Getting Paid
Across the board, many models in the industry felt that the payment system in the industry was severely outdated. With no set salaries, many models operate under the guise of “independent contractors” with little to no assurance of timely payment, if at all. Agencies have threatened or withheld funds if models wanted to leave because of mismanagement. Clients have delayed or refused payments, leaving agencies to foot the bill. In short, the ambiguity of prompt payment seems in direct contrast to fashion being a capitalist industry that benefits off of materialism.
“We spend hours waiting for clients to see us and they don’t value our time so I would like for it to become common practise that after a certain time period models get paid for waiting for a client to see them.”
“One thing I feel should change is how models are paid for jobs, most of us are following this career with very little money and between traveling and food it can become costly very quickly. I have talked to a lot of models over the past year about how they are paid because I’m genuinely curious and most of them are open to talking about it because I find they are also upset over the topic. Most girls complained that many of the jobs they booked they have not been paid for either months or weeks, sometimes years. I understand that this is how the industry works, but we have to think of all the girls coming from no money fighting for a career that are doing this not only because they like it but because they also need a job.”
“I would like to not get paid 3 months after the job simply because the agency is keeping the money to pay others first when I know for a fact the client paid net 30.”
“Paying models with a delay of several months is an abuse of power and it is an illegal practice. The agency is responsible for the performance of the contract regardless of whether or not the client has paid. It is the law.”
Protocol and Treatment
The instituting of more clear-cut and accommodating labor agreements could curb mistreatment, abuse, and inconsiderate treatment and is by far one of the most common sense steps towards modernizing the model workplace. Transparency and stricter age limits could prevent manipulative practices or check iffy situations for those not equipped to navigate them. Small steps like providing changing rooms for models backstage or hiring hair stylists experienced with different hair types may sound trivial but can reverberate into more fundamental respect and lead to the building of a more comprehensive safety net.
“I don’t understand why I still ALWAYS have to cover myself when I am trying to change backstage at shows. We have NO privacy at all. Everyone can walk in and out the changing area, and if I ask a photographer or filmmaker to leave because my colleagues and I are changing, they get really angry at me because they feel like I’m attacking them for something. “I am not even filming you! ” “I am here for the house” I don’t care, we just don’t want you to be around us while we are getting changed!”
“Behaviour I find unacceptable is casting directors and/or brands treating models as if we aren’t humans with feelings.”
“I hate when they let photographers in while we change. We’re naked and there are some photographers taking photos of models… I think this is unacceptable. I am very happy to see that the average age of a model has gone up but still a long way to go to reach a true versatility and healthy balance.”
“As a teen model in the industry which I have been myself, you are easily manipulated into signing unfair contracts, cheated with payments and disrespectfully treated at work. Being so young you just simply don’t have the courage to speak up and ask questions, have an opinion. You almost feel as if you owe your agents and clients something for working with you. I honestly think an internationally working model should be 18+ only!”
“I know this could shock a lot of people but I think the minimum age for modeling (especially runway) should be 18. They are fucking kids/teens still and the pressure is crazy. That’s one reason why the level of respect towards models is so low because we don’t feel we have a voice or even an understanding of what is happening around us. Most haven’t even had a job prior to modeling so they have no clue what a workplace should be like. We just begin to learn that this is what it’s like to be a model. The crazy call times, lack of privacy, the demand on our bodies, constant rejection and comparison etc.”
“Many behaviors are unacceptable, but there isn’t a rule of conduct that everyone must follow and who determines what level is appropriate or not. Some models don’t care if you lift their skirt up to grab the shirt underneath without asking, others do. There are two sides to every story. I just think you need to see it from the model’s perspective and treat them as a person, not as a “thing”. Also, just ask them if they don’t mind? TAKING PHOTOS OF A MODEL OR SURROUNDING MODELS WHILE THEY ARE DRESSING IS NOT OKAY!!!!! It doesn’t matter if it’s just of a shoe. Or an earring. Or you won’t use it. I’ve seen this happen way too many times and had it happen to me too many times. It is not okay.”
“…the lack of hair stylists that do not know how to work on ethnic hair for male models. I asked for a simple brush one time before I went on the runway and the stylist looked at me like I was crazy and gave me a comb brush, even though I have a low cut. These people have zero respect for black models, they want to work with long hair only. We don’t just roll out of bed and walk on the runway! Our hair must be taken care of just as much.”
“I think we deserve the same rules and regulations as people working in other jobs and I’d like to know that I have a right to sit down for five minutes, drink some water and eat (because yes models do eat). On that note, I think clients should provide healthy food options, especially in locations where nothing is around. Simple rules regarding work hours, required breaks, and food being provided would make a huge difference. I’d also like more honesty and fairness with agency fees.”
“The way people treat us is absurd, like we mean nothing, like we’re garbage. They forget we’re all alone young girls trying to make a living like everyone else, but since we’re “pretty” we cannot complain otherwise we’d be just bitching.”
“Yanking and damaging hair in order to get the job done faster. I’ve seen models come out of fashion week with bald spots because hair stylists can be as rough as they want to get the job done on time…”
Diversity
The subject of diversity in fashion stands as an extensive pillar of disgruntlement. The fashion industry sells a lifestyle of luxurious perfection yet, up until very recently, who was included in that narrative was normally painted as tall, skinny, and white. For those outside that singular description, with coins to spend, fashion runways and billboards have fallen short of expectations. As the industry moves to rectify racial biases, many models call for further pushes of diversity in skin color, gender identity, and height.
“…we’re still blindly living in the eyes of colorism.”
“My former agency not supporting its black models as much as it supports the other models it represents (e.g not being sent to castings because of skin color). In fact, I can confidently say that most of the jobs I got while with the agency, I got them not because they represented me well, but because of all the networking I did. All models should be supported and represented equally.”
“Other than all the shit that came along with the #metoo movement (which I’ve also had my fair share of) the biggest thing that worried me was how rampant homophobia is in this industry (even from people in the industry who are gay themselves) the amount of times bookers & managers have tried to “help” me tone down my “gayness” is revolting…”
“I would like to end the whole idea of a 34″ hip. For most models, this is difficult to maintain and can often be unhealthy. I’ve had agents tell me that it’s so I can fit sample size, yet almost every shoot I’ve been to, the clothes hang off me and have to be clipped.”
“The height requirement is the thing that I want to see a change in. Even though the industry can’t or hardly accepts people that are really small, it wouldn’t hurt to loosen up a little and make that 6ft mark less strict.”
“There are so many things that need to be changed in the modeling industry but I feel like it is going to take time because some people do not want to accept change. Such as designers hiring hair stylists that are not trained to do POC hair or makeup when they could just hire someone who does. I have had situations where I have had to argue with hairstylists because they had no clue what they were doing with my hair…All models should feel like they are being represented and respected.”
“More plus size and different bodies used in campaigns and runway in high fashion. Actual body inclusivity, not just a token plus size body.”
“I’m a brown skin male, and whenever it comes to having a MUA on set, they don’t even have my shade or they don’t know how to do my hair. First off I’m medium brown. The fact that they don’t have MY shade is a huge problem because I’m not even that dark which proves how the industry caters to lighter/white models.”
Health and Body Image
A longstanding stigma in the modeling industry, the issues of models’ health is complete with just as much truth as it is misnomer. A highly critical environment created by clients, designers, and agencies, as well as social media scrutiny, can take a mental and physical toll on models’ bodies and minds as they strive to stay in demand. Preventing eating disorders, depression and negative body image starts with underpinning said demand with a hardline focus on wellbeing and the slackening of harmful expectations.
“There needs to be a certain BMI that girls must meet to model so that those who do are at or almost at a healthy weight. Models’ health needs to come first.”
“It should be mandatory for agencies to have an option for health and dental care programs for models; there are too many people who lose out on possible fruitful careers due to ongoing untreated illness.”
“If the majority of people within ANY industry had a similar level of empathy [as my agency] towards mental and physical health there would be a huge shift in our evolution.”
“Also I do not want to hear I am too fat or what is the problem with your skin. It is normal that when you get your period that you look a bit puffy or get a few pimples. I know it is our job to take care of our body and face and make sure it looks its best all the time, but still, everybody has her/his days, where they have some issues and do not want to hear, they look like shit or whatever.”
“What concerns me the most and I would love for girls to speak up more about is the eating disorder issue…ALL of my model friends admitted to me they have had some kind of eating disorder at some point in their career and most of them were still struggling with it. That made me realize how bad it is and how little clients and agents talk and care about the well being of models.”
“Models must understand that an agency is a working partner, neither an employer nor a boss, and act accordingly. The relationship between models and their agency needs to be clarified, and the balance of power should be rethought.”
“Before signing any contract with an agency, (there should be) an obligatory briefing by the agency’s lawyer and accountant. A training program for the personnel of the agency: knowing and understanding the laws and the procedures they apply daily is a good starting point, especially taken into account the fact that if a model has a question, he or she usually turns to the booker. Educating models themselves on their duties and rights. We should not underestimate the fact that many young inexperienced people accept and will continue to accept unfair and dangerous working conditions due to the misinterpretation of the profession, and the aura of “industry of fantasy” it has.”
“There definitely should be more organizations (like Model Alliance) for models to go to when they have been sexually assaulted, haven’t been paid, or have been mistreated at casting/sittings/agency and there should be more health regulations to make sure models are being healthy and encourage them to take better care of themselves . Maybe a health coach/ nutritionists organized by an agency for models to talk to and get knowledge from.”
What these models don’t understand is that agencies have thousands of guys and girls who will fill their shoes if they cause to much problems, as for the “plus size” well I agree some curves are fine, it’s that when you have someone who has their stomach hanging over the clothing that cause people to cringe at the term plus sized, some have made the comment about being “healthy” being over weight is not healthy no matter how you look at it! People are getting fat and lazy and think the industry should change so they don’t have to loose weight to get hired!!!! Yes people should get paid and models have every right to get paid for the work they do but to many models demand payment from photographers and expect to tell the photographer or client how the shoot is going to go, try going to a regular 9-5 job and tell your boss your going to do the job how you think it should be NOT how they want it done!!! You’ll be unemployed so fast your head will spin!
Now as far as the race thing, if the model can sell the product I don’t think color of skin should matter at all.
I know most models are going to get all bent out of shape by my words and that’s fine, the truth of the matter is that the industry is already to soft on models now days, other wise we wouldn’t have the excuse makers and flakers making it impossible to know 100% that the shoot will go on. Maybe it’s time to purge the system of all photographers AND models and start fresh and restart the agencies with agents who care.
Paul from your words it is very obvious you come from an privileged background and most likely are a white male.
‘People are getting fat and lazy and think the industry should change so they don’t have to loose weight to get hired!!!!’ – NO THIS IS SO INCORRECT SOMEONE SHOULD SPIN YOUR HEAD! ‘Plus Size’ models are usually around the size 12-18 mark – in the real world these are the sizes of most woman.
Models are pressured by agencies and photographers (whether realising or not it can be simply their everyday language used when to describe the girl or how the clothing fits) to lose weight constantly and eating disorders and mental health are a VERY serious issue. Also your insensitive use of the word ‘purge’ is actually gobsmacking.
Change within the industry starts with clear thought and communication, not insults and pigheaded ness.
It has to come from the way in which we as a industry see the ideals of ‘fashion’ and the way it is represented. Less photoshop, real sized bodies and not idolising those within the industry that cause shame/ damage and fall into old stereotypes of what fashion should be.
Really? I have an opinion so I come from a privileged background and I have to be white? Sounds like someone is racist!!!
I’ve been “in the industry” longer than most of you models have and have nothing but respect for the models who work their asses off and don’t whine about doing their jobs.
I hope some of you decide to step back and think about some of the things you are thinking and saying and you are successful in the industry.
I do agree that models deserve privacy while changing. As far as photographers snapping pictures of them back stage I don’t think it should be allowed, as for private changing rooms at big fashion shows…. that has to make it super hard on designers and their staff to make sure everything is being worn as it’s supposed to be worn, but it’s “obvious” I must not be “in the industry”!!!
Again I hope you all have the best of luck changing the industry to your liking…..
I feel like you must not be part of the industry at all…
Every model DOES understand that agencies have thousands of candidates that will fill their shoes and that’s where all the problems start! You’re not the only one who has cracked that little code…
I’m a tall, thin, white, female model. I have light eyes and cute freckles- people would say the industry is built for me. And I’m making enough money to put a slew of kids through college if I needed to. I have every excuse to stick my head in the sand. But I also have the ability to look at the world around me. The body acceptance conversation isn’t just so “fat girls” can be models!!! It’s so we as an industry can RESHAPE THE FUTURE. The content we put out shapes the minds of girls, boys, women and men across the globe. If we paint a picture of diversity in age, race, sex, body type, etc it will leave long lasting affects on how individuals in all parts of the world view themselves and people around them. Before you say that’s not the industry’s job,
You’re wrong. They made it their responsibility a long time ago. It is not longer about art and creativity. At all. So crawl out of your bubble, and look at the big picture here.
In addition to you thinking being “overweight” is from laziness you’re wrong. Everyone’s body is built differently. It’s science. Women aren’t meant to have a 34” hip. It takes little discipline for me to maintain a show ready physique while my friend works out daily, is a model & yoga instructor, eats a plant based organic diet and she is in fact a plus size model. Her skin glows brighter and she has more energy than any of those skinny girls on the runway. So you tell me who seems healthier.
When it comes to getting paid the only reason I get paid out by all my agencies is because I have built a professional team around me who I have to PAY that demands money from accounting on my behalf. I worked a part time job in highshool where I never once had to ask my retail store manager or turn to the higher ups in this worldwide company for my paycheck. I was 15. They gave me the money for the hours I put in every two weeks.
I don’t know where you’re getting your information from. But the industry isn’t “soft on models” they like to put out an image that they are. The same people who are shouting out GIRL POWER! Are the people who are cutting girls from their shows because they decide last minute that some small physical detail about their body doesn’t “fit into the lineup” all the sudden. Unless you’re a model, experiencing these things first hand. Take your opinions & sit down.
SAG AFTRA is amazing for actors. No industry will ever be required to behave respectfully to their workers if noone is their to protect their rights.
*there
@Paul L
Sure, but we if we are talking longevity, agencies need to adjust as well. If we take the “plus size” out of the equation, a lot of demeanor problems still need light shun upon. I have worked as a model for years, and I still get shivers thinking back how I got treated certain places. Not all agencies needs to change. But some do.
When it comes to “getting the job done” – I agree with you. Models need to take directions. For sure. But, when it comes to plain mistreatment, this should never be tolerated.
Have a good day
I’m 6 foot 1 and 1/2 (woman) and I was never able to work shows during ready to wear seasons. I could only work during haute couture shows in Paris and even… I have always been to tall for this industry. The only designer who would hire me was Margiela. The only show I worked and met models as tall as me! I was told by numerous casting directors that they wanted all the models to look the same height during finales and it was just so frustrating. ALSO being taller than most girls, of course my body is a bit wider so on top of being too tall I would never fit in any samples… Imagine a 6 foot 1 and 1/2 girl weighting 125 pounds. That’s how skinny I was and I was never able to book jobs. Too tall, too wide, but still so skinny. If the industry had been more inclusive maybe I could have book more jobs. (that was 2007-2009)
@PaulL is exactly the type of guy who keeps a broken system going for the benefit of guys like himself. 100% sure he’s an old white guy.
Having to wait months or years for a pay check is absurd! Many models travel and run out of funds to even get around due to this.. Food should definitely be provided at all times just as they do for the top models. The plus size thing I don’t agree on I’m sorry, I agree with models fitting the sample size call me old fashioned but plus size isn’t attractive. Photographers can be very rude and inconsiderate at times do they should have rules set in place that they can only come backstage when all models are dressed, it’s common courtesy.
Why should plussize be ignored, because you personally find it unattractive? Mixing up body types has a direct influence on how young people develop their body image and selflove. Just injecting the fashion world with more +36 bodies has a huge and positive impact. And please don’t come with the ‘unhealthy’-speech, it’s proven that if young kids find recognition in models/magazines, it benefits their mental ànd physical health.
And now let’s talk about the countless photographers who work tirelessly and absolutely free-of-charge to develop these models’ portfolios so that they can get jobs and forget about those who helped them get there even if they claim to be unpaid for weeks or months at a time after the fact.
There have always been problems within the industry, some easily solved, but most others not. For every model wanting to be treated a “certain way”, there are literally a thousand or more standing behind him or her ready to take their place that is willing to accept most conditions and willing to do what others wont to get that “gig” and or exposure. As long as this dynamic exists, the industry will be very difficult to change. Billy Joe Davis / DAVISICON
i don’t understand why nobody mention how casting directors disrespect models who are not new faces anymore but not too old yet, who already done few good seasons but weren’t lucky to get in hot list/top 50 or whatever. i know how to work with a camera, i know how work my face and body, i’m interesting as a person, this words by clients, not mine.
And casting directors just work with new faces all the time. i don’t understand why luck of experience in honor today. why this industry don’t respect quality, i just can’t get that
Getting Paid:
Models should definitely get paid for the work that they do hands down. However, an agency can not pay you if they have not been paid. These designers and companies should be held more in the spotlight on paying the agencies and models like a industry public black list.
If a client doesnt have the money to book the model at the time of hiring he or she should not book the model it is unfair for the models to purposely hire them for your own benefit and if put the agency specially small ones in a bad situation.
The system is out of date and the money should come the same day as the job like when you go shopping and then sent to a software system that marks the date of payment and when fees are taken out and when it is deposited to the models account where both agency and model can see it at all time.
SIMPLE, EASY, EFFECTIVE – im not a tech genius but im sure it will come this year or next
Protocol and Treatment
There should be private changing room of course for the models. Models who are 15 Years old-17 years old there is no excuse for your parents to not read the contract,ask questions and do research about the industry. Saying models should be 18 is silly because then thats like saying there should be no children or teen tv shows you grew up watching with actors under 18.
Models who are under 18 should should always have a parent, or guardian with them unless 16 years old and parents approve of them traveling solo. Agency fees should be printed in the contract which im sure most are but that way you as a model can calculate your earnings. Models it is your job as well to educate yourself about the industry you are trying to get into it goes both ways.
Photographers should not be taking photos while models are changing for sure and it is up to the models and the people around to say something there is nothing wrong with saying something if you feel a job is way more important then your pride and dignity then that says a lot more about you. people wont ever know if something is a problem unless you speak up and it is our job to speak up all of us.
Diversity:
There is a huge gap in “Diversity” around the world in agencies, and the industry itself if we are being frank how many black people own companies in the fashion industry ??? seems that they are ownly models and like 4 creative designers…. but that is another story for another day.
As for modeling agencies :
A casting director is sent a package of models and yes you may be Asian, a Latina or black however if you don’t have the look they are going for doesn’t mean you didn’t get the job because you are that color, and yes you may have been the only minority in the package the issue I think that is really big is who the agency decides to sign to their board.
A lot of agency owners are over 35+ males and not even woman so that says a lot. In most countries the board of models are lacking diversity which means the packages that they are sending to casting directors don’t have people who look like the people who live in their own country sad but true.
Designers, casting directors, and magazines need to tell agencies send me a Latina, a brown skin girl, & i need a plus size .. also Plus size is not the average weight of women around the world if we are being frank because no offense but it is very unhealthy to be size 14 and up. But I am aware that there are people this size mainly here in America but most of the those people do not buy high fashion clothes because most are in the medium to lower class.
Agencies need to include the real average women who in fact is not 34-24-34 nor a size 14 the real average women are the size 4-10. These women seem not to be advertise because they are simply not skinny nor fat and yes plus size is fat according to medical study not being mean just honest but I would include you can be sexy at any size and there should be a market for everyone for sure.
Also there needs to be better representation of black women specially for Americans most people only cast models who have super short or no hair news flash most women in America do not i repeat do not look like these models and we dont go outside with kinky hair or messy hair most straighten their hair and experiment with color and styles just like other women.
These black beautiful models who are flown in from the Caribbean islands and Africa are not what African Americans looks like ?? I mean you literately flown in foreigners to advertise them as African American???? Really and to present this to brands seems as if your trying to stick to a narrative of black women don’t have hair or all have big lips and are all very dark skin. Then you cast tan latina’s as if they are african american when in fact you dont embrace their latina roots…. anyway long story short on diversity we need a lot of work!!
Health and Body Image
Weight: you can be skinny and still healthy we dont see people attacking long distance runners for their body weight?? Alof of women like to pick at women they dont look like lets be clear. Everyone be happy in your skin and make sure you eat right but dont say someone isnt healthy beacuse there lack of weight and yes plus size is still unhealthy.
health and dental care programs : This is a big fat no most models dont even live in america and are on working visa for their short stays which cost a lot, model apartment, pocket money etc your parents or state or country already provides health care and dental care. and there are plenty of clinics that can help you if you need help. It is not the agencies job to treat you as a child period educate yourself and get travel insurance for emergencies..
mental and physical health: if you have mental problems it is up to you as a model to inform an agency before signing lets be serious everyone looks healthy on the outside untill you get into the model apartment and people find out your a little mental. Open communication is all it is SPEAK UP and make sure you have a letter approved by your doctor to travel.
saw this comment:
“Also I do not want to hear I am too fat or what is the problem with your skin”
you are a model your job is to represnt yourself in the best way. you know the measurment requirement going into the indutry and If an agency is asking about your skin .. that is a health concern which is exactly what you models are asking them to do treat you as a humans and help you clear your face up. if you dont like honesty your not going to like the real world.
Note: my spelling may be off .. grammer too .. im just stating facts you can agree or disagree on somethings or all im open.
So wait, you make a statement that not all skinny bodies are unhealthy (which is right), but follow it up with a prejudice about plussize. Plussize modeling starts from size 38, so everyone bigger than that should be considered unhealthy in your eyes?
We need to give the power back to the models agents, cause the casting directors are asking for always brand new models & the clients are listening to them like they’re powerful but without models agent a casting director is lost!
i left a comment on your page about how african models have little to no chance at achieving anything internationally. this was ignored and not published, which is exactly what i was fighting for! when is it that African model’s will be considered models in this industry?! original african from the actual continent – it has model’s trying to make it to Vogue and runways and New York you know?!
Behaviour
I faced to russophobia during the castings and some photo shoots and that was a bit sad. As an intelligent woman, I think eurocentrism is unacceptable in any case and models could work in the foreign country without any restrictions. Let’s accept the fact that politic situation couldn’t work against models’ talent and we must have decent conditions for living and working. We don’t need much, but sometimes I felt mistreated when I stayed dehydrated on job, when the shoes were small, when some music played like false feminist Kendrick Lamar’s Humble on set, when the photographer didn’t speak English, when you came back from rehearsal and the press ate all of your food on a backstage, when you need to queue up on heels for a long time without the opportunity to have a seat, when dressers’ “help” prevents you from dressing up properly. This endless list is really funny till they called us “difficult” or “unprofessional” just because we disagree with this behaviour towards us. These things need to be fixed and clients with complaints need to understand that models have all rights to say that they feel uncomfortable without being judged. Objectification of models concern me a lot, we should dress up like “nobody” or wear a nude makeup because designers can’t imagine us in a different look. Even if we are looking “blank” every model is the person with own style and sense of beauty, but nowadays double standards more interested in the number of followers that models have rather than individuality. I felt like a puppy who gnawing a sofa when I got kicked from mother agency in my 25 because I’m not a “good boy”, so I think my carrier is not in my own paws anymore.
We Speak reps health conscious models (of ALL sizes, healthy isn’t a size or BMI) in NYC & Seattle. WS protects its models and helps solve/fight a lot of these issues.
https://wespeakny.com/about-us
Not getting jobs because of a certain breast size that’s considered “desireable”
I am a hairstylist and makeup artist
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