Despite the ongoing chaos in Europe, Rick Owens maintained his faith in fashion during times of heartbreak, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a boomerang-shaped, smoke pit. Titled “Strobe,” models carried papal-like canisters of fog smoke, spiked with a subtle peek of Rick’s latest collaboration with Aesop. Inspired by saga movie maker Cecil B. DeMille, more specifically his 1930s silent movie era, Owens went as Old Hollywood as someone who designs for apocalypse could get. Striking outwearing included monk cloaks that contorted the top of figures, shearling bombers were padded into square angles, and hedonistic parkas that piled on already hulking frames. Sculpturally amorphic, sequined gowns with collapsing volumes, glittered through the fog as callbacks to elements already explored by sci-fi frontwoman, Zendaya during the Dune press tour last year. Models slinked by in their column dresses with bias-cut skirts and padded short shorts in the teetering platform boots that have become a staple amongst RickHeads. This season as styled by Tyrone Dylan Susman, the shin-guarded boots were decked in shearling for the ultimate sensory immersion. The usual suspects of black, creme, pewter and earthy olives were there but so were the lively shades of bubblegum pink, aquamarine, acidic yellow, rust this time joined with teal snake print, denim, and goat fur for a compelling mix of textiles.
Coco Labbee
