Roksanda Ilinčić ventured into the world of sculptural expression for F/W 25, drawing inspiration from the late visual artist Phyllida Barlow. Barlow, known for her work with discarded materials, was not just a design reference but a living part of the collection, lending her voice to the soundtrack. Ilinčić gave new life to leftover fabrics from past collections repurposing melton wool, raffia, paper, viscose, and even stiff sponge squares into abstract silhouettes that blurred the line between clothing and sculpture. Styled by George Krakowiak, the standout pieces felt like wearable installations, with oversized, sculptural forms that wouldn’t be out of place in a gallery. Balancing the more structural looks, asymmetrical silk tunic dresses in mustard yellow, teal, lavender, and blush, with some looks featuring painterly prints, introduced a softer color contrast, while a dramatic black feather dress with elongated sleeves and cream and ash knitwear dresses added further depth to the collection. Presented at SpaceHouse, designed by architect Richard Seifert, the show reached its finale with Barlow’s voice echoing from her final public interview, a tribute to the artist’s legacy. With this collection, Ilinčić proves that sustainability doesn’t have to be a limitation but can be a driving force behind innovative, forward-thinking design.
