LA Market Report: The Cool Factor/Photogenics Pt.2

MDC’s Wayne Sterling interviews Photogenics’ founder Nicole Bordeaux – [continued from page 1]

WS: Of all the LA agencies yours seems to be the most emphatically editorial. What has the client reaction been to your board?
NB: At first we were a fish out of water. Clients liked what they saw but because we were different it took a little time to catch on and to persuade them to take a risk. At the same time the concept behind Photogenics and our aesthetic was heavily encouraged and supported by photographers, designers and editors. The unwavering support of our staff and our models is what kept our doors open for the first year. Even though our marketplace is somewhat commercial I believe that eventually the client’s tastes and casting specifics trickle down from what is on the international runway and what is selling in magazines. Every reputable agency in LA has its own niche. Ours just happens to be focused on unique faces, ethnic diversity, pop culture and upscale talent services. LA is the melting pot for many different cultures, colors and religions. I feel our image branding engages these types of demographics, which enables Photogenics to provide the marketplace with an international flavor. I wanted to offer something different rather than� blending in� to what already is. It is my belief that to build a superstar one must first start with editorial and international runway exposure. Managed correctly that exposure and PR will manifest into an international presence that attracts design houses and high dollar advertisers. I am attracted to photography and art so I only see what I see. I probably wouldn’t know a commercial model if it fell from a tree and hit me in the face. As a child I spent time in Paris and London and I was fortunate to experience iconic photography, art, beautiful clothing, designs, agencies and extremely talented hair stylists and make-up artists. As a former model, my past experiences set the pace for my future and established the direction in which I manage the talent I now represent.

WS: Tell us a little bit about the background that led you to your current position at Photogenics?
NB: When I was 21 years old and burned out from the gypsy lifestyle of a model, I started scouting during my lunch break at local malls to find young models that truly had potential. Eventually I started my own scouting company Foto Expo. After about two years Foto Expo had saturated the LA market New Faces divisions, placing 150 models with top agencies like Elite, LA models, and Ford. As time went on I became bored of doing the same thing. I started sending Polaroids to the NY magazines and clients, which surprisingly started booking the models for A level covers and ad campaigns. I was persuaded by the models to open my own agency. So in 1989 with 500 bucks, no client list and 30 models I found at local shopping malls I opened Bordeaux Model Management. Not wanting any one to know I had no staff (except for my sister who worked part time) I spent most of my day running from one side of the office to another pretending I was five different people so it would appear I had a professional agency. I was over my head but refused to believe it could not be done. With a lot of blood sweat and tears, over time Bordeaux Model Management became one of the top three modeling agencies on the West Coast. Our philosophy was to establish a high-end boutique…a “quality verses quantityâ€? modeling agency. Over time Bordeaux Model Management represented such stars as Kate Moss, Charlize Theron, Hillary Swank, and Claudia Schiffer. Even though times have changed, my beliefs and aesthetics remain the same.
In 2002 I opened Photogenics with my ex partner Marysa Malsanasky, founder of the Visages photography agency. She had the space, the photography and beauty agency background. I came in with the modeling experience. It was our goal to achieve something different, not just another modeling agency in an over saturated marketplace. In a wavering and unstable marketplace, I saw the need to diversify and start a company that could deliver the full package, and not just the models. It was my vision to create a synergistic platform combining models with the photography, the hair make-up and set design/art directors. To create a bigger picture that would make it easier for clients and maximize a way to get the whole pie instead of a slice. In theory each division could stand-alone but also be individual spikes in a wheel that turns instantaneously and in unison. In 2003, with the death of Herb Ritts (whom Visages represented), Marysa sold her shares to Dean Factor and the Photogenics operation moved to Smashbox Studios in Culver City. Luck was on my side, as 8 weeks later Smashbox Studios and 7th on Sixth merged, creating Mercedes LA Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios.

WS: Speaking of which, how do you see LA Fashion Week evolving in the future?
NB: LA Fashion Week has come along way from three years ago when the runways were made out of pieces of drywall thrown on the floor. As time evolves so has the fashion scene in LA. More and more top NY based photographers have purchased homes here, as well as important casting directors, models and designers. That being said, I predict we will be seeing A level designers from NY, Paris and Milan showing in LA. Not only from a PR and celebrity standpoint but also with the tremendous effort and support of 7th on Sixth, and the Factor brothers. Native Californian designers have proven they can make the pages of Vogue magazine and capture the attention of Anna Wintour (if only for a brief moment), and there is something to be said about the celebrity hoopla about who is to be seen and at what show. LA has most definitely evolved and I feel it’s only going to get stronger. We may not know everything about fashion but we can fill a good front row.

WS: Who are some of the local models you have scouted who have performed well in New York and European market?
NB: The Women: Lindsay Ellingson, Shay Loundre, Sarah DeAnna Bulgier, Tamara Edwards, and in the beginning of their careers Lisa Cant, Hye Rim Park, and Katja. The Men: Kian Mitchum, Michael Asange, Derrick Hayes, Edward McMann, and Travis Cantrell.

WS: What would you say is the future direction for Photogenics?
NB: Now that we recently added the Photogenics Men’s division headed by internationally known and respected Spencer Salley, we have a stronger base to build from. It is our intention to expand into a three headed management company and build our production department and our beauty agency. It is our goal to personally manage exceptional talent, making the cross over to film and television. And farther down the line, creating brands, and production deals that our talent would normally have to search out for.

WS: Finally Nicole, what do you think is the unique qualities that LA offers to the blue chip fashion photographers, designers and magazines right this minute?
NB: LA offers many things unlike other cities… beautiful beaches, mountains, deserts all within a 60 mile radius. LA is the melting pot for different cultures creating an interesting, and colorful backdrop. Every top photographer and magazine wants to photograph a rock star or Academy Award winning actress. Mix that with locations, warm weather, VIP passes, and a parking space…it’s a no brainer. As for the designers, the rich colorful architecture, textiles, communities and emphasis on who is wearing what, I feel, makes LA desirable. Blend that with celebrity pages in People and In Style magazine and I am confident to say we will see more and more East Coast fashion elite heading West.