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Craig McDean: He created a whole different approach to fashion photography (conceptual and architectual) that is still being copied to this day. And of course he's wisely moved on to a dynamic and spontaneous new style that bodes well for the future.
Steven Meisel: Ambition on that scale needs to be commended especially when executed with such consistent acuity. Meisel is fashion intelligent in a way most photographers will never be. And LA or not, he is still the #1 model maker in fashion culture. All hail.
Helmut Newton: The legend! No-one has ever matched his ability to explore the sadism inherent in the idea of chic. Word of advice to young models:if booked for a shoot one would be best advised not to request to keep the Polaroid.
His photographs have a stunning organic clarity that sweep them far away from the limits of mere fashion. Theatrical yet spontaneous, moody yet inspiring, his criminally under-apreciated Miu-Miu campaign is actually far more expressive of the brand than the Prada contingent may have realized.
Terry Richardson: The man said it himself. Its far easier to shoot a shocking image that cannot be published, than to create a subtle yet subversive visual that does indeed see the light of day. That said we wait with bated breath to see how the theory holds up in the new Tommy campaign.
Paolo Roversi: King of large format photography and a man with a thoroughly poetic eye, he is one of the few who truly elevates fashion photography to something on the brink of timeless art.
Thomas Schenk: Another master of the modern beauty shot, his eye, his casting and his lighting forms a climatic aesthetic that is so strong and so timeless, it's inevitable that he'd be conscripted by American Vogue. A fully deserved career pinnacle.
David Sims: Youth culture's leading light (Photographer's Division). His work is at its best when he looks back to the lost days of council flat boys and parish girls. Which is not to say his fashion work is any less compelling when touched with his signature earthiness.
The most innovative boy in his class, Sorrenti consistently comes up with scenarios and set-ups that are completely original and refreshingly 'reference' free (see the Jil Sander campaign). Certainly lived the 'Blow Up' myth didn't he.
The sole commercial survivor of the post-grunge , Neo-Realist school of fashion photography, he shrewdly retooled his casually downmarket aesthetic and went status with it. The results (Remember that Stephanie Seymour shoot in W?) are inarguable.
Mario Testino: Mr Glossy himself. His devotion to such un-avant pursuits such as sex, chic, and aristocrats has made him the darling of the Glam Forever corporate contigent. His bread is well buttered.
Micheal Thompson: What happened? Recently via Dutch and W he's just skyrocketed to be so shockingly directional one wonders if its some sort of midlife crisis transalated into brillaint visuals.
Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin: This unique partnership is on the brink on entering a new level of commercial success and influence. Because of their integrity and focus they have proven that fashion in the post-photo-shop age, can indeed retain a breathtaking quality of chic.
Bruce Weber: Time waits for no man but for Bruce Weber its like the 90's never happened. Still spewing out those luscious prints, still hosting the most glamrous youth camp in all of fashion and still serving up unapologetic slices of All-American beefcake. Now that's dedication.
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Vincent Peters:
Mario Sorrenti:
Juergen Teller: