Nyagua Ruea‘s tight-knit community threw around the idea of modeling as a possible profession to her but for a long time, Ruea says she was “never the beauty standard growing up.” Hence, why the idea of modeling was intimidating until she deep-dove into studying the industry’s nuances and ultimately “fell in love.” Fast forward years later, her community turned out to be right as the South Sudanese, Models.com’s Hot Lister has constantly been booked by brands like Alexander McQueen and Erdem, has worked with top creatives like Edward Enninful and Rafael Pavarotti, and has graced the runways of Valentino and Schiaparelli. Yet even with the rising model’s success, Ruea sheds light on the racism, stigma, and missed opportunities she’s encountered due to having a South Sudanese passport. “Being an African passport holder in this industry has got to be one of the most nerve-wracking, anxiety-driven things you could ever face,” Ruea declares. “It’s been one of the most challenging things we could ever face.” According to the Henley Passport Index, South Sudanese passport holders need a visa to visit 173 countries yet despite constant visa appointment cancellations, Ruea has perservered through these hardships. Models.com spoke to the McQueen muse about overcoming challenges, feeling seen, and her ultimate goal of securing a worldwide campaign.
M Le magazine du Monde ‘Manteaux Armures’, photographed by Tyler Mitchell | Image courtesy of Women Management
Did you always want to be a model, and how did you get scouted?
For some reason, the only time people were ever complimenting me was when they told me to be a model. Naturally, I was never anybody’s beauty standard growing up. I kept asking myself, “What is this modeling thing that people keep telling me about?” Around nine/ten, I decided I wanted to be a model. I researched on my iPad, and I just kind of fell in love with fashion, and I told my parents, “guys, after high school, that’s where I’m going.” And I did. I was born and raised in Kenya, and I saw online that Beth Models had a scouting trip in Kenya. Luckily, I had just sent in my photos, and they said, “great, we’d love to see you this weekend.” So I got to meet them, loved them, and they signed me immediately and gave me that contract the same day. They’re the most amazing people – they’ve supported me and held my hand through every single career step. All the trials, the tribulations, and all the errors. I’m so grateful for them.
You were cast for your first cover for the British Vogue’s February issue. What was your reaction when you discovered that you were booked, and what does that cover represent to you?
I had just landed from a trip to London, and, as soon as I landed, I got like so many missed calls from my agent, and then I called him back and was like, “Hey, what’s up? Is everything okay? And she was like, “You’ve just been confirmed for the Vogue cover.” I was like, huh? and then I started bawling in the plane. We hadn’t even like gotten off the plane yet. And all the other passengers were looking at me, but I couldn’t believe that one of my dreams had manifested into a reality. So my initial reaction was excitement with a little bit of sobbing. The cover represents feeling seen, feeling heard, and taking up space, finally. For that to have been the first cover in [British Vogue] history with all black models, shot by a man of color, styled by a Black African man, with hair and makeup by black people. To be part of that movement was just unreal. It means so much to me to this day. I can look back at the cover 10 or 15 years from now and say, yeah, we did that.
You made it to Models.com’s Hot list rankings back in January and recently walked for Schiaparelli and Valentino’s legendary fall couture shows. What motivates you to keep striving in your career?
God and my family. I’m even getting emotional now. I don’t think I would be anywhere right now if not for the support my family has, you know, given me throughout the trials and the tribulations and just to have God by my side, to be honest. They motivate me daily to keep going. Also, just knowing that I haven’t even reached my peak yet, I’m just at the beginning. My pinnacle is not yet here.
Valentino Fall Couture Show 2022 | Image courtesy of Women Management
You were also featured in Alexander McQueen’s resort cruise 2022 lookbook. What was it like working with the McQueen team again? as you’ve worked with them consistently?
Working with the McQueen team, who I consider my fashion family, would be the best thing that’s happened to my career to date. They’re a team that has morals and stand on so much loyalty. They care, and “it’s not just, oh, I care about you because you’re working for us.” But they generally care about you as a human being. The brand is just a representation of all things you’d like to see within the fashion industry. I’m grateful and blessed to have such people in my life, from Sarah, the creative director, to Camilla, the in-house stylist, and the entire McQueen team. I honestly wish I could have met Lee. He would be so proud that people fear the women, his brand dresses just like he desired. So love McQueen; literally my fashion family to date. I will tell my grandkids about McQueen when I’m much older. Once you get in with McQueen, they will always book you. Whether it’s in-house stuff or whatever the case may be, it doesn’t matter. They will always make sure to make you feel visible.
What is one thing you must do before you start your work day and why?
Pray. Just give thanks to God for good health, waking me up, keeping my family alive, and just being blessed to see another day to be a better version of myself. Definitely pray, drink my water, and then I would finish by calling my mom for some cute banter, just laughs. That makes my day ten times better, but it depends because I’m not a morning person.
You closed your first ever show for Dion Lee’s F/W ’22 collection. How was that experience for you?
I felt privileged and honored that Dion chose me to close his show. It was a surreal moment. Just the adrenaline right before going down the runway. I loved every second of it. They are another brand that I do generally love. I would say all around, just a great moment for me and my career.
Alexander McQueen Resort/Cruise 2022 Lookbook, photographed by Chloe Le Drezen | Image courtesy of Women Management
What has been your most memorable moment on set so far?
I would definitely have to go back to the British Vogue cover. Just the energy of the set and the ability to shoot with my friends, it felt like not even a workday, to be honest, but it just felt like we were out there vibing. Afrobeats on set, it was just a good vibe. Also, [Rafael Pavarotti] is another photographer I’ve worked with multiple times and someone I adore as a person, so for us to share such a monumental moment, nothing could top that. I wish everyone would’ve been able to experience the energy that day. Everyone was happy, with no bad energy. Usually, when you go on set, as a black model, your mind has so many tabs open because you’re thinking, I don’t know if this hair stylist will do my hair well, or this makeup artist. You’re worried about being a model, but on top of that, how your overall beauty look will turn out. On set that day, I didn’t have to worry about hair or makeup because I knew [Virginie and Ammy] would get me right.
What would you say are one of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in your career, and how have you moved past that challenge?
I have been waiting to shed light on this for so long. Being an African passport holder in this industry has got to be one of the most nerve-wracking, anxiety-driven things you could ever face. The amount of racism and classism we go through, just trying to get visas and work permits, etc. just to be able to work, is bizarre. For example, I have an O-1 visa but a South Sudanese passport. I don’t know the relationship between South Sudan and the United States, but anytime I leave America, I must get it restamped. It’s not like getting appointments is quick. I’ve missed multiple job opportunities because of no visa, late appointments, and late passport returns. It’s been one of the most challenging things we could ever face as African passport holders or third-world country holders. I wouldn’t say I’ve overcome it yet because I still have a South Sudanese passport I travel with.
Still, I’ve just found a way to have thick skin towards it and know that whatever God says is for me, regardless of a delayed visa, no appointment will come to me. I want the fashion industry to come together to fix this issue. I’ve missed multiple opportunities because I can’t travel, or I can only be in one country at a certain time. It’s not like I can go in and out. For example, if I have a job in America and another one in Paris and they’re back to back, is going to be a situation of which one am I missing? Other people with passport privilege don’t have to go through that choice. I have to choose which job will be more beneficial for my career. Why do I have to do that? I’ve been held back at immigration and the constant anxiety of going through passport control because you know they will interrogate you. Even though, you know, you have all the paperwork, and you’re not doing anything wrong.
H&M Innovation Circular Design Story 2021, photographed by Rafael Pavarotti | Image courtesy of Women Management
Who would you say are your dream brands or collaborators to work with in the future?
Versace. Versace. Versace! I feel like this is one brand aesthetic that I fit so well. I have always loved and admired the brand since like Gianni’s era and how they have been diversity champions. Also, a solo Vogue cover. One that appreciates me, where I can also tell my story of the whole passport situation. Being from South Sudan and born and raised in Kenya, being from a war-torn country. I feel like a solo vogue cover would give me that opportunity and chance. The third one would be to shoot with Steven Meisel, which I’ve gotten so close to shooting with him, but due to visa issues, I couldn’t. I was booked for Alexander McQueen S/S 22 campaign that we were supposed to shoot in December, but there were no appointments, so I, unfortunately, couldn’t go. I’ve missed like four campaigns now because of the visa issue, and you would think that McQueen is tired of me, but they keep trying, which is why I love them, their loyalty. I would also like a worldwide campaign. I just want to see my face everywhere around the world. I have a God who’s always working overtime for me. I believe that when the time is right, all of my dreams will come to reality.
You recently were booked for Mônot Resort 23 lookbook. How was working with Eli Mizrahi? Where was it shot?
We shot it in Ibiza, one of my favorite shoots. I worked with Dena Giannini, British Vogue’s style director, and then Eli, who is just pure vibes and banter. Even though we were working, it just felt so light. We were at this big house that one of Eli’s friends owned, and they had a pool. Eli was like, “okay, after lunch, let’s all go take a two-hour nap, and do whatever you wanna do in that two hours,” which I loved.
What advice would you give to your younger self? Like looking back at your career now and all that you’ve accomplished?
I would say keep going, keep praying, and keep believing. God’s timing is always the best. It doesn’t matter how long it takes. It doesn’t matter how short it takes. It’s going to happen at the right time. All your goals eventually will come true if you just keep believing. Also, always have the Bible verse, Mark 11:24, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you will receive it, and then you will.
