Calvin Klein S/S 14
Anniversary collections present a unique challenge for designers. On the one hand, the celebratory mood of these milestone collections offer an opportunity for creativity to flourish, on the other the stakes are significantly higher. How does one aptly sum up years of work in a brief selection of looks while keeping true to the moment’s ethos? That question seemed on the mind of Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa this season. Costa who is toasting his 10th year with the storied American house, is one of luxury’s foremost purveyors of simplicity and the serene look he’s crafted at Calvin over the past decade has become an influential force; long before minimalism was a buzzword Calvin Klein was setting the standard for less is more.
Rather than sending a parade of greatest hits down his runway, Costa offered appealing new takes on some of his favorite themes. Deconstructionism was front and center via frayed hems on creamy dresses and visible stitching on lightweight tweed overcoats. Transparency added sexiness to oversized sweaters layered over pleated skirts. A surprising amount of color and pattern were offered – with cheery pastels and an artistic multi-colored print on Vera Vavrova providing a pleasant break from the typically Calvin sea of beige. Granted, no one does a pale slip-dress quite like Costa, but their absence this season was hardly felt.
Though this was a season marked by dramatic change and thoughtful nods to the past, the quintessential pieces of Costa’s S/S selection were the ones imbued with the designer’s ethereal touch. The fringe detailed dresses and gowns of the finale captured everything exciting there is about Costa’s work; with these he showcased his maturity as an artist, giving his audience pieces that were at once deceptively simple and completely elegant. As worn by the chic, multicultural cast of beauties these dresses breathed new life into the Calvin aesthetic and propelled the house back where it belongs – on the cutting edge.