Industry, Now
PHILLIP PICARDI
PHILLIP PICARDI
Portrait by Ben Hassett for Models.com
#IndustryNow The cycles of social media impel us to embrace then move on from trends and discourses faster than ever before. The life span of a single work––an editorial, a campaign, a show, a stint––is shorter for it. Fashion’s only unconditional term is the future: operating a year ahead, after all. So, in an industry where change and relevancy are the full stops at the end of every sentence, Models.com wanted to highlight individuals who add permanence to the community–some at their start and some at their top. Photographer Ben Hassett gets up close and personal for Models.com with the creative forces often behind the scenes. They are the Industry, Now.
Phillip Picardi will never just be known for his most recent position, which is, as of summer of 2018, the editor-in-chief of Out Magazine. Instead a mention of his name calls to mind a bigger picture, a bigger plan––it’s part of his allure. He has been collecting titles since his favor with Wintour propelled his whirlwind ascent from intern to editor, starting under the umbrella of Condé Nast and its multiple glossies. The under-30 American-born editor has held rank as chief content officer for Teen Vogue and Them, the latter founded by Picardi himself specifically as a platform for the LGBTQ community. His Midas touch is evidenced by the oft-quoted figure 2 to 12 million, citing the surge in unique visits to TeenVogue.com when his style of socially-pointed content pushed the publication out of its comfort zone and into the civil and political conversation. His emphasis on queer voices meant his installation at Out after departing his much-lauded Condé seat felt like a certain amount of providence at work, or in the case of a man who rarely miscalculates, a decisive move to pivot him where he can make the most impact. Whatever the future holds, Mr. Picardi has proven he is one of the most exciting, engaged editors to watch.
How has the heightened attention to self-image influenced your work and craft?
People who feel marginalized or off-put by a ‘heightened attention to self-image’ have probably had little consideration for what it’s felt like for those of us who rarely saw ourselves represented in multi-dimensional ways. Through my work, I’ve gotten to know myself better, but I’ve also been able to explore my universe in ways I didn’t imagine were possible.
Have the reasons you started doing what you do changed along the way?
I originally wanted to be the Beauty Director of Vogue — now, the majority of my efforts focus on work outside of beauty and even outside of fashion, editing pieces about politics, sexuality, and beyond. My dreams have changed so much in the past three years that I’m no longer even sure what my long-term goals might be.
What was the turning point in your career?
Arriving as the editorial director of Teen Vogue at 23 with the attitude of, “Well, I guess this will be worth a shot.”
Is making beautiful things enough?
Absolutely. We cannot always be surrounded by words of trauma, analysis, criticism. Sometimes, we all need our moments to feel beautiful, celebrated, and spend our time dreaming of possibilities, not pitfalls. That’s where the mind can really wander! I think beauty — and allowing people to feel beautiful — is essential.
What’s your favorite part of the process?
When the images come back from a shoot, and I get to see the faces of all the brilliant people who worked so hard and so tirelessly on it gather around and look at the incredible thing they’ve somehow pulled together.
I love the passion that flows through the screen itself! You can tell when people enjoy what they do WITH A PASSION! Strong moivating energy. Reading this amazing composed article really allows us the readers feel what the model feels as well. It gives us an insight on what goes on aside from being a pretty face behind a camera it shows us these stunning people are almost normal like us. I remember binge watching Americas Next Top Model and so strongly wishing to be in the show one day AND win. I hope to chase this dream and get discovered I get told I look like I am someone who models or I should model because I look exotic but never had resources to start chasing the dream. I would love some guidence and i would so make use of it and when i become big I will thank endlessly to the person who helped me fly! Keep up the amazing work – xoxo