Francesco Risso continues to expand the realms of creativity with his S/S 25 collection for Marni, creating a world where whimsy meets curiosity. Each guest was greeted by a poem about a white rabbit darting through a moonlight forest, setting the tone for a dreamlike journey. But in a flash, the rabbit disappears, evoking a sense of fleeting mystery that echoed throughout the show. Staged at Marni’s headquarters on Viale Umbria, the collection was crafted entirely from cotton, a fabric choice that highlighted simplicity amid the fantasy. Three grand pianos, led by the atmospheric sounds of musician Dev Hynes, anchored the intimate setting, adding a sense of quiet drama to the space. Angel Prost opened the show in a fitted, monochromatic black ensemble, complete with a bicorne hat that channeled an elegant twist on sailor uniforms. These hats, a consistent sight throughout the collection, were paired with exaggerated, divine-style eyebrows courtesy of makeup artist Yadim. As each look progressed, the eyebrows grew bolder, furthering the playful yet unconventional aesthetic Risso is known for. The collection’s palette was a medley of soft pastels, floral prints, deep blues, creamy whites, and rich ruby tones. Standout pieces included feather-adored gowns worn by Anok Yai and Diane Chiu, which brought a delicate contrast to the oversized suiting and peplum skirts. Each element felt carefully curated to transport the audience into Risso’s mystical world. Risso’s ability to balance the fantastical with the tangible was especially evident in the tailoring. From the feather-light dresses to the structured oversized pieces, he incites us to explore fashion’s role as a medium for storytelling.
