comments »

Siki Im F/W 14

February 12th, 2014

IMG_3136_1280W

Siki Im
Fall / Winter
2014

The menswear designer Siki Im has always had a compelling artistic bent, one that he took to new heights with his Fall 2014 collection, which was inspired by the avant-garde cultural and artistic movements of the Seventies. The clothes—nearly all black or shades of gray—had a rigorous power to them, and there was a slight Germanic feel to many of the designs, like Paul Boche’s strong leather biker jacket or Anders Hayward’s double-breasted blazer that splayed open at the bottom. The main material was wool, whether in thick weaves like Chris Beek’s ribbed robe or the raw felt—inspired by the Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys—that gave heft to Abel van Oeveren’s peacoat. There was a strong, elegant outerwear component as well, one that proved that Im’s thoughts were not just focused on the provocative youths of the period. Félix Gesnouin’s fur-collared overcoat had a classic Old World flair, and Yu Fangqing’s coat had a speckled look that was appropriately called “noise.” Im also, as is his wont, stretched the limits of the fashion show into performance art of a sort, as the illustrator Richard Haines, well-known for his runway sketches, took to several of the pieces backstage with white pastel, chalking faces, hands, and other figures onto the sturdy designs. A hand stretched playfully across the pocket of Miles Langford’s bomber jacket, an arm reached down the sleeve of Kristoffer Hasslevall’s blazer, and a face loomed from the back of Laurie Harding’s oversized coat. Watching Haines at work backstage, as he sketched closing model Adam Butcher’s hunched-over figure onto the back of a jacket, served as a powerful reminder that, for the most creative designers, the clothes you see coming down the runway reveal but a small fraction of the thought and effort that went into them.

Designer Siki Im
Styling by David Vandewal
Hair by James Pecis (London: D + V Management , New York: D + V Management)
Makeup by Benjamin Puckey (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Casting by John Tan

Siki Im Fall/Winter 2014

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Betty Sze

IMG_3006_1280W

robertyuri

IMG_2993_1280W

IMG_2986_1280W

IMG_3074_1280W

IMG_2979_1280W

lucayu

IMG_3063_1280W

IMG_3037_1280W

IMG_3017_1280W

IMG_3120_1280W-2

IMG_3032_1280W

IMG_3041_1280W

IMG_3046_1280W

IMG_3075_1280W

IMG_3096_1280W

IMG_3121_1280W

IMG_3128_1280W

IMG_3129_1280W

IMG_3130_1280W

IMG_3141_1280W

IMG_3154_1280W

IMG_3159_1280W

IMG_3164_1280W

IMG_3178_1280W

IMG_3172_1280W

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | 1 Comment »

Siki Im S/S 14

September 18th, 2013

IMG_0070_1280W

Siki Im SS14

Siki Im has never been one to shy away from the darker sides of masculinity, and he put his penchant for progressive design to good use for Spring 2014, riffing on prison and hospital uniforms in a collection that bristled with tense energy. A quote from Crime and Punishment served as one starting point for Im’s pieces, while Alix Lambert’s stark documentary Mark of Cain, about Russian prison tattoos, was another. These inspirations resulted in a clean palette of grays and pale blue and rose, washed out as if viewed under faintly flickering fluorescent lights. Im worked with a looser silhouette, which he said came from the wider proportions of prison uniforms (which, he noted, ironically “suggest easiness and defy restriction”), and the models padded about the parking garage where the show took place in soft paper slippers, which gave them an oddly menacing air while at the same time seeming to take away from their power. There was a cleanness to the designs, from Andrew Westermann’s unadorned jumpsuit to Ian Sharp’s unconstructed blazer over harem pants. For the finale, the boys came out wrapped in various nylon constructions that had a sterile purity, serving as an embodiment of the lightness of redemption as contrasted, in Im’s own deeply philosophical terms, with the “heavy, confining quality of remorse.”

Text by Jonathan Shia
Images: Backstage by Betty Sze / Runway by Kirt Reynolds for Models.com

IMG_0076_1280W

IMG_0086_1280W

combosi

IMG_0100_1280W

IMG_0113_1280W

IMG_0117_1280W-1.1

IMG_0157_1280W

IMG_0166_1280W

IMG_0169_1280W

IMG_0174_1280W

IMG_0185_1280W

IMG_0189_1280W

IMG_0196_1280W

IMG_0198_1280W

IMG_0193_1280W

IMG_0230_1280W

IMG_0241_1280W

IMG_0275_1280W

IMG_0016

IMG_0032

IMG_0040

IMG_0081

IMG_0091

IMG_0192

IMG_0223

IMG_0380

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | 2 Comments »

Duckie Brown S/S 14

September 17th, 2013

IMG_0259

Duckie Brown SS14

There was a certain cleanliness to Duckie Brown’s Spring 2014 collection, which eschewed the designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s earlier penchant for loud prints and colors for a concise study of shape and proportion in a clean palette of mostly black and white and gray. Adonis Bosso’s smooth long overcoat had a timeless appeal, as did Robert Laby’s cream polo shirt, which had outsize proportions that felt fresh and very modern. A strong graphic vision was introduced with the barcode stripes that ran up Alexander Beck’s coat and Duncan Proctor’s jacket, while Cox and Silver tipped their hat at their gender-bending proclivities with a pair of halterneck tunics. Many of the pieces had an aesthetic purity, with extraneous details stripped away for a minimalist look that still pushed the boundaries. Miles Langford’s varsity jacket was a perfect example, free of all decoration, but with widened sleeves that added a twist, especially when paired with shorts that bordered on sheer. The pair pushed a bit more outré with their final looks, including a selection of intricately patterned jackets and several items that had a engagingly nubby texture, as in Collin Tennant’s wide tee worn over shimmery silver shorts. It was a fitting conclusion that closed out a determined show with some appropriately imaginative new ideas.

Designer: Steven Cox & Daniel Silver for Duckie Brown
Casting: Clare Rhodes
Text by Jonathan Shia
Images: Backstage by Kirt Reynolds / Runway by Billy Rood (Both for Models.com)

IMG_0238

IMG_0126

IMG_0093

combo1

_MG_0164

_MG_0194_MG_0211

_MG_0222

_MG_0249

_MG_0269

_MG_0280

_MG_0295_MG_0310

combo2

_MG_0344

_MG_0366

_MG_0383

_MG_0390

_MG_0399

_MG_0407

combo3

_MG_0433

_MG_0478

_MG_0486

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | No Comments »

Raf Simons Men S/S 14

June 28th, 2013

7Z7B9280

Raf Simons S/S 14

Raf Simons may be best-known today for breathing new life into Dior with his sculptural shapes and intricate florals, but a look at the evolving aesthetic of his own men’s line offers vibrant proof of his multivalent abilities. Once regarded as an arch-minimalist (cf. his years at Jil Sander), Simons has in recent seasons pushed in a more playful direction. Spring 2014 saw him bringing in a Pop Art sensibility, emblazoning his shifts with vintage-style product logos advertising “super nylon” and the “new shape of comfort.” There was a youthful looseness to the collection, with swinging overcoats and baggy tops that drifted halfway down the thigh. Still, the silhouettes had a certain rigor to them, as in the smooth lines of Kristoffer Hasslevall’s denim coat, paired with slim trousers and candy-colored sneakers, or Alexander Ferrario’s crisp navy trench. Yannick Abrath’s forest green onesie was cinched with a striped belt, adding a bit of form to a show that otherwise surged with the bounding energy of youth and freedom and a certain naïveté.

Text by Jonathan Shia
Images by Lea Colombo for Models.com

7Z7B9303

7Z7B9367

7Z7B9390

7Z7B9425

7Z7B9449

7Z7B9474

7Z7B9486

7Z7B9497_1

7Z7B9573

7Z7B9583

7Z7B9592

7Z7B9612

7Z7B9632

7Z7B9657

7Z7B9667

7Z7B9669

7Z7B9708

7Z7B9544_1

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | 8 Comments »