Pt.1 Arthur Arbesser
On May 22nd, LVMH will announce the winner of their 2015 Young Fashion Designer Prize from a pool of 8 finalists – Arthur Arbesser, Coperni, Craig Green, Faustine Steinmetz, Jacquemus, Marques’Almeida, Off-White, and Vetements. Started in 2013, the prize was launched to champion standout talent and foster their labels. Winning means getting a seal of approval from a jury of fashion’s foremost designers and industry professionals like Nicolas Ghesquiere, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, and LVMH’s own Delphine Arnault. Aside from being recognized by the industry, the winner receives a 300,000 euro grant and a year’s worth of expert support from the foundation. Of course, success in the industry for these designers isn’t reliant on winning, but it certainly sets the stage.
Presenting Models.com’s exclusive week-long spotlight on each of the designers in anticipation of their final presentation at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris and the announcement of the winner on May 22nd.
The LVMH 8
Photography: Steven Yatsko for Models.com
Stylist: William Graper @ The Wall Group
Art Direction: Stephan Moskovic
Hair: Takayoshi Tsukisawa
Makeup: Kim Weber
Production: Jazmin Alvarez
Photo assistant: Jason Acton
Manicurist: Natalie Pavloski @ LMC Worldwide
Portrait courtesy of the designer
Text by Irene Ojo-Felix
Models:
Mona Matsuoka / IMG
Grace Simmons / Next
Arthur Arbesser’s roots in Vienna have driven his attention to detail, love for clean lines and traditions, a heritage he has leveraged into a bold design viewpoint. Crediting his line as “a personal expression of feelings, thoughts and my aesthetic” he has risen in a relatively short time from virtual unknown to LVMH recognition. For his past Spring 2015 season, he decided to pay homage to German artists Isa Genzken and Blinky Palermo with a focus on geometric tailoring, transparent knitted nylon and pieces that had a mix of materials and colors. The result was a spirited showing of unique textiles, boyish silhouettes, and in-your-face punches of color.
A Central Saint Martins graduate, Arbesser credits the intensive design school as pushing him to go beyond what is safe. “We learned to find our own way of expression and that you don’t have to fit in but rather listen to your instinct. And that’s something that comes in very handy right now.” After London, the designer moved his operations to Milan where he worked with Armani for seven years and was charmed by the “real quality of life, factories and everything concerning fabrics and production being near by”. However, he recognizes that the current Milanese structure is not as helpful for new designers compared to its fashion capital counterparts. “It actually is an ideal place to work and focus, although support for young designers is rare. There is unfortunately no real system here that helps emerging brands overcome the initial struggle. But I still love Milan.”
And what will the young designer do with his award if won? “Lots of open bills are to be paid!! But also the mentoring from the LVMH experts and help with my company structure would be a real dream come true.”
I would like participate