Archive for the 'Menswear' Category

Patrik Ervell F/W 15

February 18th, 2015


Patrik Ervell F/W 15

As guests filed into the runway space at Milk Studios for Patrik Ervell’s Fall 2015 show late Monday afternoon, they were greeted by the soft glow of neon, which lined several freestanding set pieces in harsh concrete, a collection of graphic planters, steps, and sharp angles that had a backward-looking sense of the future—or, perhaps, a forward-looking sense of the past. When the designer explained that the design was inspired by Brutalist architecture and, specifically, London’s Barbican Centre, which dwarfs its visitors with its grandiose, looming scale, everything clicked into place.

Ervell built his name on a skinny silhouette, athletic inspirations, and unconventional materials, and those cornerstones of his artistic vision were all visible in the collection, albeit with new twists—billowing pants legs, a vivid ikat print, the return of the fleece that proved so divisive in his Spring 2015 collection. On a brutally cold day, Ervell made an overwhelmingly powerful case for dressing in layers, with turtlenecks under blazers that peeked out from beneath puffer vests or bomber jackets. The clothes, inspired by the same much-maligned architectural movement as the mise-en-scène, had an approachability and an appeal that Brutalist buildings can sometimes lack, pulling in with their pure designs and clean grace notes. One rubbery jacket in polyurethane-bonded leather featured the prominent placement of Ervell’s logo, a sharply stylized image of his last name stretching to fill the bounds of a pentagon, a design touch perfected over the last few seasons that spoke to just how important Ervell takes his every detail.

The show ended on a serious note, as the models paraded by again, illuminated only by the pale strips of neon (an effective way to prevent the ubiquitous blurry, diminishing finale shots that populate Instagram, perhaps). It was a tableau that was, if not exactly post-apocalyptic, at least a fitting reminder that clothes, at their most basic—and especially the strong designs Ervell showed here—are meant to protect us.

Patrik Ervell F/W 2015

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Betty Sze for
















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Public School F/W 2015

February 17th, 2015


Public School F/W 15

With a name like Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are automatically aligned with ideas about youth culture and streetwise kids. The duo’s design sensibilities have always veered towards an exploration of all things urbane and youthful, but fall found them tackling mature subjects, specifically the 90s and its vibrant club scene. Though the 90s are currently enjoying a relevance renaissance, it is an era when most Public School aficionados were still in diapers. Chow and Osborne remember it well enough to revisit decade’s high points without delving too deeply into nostalgia. Starting with a black pleated floor length skirt and hooded parka combo paired with Timberland-esque boots on Molly Bair, Chow and Osbourne built on their tradition of luxuriously reinterpreting urban staples. Baseball caps, oversized hoodies and layered shades of grey have been seen on the streets of New York for decades, but when Chow and Osborne present them it feels refreshing.

Girls and boys were treated to an array of luxe-sport looks delivered primarily in shades of slate, black and navy. Designers have been ditching color in favor of neutrals this season, but many of the show’s most interesting moments came via the interplay of pattern and color. An uncharacteristically girly hooded-coats on Taylor Hill and Ana Buljevic mixed shades of salmon, violet and blue to great effect. Flowing shirt dresses on Astrid Holler and Issa Lish provided a touch of romance, while Piero Mendez’s blue plaid, navy leather and shearling look was subtler but every bit as exciting. Given the growing popularity of Public School’s aesthetic and the label’s status as one of NYFW’s hot tickets we’re sure to be seeing these pieces hit the streets and the editorial pages soon.

Public School F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for






























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Diesel Black Gold FW 2015 Menswear

January 19th, 2015

Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2015 Menswear

For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall-Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad presented a singular vision on the contrasting forces in British tradition. Harking back to England’s impeccable tailoring the collection offered a new take on it mixed with the irreverent, subversive influences of the UK’s iconic youth subcultures. Combining disparate elements including the brand’s iconic denim pieces with traditional fabrics – from military inspired and assertively masculine pieces to a reinterpretation of British school uniforms with a rebellious attitude – the collection offered signature outerwear pieces. Get a first look at the new collection in this exclusive show coverage shot by Dirk Alexander.

Follow Diesel Black Gold:
Twitter: @dieselblackgold #DBGshow

Photography by Dirk Alexander for

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Jeremy Scott S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014


Jeremy Scott S/S 2015

Social media reigned supreme at NYFW and if there was one collection ready to be Tweeted, Instagram-ed and Vine-d into oblivion it was Jeremy Scott’s. The always exciting Mr. Scott knows what his audience wants and he knows how to deliver it with pomp. Spring meant a spirited trip to Coachella or perhaps Woodstock, complete with psychedelic prints, flower crowns and the kinds of ‘look at me’ energy that has made the festival circuit a favorite of street style bloggers. Since Scott isn’t a designer prone to understatement, there was also a bombastic rave motif that unified the collection’s colorful, madcap separates. What look isn’t a little more fun when paired with candy necklaces and shiny Doc Martens? As always the clothes were only part of the story – Scott’s runway shows have become something of a NYC event and the commotion was heightened by the appearance of Ms. Twerk herself, Miley Cyrus. As the ultimate Scott devotee and patron saint to all in-your-face kids who will be lining up to get their hands on Shrek printed dresses and gold laminate hot pants, Cyrus fit right in with the spectacle.

Michael Kors S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for
Casting by Jennifer Starr
Styling by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele
Hair by Eugene Souleiman
Makeup by Kabuki


































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Michael Kors S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014


Michael Kors S/S 2015

With Maggie Rizer and Liisa Winkler appearing as looks one and two respectively, Michael Kors already had our attention via his cool throwback to 90s superstars. The fact that his ebullient spring collection was a nothing but the hits showcase for the designer’s best styles was simply an added bonus. Kors specializes in cheerful, All-American classics with a touch of luxury and for Spring he focused his attentions on flirty floral dresses and separates with a cutesy vibe. Men were treated to lightweight sweaters, loafers sans socks and nautical stripes. If these looks sound familiar it’s because these are fashion hallmarks guaranteed to never fall out of favor, or out of style. Michael Kors didn’t become president of fashion’s billionaire boys club by accident – it’s clear he knows just what he’s doing. Key looks included tulle skirts embellished with the glittering three dimensional flowers and hints of the season’s key fabric – gingham.

Michael Kors S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Julia Chesky for
Casting by John Pfeiffer
Hair by Orlando Pita
Makeup by Dick Page (Jed Root)
Manicure by Jin Soon Choi (Jed Root)




















































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Hugo Boss S/S 2015

September 15th, 2014


Hugo Boss S/S 15

Since Jason Wu used his debut Hugo Boss collection to show that he can tailor with the best of them the designer took time to make Spring / Summer all about ease. No need to button up when you’re sporting as fetching a number as the geometric patterned opener on Abbey Lee Kershaw. Delivered in icy blue and paired with flat gladiator sandals the look kicked off an airy collection that was structured without ever feeling staid. Boss’ cutting expertise was put to good use on shirting inspired dresses, stark trenches and figure hugging pencil skirts. Much has been said about Boss’ menswear influence but this collection was fearlessly feminine. Pantsuits were pushed into the background as flirty shifts and eye-catching accessories came to the forefront. There was even a bit of knowing sensuality at work – the modern minis worn by models projected an air of strength and sex appeal without actually revealing much in the way of skin.

While the majority of the looks were fit for the a breezy weekends or a day spent in boardroom (an admirable feat given how few options women have for trend-conscious workwear) Wu found time to incorporate a series of appealing ensembles more suited to red carpets. One of Wu’s biggest assets as a designer is his innate understanding of glamour and for Boss he offers up a version of his signature that is skews serious yet every bit as stunning as his eponymous collection. When Leila Nda sauntered out in a matte black cocktail dress overlaid with a gauzy tulle the audience sighed in appreciation and Kinga Rajzak’s sorbet hued sequin covered look garnered an equally enthusiastic reaction. As wonderful as practical clothes can be nothing enraptures quite like a evening wear and Wu’s balance between the pomp and pragmatism is sure to win accolades across the board.

Hugo Boss S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for































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Hood by Air S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014


Hood by Air S/S 2015

What does it mean to be a man in 2014? In an age where gender binary is a dated concept yet conventional norms still set the standard who gets to dictate what is and isn’t masculine? Those were the questions posed by Hood by Air’s spring showing, an intelligent and introspective dissertation on the masculine ego. Unlike most in fashion designer Shayne Oliver isn’t afraid to use his runway as a platform for a statement and the street smart looks that flitted down his runway were filled with subtle and overt ideas about gender, sexuality and race. You don’t feature logo covered shackles and bondage chokers on a runway without a nod to their complex connotations.

That said this was no somber, overly political downer – this was a lively and vibrant event show filled with the soulful melody of live singers and ebullient energy of an audience ready to be wowed. Oliver did not disappoint – with a confident vision and youthful insouciance he turned out look after sharp look. There was a wealth of denim, from shredded jeans fit for exhibitionists to head to toe acid washed looks that provided glimpses of sculpted torsos. Boyhood classics like Timberland boots and Nike Air Max were reimagined in HBA fashion, embellished with straps or glitter, and merged together into a compelling sneak-boot. Snoot? Beaker?

The fact that one has to search for new words to describe HBA speaks to Oliver’s imagination and unique perspective. In a business dominated by friends of friends and nepotism beneficiaries it takes new blood to shake the status quo. More than anything else that is what HBA is doing – with their vibrant shows, diverse cast, and general attitude Oliver and co are changing the game and for the better.

Hood by Air S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by All images by By: Victor Virgile / Gamma-Rapho / Getty Images
Casting by Kegan Webb





















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Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014


Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

Given the rampant commercialism of NYFW it is rare to see a brand go beyond the typical show or presentation. This penchant for the straightforward makes every bit of experimentation all the more invigorating and Eckhaus Latta took the opportunity to treat viewers to an experience that was unexpected. The city block spanning line just to get into the Eckhaus Latta presentation was a testament to how hungry fashion followers are for something new, exciting and innovative. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta rose to the occasion and their Dada meets denim collection of unconventional pieces offered a much needed respite from the typical. With a lettuce covered catwalk and choir chanting in the background Eckhaus and Latta played with our expectations for blue jeans. The all-American staple gets a bad rep for being mundane, but the design duo kept things cool with oversized tarp jeans, skirts embellished with visible pockets long enough to graze the thighs and wild shoes that appeared to consist of one 80s trainer stacked on top of another. With a cast that spanned all ages, all sexes and all races the collection boasted an inclusive feel that was heightened by the finale’s spirited performance. If you’ve ever felt locked out of the artsy inner circle Eckhaus Latta proved that weird and wonderful is for everybody.

Eckhaus Latta S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for































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Public School S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014


Public School S/S 2015

Time to get graphic! Post-CFDA win Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne go greyscale with a collection of high contrast black and white looks for men and women. The restrained color palette allowed Chow & Osbourne to focus on printed embellishments, covering the collection’s most compelling looks with chaotic prints that merged into an energetic mix and match. Given the appealing simplicity of most of the wares the entire affair seemed made for blending. Girls could borrow a bit of the menswear, adventurous boys might find themselves drawn to the striking womenswear pieces and so on so forth. Modern dressing is all about freeing oneself from boundaries – a fact Chow & Osbourne get and execute with increasing ease on their runway. As chic as the black and white looked (especially when paired with jaunty Karakul hats) color is always welcome on a spring runway. The brief pops of inky blue served to enliven the collection and sate buyers need for brights.

Public School S/S 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for





























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Billy Reid S/S 2015

September 10th, 2014


Billy Reid S/S 2015

There has always been a certain timelessness to Billy Reid’s designs, pieces that speak to a bygone era of Southern gentlemen updated for a 21st-century sensibility. For Spring 2015, presented alongside Bloody Marys and the usual live accompaniment in the soaring hall of the High Line Hotel, he worked with a wealth of new fabrics and a looser fit for a relaxed feel that was comfortable and casual without being sloppy (something no one would ever dare accuse Reid of). There were some surprisingly thick fabrics for a Spring collection, but they were worked with a sense of lightness, from the billowing tunics and long shirts to the baggy shorts that hit below the knee. The palette, appropriately for an Alabama man who aims to avoid the feel of anything too “fashion,” was a range of soft pastels, comforting and warm, with a few engaging prints reminiscent of textile patterns. The shapes were a new development for Reid, but still just right for the guy who wants to look good without looking like he’s trying too hard.

Billy Reid S/S 2015

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Billy Rood for






























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Siki Im S/S 15

September 7th, 2014


Siki Im S/S 2015

Born in Germany to Korean parents, the designer Siki Im has always had an innate ability to combine two halves into a greater whole. For Spring 2015, that dichotomy melded the robotic and the romantic in a collection aptly titled “Human/Machine.” The mood board backstage was a study of contrasts, with schematics of robot toys pinned above fluttering sheets of tie-dye, their prominent wrinkles a clear reminder of handmade craftsmanship. The result was a mixture of sturdy shapes and all-too-human imperfections, reflected in the irreproducible tie-dye prints, the frayed edges, the uneven stripes, the mismatched footwear.

Im has always brought a weighty intellectualism to his designs, and it’s not for nothing that his show notes include both a syllabus and a list of references—which in this case ranged from Wall-E and Walter Benjamin to George Orwell and Futurist founder F.T. Marinetti. But what sets Im apart from other designers who casually toss off the names of great thinkers and artists as inspirations is both his rigor and his sense of human frailty, which keep his designs from feeling overly academic. Im’s latest collection faces a fashion industry—and a world—that is changing, thanks to technology, at the speed of light, and asks not just what we should be wearing, but why we will continue to wear it. But this wasn’t a case of future shock—the clothes were not sci-fi pastiches, but rather a plea for human connection. There were softly swinging coats, rustling tunics, and flowing trousers. When they stripped down for the finale, the models were left bare chested, present and forceful in all their vulnerability.

Siki Im S/S 2015
Stylist: David Vandewal
Hair: James Pecis (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Makeup: Benjamin Puckey (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Casting: John Tan

Review: Jonathan Shia

Backstage photos by Betty Sze
Runway photos by Kirt Reynolds






















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Future Faces

July 11th, 2014

Future Faces

Paris is, in many ways, a fitting end to the European show season, a city of beauty, history, and many of fashion’s biggest brands. For most models, it marks the culmination of nearly a month on the road, of endless days of castings, fittings, and miles and miles of travel from show to presentation and back. The runway veterans have the game figured out, but for the crop of new faces every season, the learning curve can be sharp. We found time with seven of our favorite new stars who’ve made an impact on the catwalks at the Spring 2015 shows, proving that inexperience is no burden to success. Our picks, shot over the final weekend of Paris Fashion Week by Dirk Alexander with styling by Adele Cany, range from brand-new boys who were scouted just weeks ago to a few more-experienced guys who had breakout seasons this time around. What they all have in common, however, is a fresh-faced excitement about their new prominence in the industry, along with clear eyes set on the possibilities that lie ahead.

Text by Jonathan Shia
Photography by Dirk Alexander
Styling by Adele Cany @ Angela De Bona NYC
Hair by Jean Baptiste Santens
Grooming by Virginie Rascle
Casting by Jonathan Shia and Betty Sze


LEFT: Sang Woo Kim wearing 22/4

RIGHT: Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and sweatshirt by Kenzo

Sang Woo Kim, 20, London
Even after dabbling in the fashion world with an internship at Prada in Korea and modeling stints for his classmates during his time in a foundation course at Central Saint Martins last year, Kim says his rapid introduction to the industry was like “being thrown into the deep end.” “My first job, the Stone Island campaign, was a week after my first shoot,” he says, “and I had no idea what was going on.” Still, the painter and fine-arts student has quickly found his feet, walking for DKNY, Dries Van Noten, DSquared2, Neil Barrett, and Dolce & Gabbana in his first full season. “It was amazing,” he says of the experience. “Being a skinny Asian boy, Milan was written-off, so doing four shows there was a dream. It’s been a great season.”


Mihai Bran wearing ROC LINE

Mihai Bran, 19, Romania
After being discovered on Facebook two-and-a-half years ago, Bran spent several seasons working for Roberto Cavalli and Ermenegildo Zegna without making many waves on the runway. He credits his stellar success this season—during which he popped up everywhere from Topman and Gucci to Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, with an opening slot at Hermès and a closing look at Dries Van Noten—to a newly trim physique and optimistic diligence. “You always have to be patient,” he says, “and I don’t mind being patient. I’m happy just being on option because they saw me and noticed me, but I’m not depressed if I don’t get the job.”


Sven de Vries wearing Berluti

Sven de Vries, 19, the Netherlands
A lot can happen in only five weeks. Just ask de Vries, who consistently returns to the word “unimaginable” to describe his whirlwind month since being scouted on a street in London during a school trip. A Prada exclusive led to runway turns at Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, and Y-3, each one bringing a fresh set of experiences. “When you’re on the catwalk, you get loads of adrenaline, and you feel so good,” he explains. The budding photographer and filmmaker says he looks forward to taking the opportunity to learn what it’s like to be in front of the camera for a change. “It’s really helpful for me to be on the other side of the lens,” he says, “so I can watch the photographer as a model and learn how to communicate better with the people I’m working with. It’s helping me grow as a person.”


LEFT: Mihai Bran wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and shirt by Missoni

RIGHT: Rhys Pickering wearing Maison Kitsuné


Marc Schulze wearing Kenzo

Marc Schulze, 19, Berlin
For Schulze, you could say the third time’s a charm. After originally being rejected by his mother agency and then spending two years mostly off the radar, the Berliner has made a splash this season, appearing at JW Anderson, Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior Homme, Raf Simons, and Y-3. “Before this year, I did two seasons in two years,” he laughs. “You can’t really call that modeling.” Schulze is still wide-eyed at his sudden success, saying the highlight of his season was “just being good enough” to walk for Prada and Dior Homme. Still, the avid gamer—he cites League of Legends as a special favorite—recognizes the privileges he has and is more than ready to take full advantage of them. “At my age, none of my friends get to see as much of the world as I do,” he says, “so I love that.”


LEFT: Rhys Pickering wearing Carven

RIGHT: Sang Woo Kim wearing jacket by 22/4


LEFT: Mihai Bran wearing ROC LINE

RIGHT: Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Maison Kitsuné and sweatshirt by Kenzo


Bram Valbracht wearing sweater by Maison Kitsuné, pants by Carven, and beanie by Kenzo

Bram Valbracht, 18, the Netherlands
When Valbracht was scouted on the street in Amsterdam a few weeks ago, he says his first thought was of reality TV. “Because of the show I Can Make You a Supermodel, I was like, ‘What is this? Am I going to have to be on camera?’” Instead, he was tossed straight into show season, walking for Prada, Neil Barrett, and Salvatore Ferragamo in Milan and Carven and Louis Vuitton in Paris. “It feels weird, because it’s not about how much effort you put into it,” he says about his new job. “You just have to be yourself.” Now in his gap year, Valbracht says he is ready for anything modeling may throw at him. “I already planned to take a year to go to a foreign country and learn the language,” he says, “and then this came on my path, so I will see what I will do now.”


LEFT: Sven de Vries wearing Berluti

RIGHT: Marc Schulze wearing sweatshirt by ROC LINE, pants by Kenzo, and shoes by Adieu


Rhys Pickering wearing jacket by Carven

Rhys Pickering, 19, Middlesbrough, England
Newcomers looking to build up their social media clout could take a page from Pickering, whose fifty-five thousand Twitter followers outnumber those of many established veterans. “Once you get a following, people start to see you and then you just get more exposure and it kind of snowballs from there,” he explains. A former resident of Dubai, the young filmmaker was discovered while tending bar for a family friend earlier this year, then quickly shipped off to Barcelona before booking a Prada exclusive and opening and closing Louis Vuitton. “I tried on two looks at Louis Vuitton and as [stylist Alister Mackie] was checking everything, he said, ‘What does it feel like having this responsibility?’ I couldn’t fathom what he was talking about, and then he told me I was opening and closing and I was absolutely gobsmacked,” he says. “It was absolutely amazing, and I don’t think I’ll experience anything more exhilarating than that ever.”


LEFT: Sang Woo Kim wearing 22/4

RIGHT: Marc Schulze wearing ROC LINE


Mats Van Snippenberg wearing jacket by Kenzo and t-shirt by Carven

Mats van Snippenberg, 16, the Netherlands
Of all the fresh young faces at the Spring 2015, few were fresher than van Snippenberg, still with a year left of high school and discovered on the street just this past King’s Day in April. After a few test shoots, he was off for fashion season, with a run that started with Topman and JW Anderson in London and included Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, and Carven. “It’s really awesome how fast it goes,” he says. “My first thought was, ‘Am I going to book a lot of shows?’ Then I got all these confirmations, and it was crazy because they were great brands. You walk one show for Prada and then the next one asks you to come and it keeps going.”


LEFT: Sven de Vries wearing sweater and pants by Berluti and shirt by Maison Kitsuné

RIGHT: Bram Valbracht wearing sweater by Maison Kitsuné

Special thanks to Bérix Enesa at Bananas (Paris), Maryline at THE FACE (Paris), Maria Ianniello at Elite Milan (Milan), Magali Gless at M MANAGEMENT MEN (Paris), Celia Martinez at Major Paris (Paris), Jérôme Alcantara at Marilyn Agency (Paris), Gaëtan Flamanc at Premium Models (Paris), and Cesar Perin at Unsigned MGMT.

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Best of British

June 17th, 2014


Best of British

London has always served as fashion’s source for innovative design, especially where menswear is concerned. The boundary-pushing local scene pulses with energy and a sartorial fearlessness that values creativity over constraint. As the London menswear collections head into full swing this week, take a look at 20 of the moment’s biggest male models clad in the very best British fashion has to offer. From high street favorites like TopMan and Whistles to luxury standards Burberry Prorsum and Alexander McQueen, all sides of the London look are represented. The ensembles are brought to life by the dashing cast in George Harvey’s black and white portrait series. The elegant images pair up star models with the most essential labels around and prove that it’s the clothes that make the man.

Text by Janelle Okwodu

Photographer: George Harvey for
Stylist: Julian Ganio
Casting and Production: Holly Hay
Hair: Nao Kawakami and Jessie HS Lim
Photography assistants: Adam Slama, Andrew Goss and Rufai Ajala
Styling assistants: Ogun Gortan, Nic Larsen and Max Voloshin

Special thanks: Shoreditch Studios and 123 Lighting

Ben Waters wearing Burberry Prorsum

Charlie James wearing Martine Rose

Glen Abrantes wearing Sibling

Robbie McKinnon wearing Topman Design

Ted Le Sueur wearing JW Anderson

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Color Blocking

April 10th, 2014


Color Blocking

In a Spring season awash in rich colors, few designers pulled them off with quite the aplomb of Christopher Bailey, who showed an endless variety of rich primaries and pale pastels in a Burberry men’s collection inspired by England’s vibrant cultural history, specifically the twin heavyweights of painter David Hockney and author Alan Bennett. The inspiration was an especially apt one, a celebration of two brilliant artistic geniuses for a house that has long been the epitome of all things British, finally showing back at home in London for the first time after over a decade of men’s shows in Milan. The rich, painterly colors—reminiscent of Hockney’s vivid portraits and pool paintings—inspired photographer Tetsu Kubota for this exclusive editorial, starring Burberry favorites Tommaso de Benedictis and Anders Hayward in the collection’s clean, sharp pieces styled by Grant Woolhead. Captured in quiet stillness amongst the swirls of color, de Benedictis and Hayward—students of, respectively, art history and contemporary dance—bring just the right artistic spirit to Bailey’s gorgeous, luminous designs.

Written by Jonathan Shia

Photography by Tetsu Kubota (BRIDGE Artists) for
Style by Grant Woolhead
Hair: Eric Jamieson (BRIDGE Artists)
Makeup: Aya Komatsu (De Facto)
Production & creative direction: Kegan Webb

Tommaso de Benedictis @ Tomorrow Is Another Day
Anders Hayward @ Wilhelmina

Photographer’s Assistant: Hayato Sakurai
Stylist’s Assistant: Adam Jensen
Digital Tech: Tomonori Iwata






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Siki Im F/W 14

February 12th, 2014


Siki Im
Fall / Winter

The menswear designer Siki Im has always had a compelling artistic bent, one that he took to new heights with his Fall 2014 collection, which was inspired by the avant-garde cultural and artistic movements of the Seventies. The clothes—nearly all black or shades of gray—had a rigorous power to them, and there was a slight Germanic feel to many of the designs, like Paul Boche’s strong leather biker jacket or Anders Hayward’s double-breasted blazer that splayed open at the bottom. The main material was wool, whether in thick weaves like Chris Beek’s ribbed robe or the raw felt—inspired by the Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys—that gave heft to Abel van Oeveren’s peacoat. There was a strong, elegant outerwear component as well, one that proved that Im’s thoughts were not just focused on the provocative youths of the period. Félix Gesnouin’s fur-collared overcoat had a classic Old World flair, and Yu Fangqing’s coat had a speckled look that was appropriately called “noise.” Im also, as is his wont, stretched the limits of the fashion show into performance art of a sort, as the illustrator Richard Haines, well-known for his runway sketches, took to several of the pieces backstage with white pastel, chalking faces, hands, and other figures onto the sturdy designs. A hand stretched playfully across the pocket of Miles Langford’s bomber jacket, an arm reached down the sleeve of Kristoffer Hasslevall’s blazer, and a face loomed from the back of Laurie Harding’s oversized coat. Watching Haines at work backstage, as he sketched closing model Adam Butcher’s hunched-over figure onto the back of a jacket, served as a powerful reminder that, for the most creative designers, the clothes you see coming down the runway reveal but a small fraction of the thought and effort that went into them.

Designer Siki Im
Styling by David Vandewal
Hair by James Pecis (London: D + V Management , New York: D + V Management)
Makeup by Benjamin Puckey (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Casting by John Tan

Siki Im Fall/Winter 2014

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Betty Sze



























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Siki Im S/S 14

September 18th, 2013


Siki Im SS14

Siki Im has never been one to shy away from the darker sides of masculinity, and he put his penchant for progressive design to good use for Spring 2014, riffing on prison and hospital uniforms in a collection that bristled with tense energy. A quote from Crime and Punishment served as one starting point for Im’s pieces, while Alix Lambert’s stark documentary Mark of Cain, about Russian prison tattoos, was another. These inspirations resulted in a clean palette of grays and pale blue and rose, washed out as if viewed under faintly flickering fluorescent lights. Im worked with a looser silhouette, which he said came from the wider proportions of prison uniforms (which, he noted, ironically “suggest easiness and defy restriction”), and the models padded about the parking garage where the show took place in soft paper slippers, which gave them an oddly menacing air while at the same time seeming to take away from their power. There was a cleanness to the designs, from Andrew Westermann’s unadorned jumpsuit to Ian Sharp’s unconstructed blazer over harem pants. For the finale, the boys came out wrapped in various nylon constructions that had a sterile purity, serving as an embodiment of the lightness of redemption as contrasted, in Im’s own deeply philosophical terms, with the “heavy, confining quality of remorse.”

Text by Jonathan Shia
Images: Backstage by Betty Sze / Runway by Kirt Reynolds for



























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Duckie Brown S/S 14

September 17th, 2013


Duckie Brown SS14

There was a certain cleanliness to Duckie Brown’s Spring 2014 collection, which eschewed the designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s earlier penchant for loud prints and colors for a concise study of shape and proportion in a clean palette of mostly black and white and gray. Adonis Bosso’s smooth long overcoat had a timeless appeal, as did Robert Laby’s cream polo shirt, which had outsize proportions that felt fresh and very modern. A strong graphic vision was introduced with the barcode stripes that ran up Alexander Beck’s coat and Duncan Proctor’s jacket, while Cox and Silver tipped their hat at their gender-bending proclivities with a pair of halterneck tunics. Many of the pieces had an aesthetic purity, with extraneous details stripped away for a minimalist look that still pushed the boundaries. Miles Langford’s varsity jacket was a perfect example, free of all decoration, but with widened sleeves that added a twist, especially when paired with shorts that bordered on sheer. The pair pushed a bit more outré with their final looks, including a selection of intricately patterned jackets and several items that had a engagingly nubby texture, as in Collin Tennant’s wide tee worn over shimmery silver shorts. It was a fitting conclusion that closed out a determined show with some appropriately imaginative new ideas.

Designer: Steven Cox & Daniel Silver for Duckie Brown
Casting: Clare Rhodes
Text by Jonathan Shia
Images: Backstage by Kirt Reynolds / Runway by Billy Rood (Both for























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Raf Simons Men S/S 14

June 28th, 2013


Raf Simons S/S 14

Raf Simons may be best-known today for breathing new life into Dior with his sculptural shapes and intricate florals, but a look at the evolving aesthetic of his own men’s line offers vibrant proof of his multivalent abilities. Once regarded as an arch-minimalist (cf. his years at Jil Sander), Simons has in recent seasons pushed in a more playful direction. Spring 2014 saw him bringing in a Pop Art sensibility, emblazoning his shifts with vintage-style product logos advertising “super nylon” and the “new shape of comfort.” There was a youthful looseness to the collection, with swinging overcoats and baggy tops that drifted halfway down the thigh. Still, the silhouettes had a certain rigor to them, as in the smooth lines of Kristoffer Hasslevall’s denim coat, paired with slim trousers and candy-colored sneakers, or Alexander Ferrario’s crisp navy trench. Yannick Abrath’s forest green onesie was cinched with a striped belt, adding a bit of form to a show that otherwise surged with the bounding energy of youth and freedom and a certain naïveté.

Text by Jonathan Shia
Images by Lea Colombo for



















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