Beauty Papers is the two issue old publication with a predilection for all things beauty. That much can gathered from its title alone. But one look inside its sophomore release and it’s clear the brainchild of Maxine Leonard steers vehemently clear of any sort of prix fixe beauty others are serving. Beauty Papers is Maxine’s visual adage endeavoring to articulate a more modern language of makeup-ing. Inside is a cosmetic playground, the respective efforts of beauty veterans and photographers letting loose their explorative ideas of application, color and medium. We spoke to its editor in chief Maxine Leonard about the magazine and more, plus check out the preview of issue 1 “Plastics” below.
When did humor come into play for Beauty Papers or into your idea of beauty in general?
Humour like beauty is personal. Our approach is to hopefully inspire, the result in how this is viewed is left to the reader as to whether they sense or identify humour. I think it is emotive, however read. There is no beauty without emotion.
What was the most difficult part of conception for issue 1 (the second issue)?
Beauty Papers is at the start of its journey so we really don’t think in terms of ‘difficult’ because it is a very exciting time for us.
We chose ‘plastic’ because it defines the world we live in, and it has long been the byword for celebrity culture, the cult of plastic people-‘Fakeness’ is a look and lifestyle pursued by legions of women and men. And then there is the sheer joy of the material itself, the qualities of stretch, transformation and transparency. Plastic is defined by being easily shaped or moulded, which for us, is also a metaphor for how we change and mould ourselves to survive, fit in, and even succeed.
What were some conceptual guidelines and shoot dos and don’ts given out?
We explored the concept visually and culturally and created a collection of inspiration material that we shared with all our collaborators, they asked questions, observed and found their particular perspectives sometimes opening doors on less comfortable issues and ideas we encounter everyday. Plastic was the platform and from this dreams were created of exquisite fantastical extremes and contradictions. Without the dreams and dream makers where would we be? We have an open dialogue with all the artists that work with us but there are no do’s and don’ts. That is what is so exhilarating.
How has your own perspective of editorial beauty changed and what was missing that made you want to start the magazine?
On this journey there have been several occasions that have changed my perspective and made me reevaluate my approach. I interviewed Christiaan for issue 0 and the meeting was timely. He told me I would make mistakes and that it was never about agenda, it was about friends working together. I interviewed Serge Lutens and he told me not to lower my flag. Most importantly I met Valerie who restored my faith and reignited my belief and passion. Beauty Papers is about artists working together and inspiring each other. It is about community and creation, something we felt was lacking.
Heather Kemesky by Liz Collins (Camilla Lowther Management) | Stylist Way Perry | Hair Samantha Hillerby (Streeters London) | Makeup Maxine Leonard (Jed Root) | Manicurist Jenny Longworth (Camilla Lowther Management) | Casting Shelley Durkan (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Leila Goldkuhl by Paola Kudacki (Camilla Lowther Management) | Stylist Akari Endo-Gaut (New York: FRANK REPS NY, Los Angeles: FRANK REPS LA) | Hair Kevin Ryan (Art + Commerce) | Makeup Mathias van Hooff (Management + Artists) | Casting Shelley Durkan (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Anabel Krasnotsvetova by Julia Noni (Chris Boals Artists CBA) | Stylist Vittoria Cerciello (New York: FRANK REPS NY, Los Angeles: FRANK REPS LA) | Hair Franco Gobbi (Streeters New York) | Makeup Violette (Management + Artists) | Manicurist Eri Handa | Casting Shelley Durkan (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )
Briley Jones by Ben Hassett (Management + Artists) | Stylist Anna Trevelyan (Camilla Lowther Management) | Hair Peter Gray (Home Agency) | Makeup Isamaya Ffrench (Streeters London) | Manicurist Martha Fekete (Bryan Bantry)
Olivia Jansing by Marcus Ohlsson (London: D + V Management , New York: D + V Management, Stockholm: LUNDLUND) | Stylist Michelle Cameron (New York: FRANK REPS NY, Los Angeles: FRANK REPS LA) | Hair Rita Marmor (Streeters New York) | Makeup Benjamin Puckey (London: D + V Management , New York: D + V Management) | Manicurist Honey (Exposure NY) | Casting Shelley Durkan (New York: D + V Management, London: D + V Management )