Siki Im has never been one to shy away from the darker sides of masculinity, and he put his penchant for progressive design to good use for Spring 2014, riffing on prison and hospital uniforms in a collection that bristled with tense energy. See the images here shot exclusively for MDX.
Sasha Luss gets primped backstage / All photos by Billy Rood for Models.com
We’ve come to expect a certain clean polished beauty look at Helmut Lang each season, but for spring Hannah Murray and the NARS team shock things up with a glossy red pout that added glamour into the mix. “This look is an elevated version of the typical Helmut Lang girl. The skin is very fresh, flushed and sporty, with a cherry lip,” Murray quipped backstage. The source of the enviable pout – a combo of NARS’ Het Loo and Golshan Satin Lip Pencils custom mixed by artists. In addition to the statement lip, the look featured sleek, slicked back hair and a glittering Essie manicure.
An array of bright colors by Essie – for the show they used the pale pink Sugar Daddy.
Makeup artists tap the lipcolor onto Patrycja Gardygajlo‘s lips.
Paul Hanlon’s team created slick hair with a combo of UNITE’s 7 Seconds Leave In Detangler (applied to hair pre-blowout) and Session Whip which provided the slick hold without the heaviness of a gel. When asked about the hair, Hanlon pointed to the chic styles of the 90s - think Gwyneth Paltrow circa 95 or Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. “I wanted the hair to have strong, clean lines to balance the baggier clothes”
Even the short haired models got in on the action, with a little help.
Cheeks got a hint of color via Golshan Satin Lip Pencil and Fire Down Below Lipstick mixed directly onto the skin.
The final look on the runway as worn by Daphne Velghe
Baby faced beauty Holly Rose Emery burned up the runways on both sides of the pond with appearances at Jason Wu, Theyskens Theory, Marc Jacobs, Giles, Mulberry, Preen and many more. You may remember Holly from her memorable appearances during couture including appearances for Valentino and Armani Privé and that stylish strut for Miuccia Prada’s menswear show.
Images by Melodie Jeng for Models.com
Ph. Peter Michael Dills / Stringer / Getty Images
We’ve saved the best for last – all this week we’ll be unveiling our favorite collections of NYFW with special MDX coverage featuring New York’s premiere designers. See the shows that made an impact this season in a special way with exclusive images, full reviews and a birds eye view of behind the scenes. First designer up, the intrepid Jason Wu whose sleek Spring offerings set the stage for a week focused on elegance and ease – view the collection in MDX.
It wouldn’t be fashion month without a slew of parties and one of the most glamourous to date has go to be Longchamp‘s London fête to celebrate the grand opening of it’s Regent Street UK flagship. With Alexa Chung spinning on the turntables and a host of luminaries in attendance this was the event to be seen at during LFW. When Kate Moss, Mick Jagger, Coco Rocha and Zoe Saldana are front and center at a party you know it’s the place to be. Guests were treated to an all-star event featuring some of the biggest names in fashion, film and music and a first look at the limited edition London version of the label’s classic Légende bag.
That atmosphere inside the new Longchamp store – the brand’s largest in Europe.
Longchamp CEO Jean Cassegrain and actress, Zoe Kravitz
The stunning Jade Parfitt
Actress Ashley Madekwe
Jean Cassegrain and Daisy Lowe
The one and only, David Gandy
Zoe assists Alexa in the DJ booth
The always chic, Caroline de Maigret
The brand’s current face, the always lovely, Coco Rocha
Every season there is one classic blonde stunner who dominates the runway and for SS14 the distinction goes to German beauty, Anna Ewers. With an opening slot at Alexander Wang followed by appearances at Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte Anna was in high demand this NYFW. One can only wonder where she’ll turn up next, but all signs point to Ms. Ewers making her mark on only the most exclusive European catwalks.
There’s always been a sporty flair to Tim Coppens‘ designs, from the hockey padding in his Fall 2012 collection to last season’s skatewear-inspired sweatshirts, but always with a uniquely modernist European feel that separated them from other takes on so-called “sportswear” being shown in New York. For Spring 2014, Coppens looked back to the world of Seventies-era racing, giving his sleek menswear—and, for the first time, womenswear—a bold color-blocked palette and a feeling of speed. The clean silhouettes, all smooth lines and curves, were given an upgrade from the innovative high-end materials, like the coated leather of Duncan Proctor’s clean black-and-white jacket or the metal of Abel van Oeveren’s shimmering silver shorts. Andrew Westermann’s varsity jacket had padded leather sleeves that would not have been out of place on a driver careening around the streets of Monte Carlo, while Felix Reiss’ closing sleeveless bodysuit would have given any pitstop a little extra style. Coppens’ womenswear proved to be a similarly successful experiment, with clean dresses and skirt sets that had the same sharp, minimalist aesthetic of his popular pieces for the guys. Several of the models carried glinting helmets which, especially when paired with Coppens’ fresh, youthful clothing, made them look ready for anything the world had to throw at them.
It’s good to be Goodling this season – the compelling Kate burned up the NYFW runways with appearances at every show that mattered. Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Altuzarra – Kate was on the radar of every casting director in New York and her packed show list is a testament to her versatility. Whether the look called for gamine or grunge, the raven haired stunner pulled it off with ease.
When a designer looks to the minimalist brilliance of artist Dan Flavin for inspiration, you can expect a collection that is stark without being simplistic. Prabal Gurung’s striking spring showing for ICB hit all the right notes, focusing on easy to wear pieces with colors that brought to mind Flavin’s iconic florescent light fixtures. Beginning with a palate cleansing series of pale separates accessorized with white lace ups, Gurung built up anticipation before revealing a burst of color. Digital prints in shades of purple, cobalt and jet enlivened motorcycle jackets and loose fitting mini-dresses – exciting numbers sure to make waves with the youthful clientele ICB attracts. Prints aside, the most compelling moments of the collection involved either monochromatic jewel tones, or opalescent knitwear – Flavin would be pleased.
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