He is Helmut Lang, the Austrian born designer who shows out of Paris. He's had every sash from "Deconstructionist" to "Classicist" mounted on his sensibility and both these extremes are wanting.
Lesser designers have shamelessly cribbed the accessible cool of his slim pantsuits and one shoulder T's, merged with his revolutionary use of synthetic fabrics. When fashion punters begin to testify to the genius of the use of new "shiny" fabrics to modernize "classic" shapes,
in essence you are hearing a subliminal tribute to Lang's years of research and experimentation.