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- Daniella, on left, wears dress by FRANCESCA R. PALUMBO, jacket by EDON CHOI, boots by DR BERDAN and choker stylist’s own. Sol, in center, wears sweatshirt by STARTER, leather jacketby DR BERDAN and dress by MO & CO. Mopesola, on right, wears striped jumper by SELF MADE, jacket by ELVHEM, and tights, earrings and shorts stylist’s own.
In this story stylist Rhona Ezuma and photographer Silvia Draz re-imagine the British youth culture of punk — a movement often referenced but seldom associated with people of colour. New faces Mopesola, Mariam, Daniella, Sol and Shane explore the infusion of brazen aesthetics, bold sexuality, and androgyny which made punk such a liberating moment.
While the fashion industry still has a – shamefully, embarrassingly – long way to go before inclusivity becomes status quo, there’s a chance for creative direction to also diversify in order to ensure that representation becomes authentic and organic, something for clients to embrace with enthusiasm rather than as a PR necessity to avoid being named and shamed.
This is an immensely exciting time to be a model scout— countries and communities that were previously overlooked are now firmly on the radar. While previously Eastern European models dominated the catwalks, there’s a strong tide of new faces from West Africa (in particular Nigeria), the Dominican Republic and the North African and Middle Eastern diaspora of the US, UK, and Europe debuting each season. There’s also change in those countries known for their models of European descent: South American agencies have begun to seriously search for black models, and Australia’s biggest export is a South Sudanese refugee.
Be done with tokenism, with diversity as trend but not change. The next frontiers? More models from South East Asia (Indonesia, in particular, seems on the verge of a model boom) and South Asian backgrounds. More exposure for trans models of colour. More high fashion opportunities for curve models.
What do you think fashion needs to embrace next?
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- Mopesola wears hair knit top and knickers by MOTHERWOMB, blazer by JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN, gloves by ADAM FROST, belt worn over jacket from ROKIT, underbody worn as tights by LEG AVENUE at UKTIGHTS.COM, chain stylist’s own.
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- Mopesola wears striped jumper by SELF MADE, jacket by ELVHEM, tights, earrings and shorts stylist’s own.
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- Shane wears cut out body by LEG AVENUE at UKTIGHTS.COM, blazer by MO & CO, jeans by C.U.M, belt from ROKIT.
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- Shane wears dress by HOUSE OF HOLLAND, scarf by MIU MIU, socks by DR BERDAN, boots by NICOLA BACCHILEGA, tights by PAMELA MANN at UKTIGHTS.COM.
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- Mariam wears t-shirt by CHEMA DIAZ, skirt and jacket by MIU MIU, dress, boots, polo neck and diamond chain stylist’s own. Shane wears cut out body by LEG AVENUE at UKTIGHTS.COM, blazer by MO & CO, jeans by C.U.M, belt from ROKIT.
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- Mariam, on left, wears Mariam wears dress and shirt by ANGEL CHEN, dress by NICOLA BACCHILEGA, boots by DR BERDAN, diamond chain stylist’s own. In middle, Mariam wears t-shirt by CHEMA DIAZ, skirt and jacket by MIU MIU, dress, boots, polo neck and diamond chain stylist’s own.
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- Sol wears sweatshirt by STARTER, leather jacket by DR BERDAN, dress by MO & CO, boots by ANGEL CHEN.
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- Sol wears fishnet top by ELVHEM, half blazer by UNDERAGE, vinyl trousers by NAYA RAE, diamond earring by KAT HAWLEY.
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- Daniella wears dress by FRANCESCA R. PALUMBO, jacket by EDON CHOI, boots by DR BERDAN, choker stylist’s own.
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- Daniella wears t-shirt by C.U.M, dungarees by EUDON CHOI, belt from ROKIT, chain and rings stylist’s own.
Photography — Silvia Draz (assisted by Lottie Turner)
Creative Director & Stylist — Rhona Ezuma (assisted by Chiamaka Aligbe)
Hair — Joe Burwin
Makeup — Riona O’sullivan (assisted by Megumi)
Models — Sol Malila and Shane Guyher @ Models 1 (London), Mopesola, Daniella Daiuto and Mariam Aluede @ Nii Agency
Special thanks to Rokit