After a Spring collection that basked in the glow of a projected searing yellow sun, Patrik Ervell went into the woods for Fall 2013, working off the idea of the forest as antithesis to the city. The only literal manifestation of that theme was a forest print that popped up here and there, but the overall feel was indeed one that seemed to push back against civilization. There was a sense of apprehension throughout the show, from the ominous pulse of the soundtrack by Slowdive to the heat blanket runway of glistening silver—a set-up that served as a subtle reminder of his iconic Fall 2008 pieces that reworked gold thermal blankets into jackets. David Hlinka helped set the tone, opening with his wool cap pulled low over his eyes, its armor-like molded-carbon-fiber brim serving as protection against the world outside. Max von Isser’s nylon satin trousers and Robert Laby’s quilted jacket were other nods in the same direction, as was Ian Smith’s closing luminous emerald rain poncho. Shades of green were a through line in the collection, adding a dark glow to, for example, Jake Shortall’s suit. Ervell sent out several examples of his characteristically sharp take on suiting, cut slim and high in a way that looked effortless. His continuing fascination with outerwear appeared to be going strong as well, with a robe coat taking its place alongside his usual desirable macintoshes and flight jackets. The dark tone of the collection was undeniable, but the clothes were, as usual, nothing less than a highlight of the season.
Text by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Kirt Reynolds for models.com