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Casting As Politics: The Negotiation Of Beauty

Today, the structures that define what beauty is, who is allowed to embody it, and who gets to profit from it remain largely opaque. Examining the politics of casting reveals who fashion believes the future belongs to.

Cover: Balenciaga - F/W 2026 Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images Our data-led analysis of visibility and representation for FW26 and SS26. Remember that scene from Ruben Östlund's Palme d'Or-winning 2022 film Triangle of Sadness? Carl, a shirtless male model portrayed by Harris Dickinson, is asked to do "a little walk, no smiling, no stopping" for a casting jury. Real-life stylist and Vogue Scandinavia fashion editor Robert Rydberg then asks him to relax the "triangle of sadness" between his eyebrows and to open his mouth "to look a bit…

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