“As you know, Thom likes to tell a story,” actor Gwendoline Christie mused as she opened Thom Browne’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection on Monday set in the ornate Opéra Garnier. It was game day as Browne’s Cinderella story slammed into varsity motifs and punk rock aesthetics for a chaotically colorful presentation of opulence. A parade of voluminous opera coats gave way to shorter versions, which then morphed into a 1950s poodle (or should we say Hector) skirt silhouette. With 58 looks, Browne’s signature stripe motif in red, white, and blue felt subtly woven when you considered the palette of polka-dotted pastels and primary hues with trompe l’oeil oxford jackets, exposed underwear, birdcage veils, and petticoats plenty. A key beauty team that included Isamaya Ffrench and James Pecis, with a color assist by Lena Ott, provided a punk harlequin mashup that met the maximalist level of the collection. Cast by Adam Hindle, model veterans Debra Shaw, Erin Wasson, Kati Nescher, and Sibyl Buck led the model pack of Bella Hadid, Anna Cleveland,Cai Guannan, with actor Michaela Jaé Rodriguez closing. Front row attendees included Janet Jackson, Erykah Badu, Doja Cat, Ella Emhoff, Evan Mock, and Jaden Smith.
