J.W. Anderson’s F/W 23 Collection Was a Surreal Ode to Michael Clark

Jonathan Anderson, known for his surreal takes on pop culture and society at large, presented a rebelliously nostalgic F/W 23 collection for J.W. Anderson at the Roundhouse venue in Camden Town, the morning of the BAFTA Awards. The show had a star-studded guest lineup consisting of Naomi Campbell, Anna Wintour, Alexa Chung, A$AP Nast, Romeo Beckham, Ncuti Gatwa, and Kai Isaiah Jamal. Anderson dedicated the show to legendary Scottish choreographer Michael Clark, known as the “David Bowie of Dance” and focused on Clark’s ability to use graphic iconography for his performance promotional posters while pulling references from his archive since the brand’s launch in 2008. Anderson showed his full appreciation to the dancer with a combination of exaggerated elements, including a warped Coca-cola logo that spells out “God’s disco”, a smiley face jumpsuit, and a peace sign shirt.

Cast by Ashley Brokaw, the show exclusively opened with Alix Bouthors wearing a white tank with “Michael Clark” text in neon green. The next look was a risqué reference to one of Clark’s performance posters featuring a phallus drawing on a t-shirt, with the same penile graphic appearing on a billboard size green poster installed in the middle of the runway. The collection featured dresses draped to look like curtains, faux fur strapless sweaters with built-in pockets and a fur cape resembling an octopus, a covetable Tesco bag dress, and tops with patterns of tire streaks styled by Benjamin Bruno. While many models walked down the runway in socks, the leather mules with toes shaped like cat paws will no doubt be enviable new accessories. Overall, the unconventionally, creative tribute to Michael Clark’s artistic vision for F/W 23 was Anderson’s full on challenge to traditionally conservative, British norms and those playing it safe.