10. Wilhelmina
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PRO: If this ranking were to evaluate the most profitable modeling agencies, Wilhelmina with its multiple divisions and its relentless business drive would be nicely nestled among the top (with Next and Ford also clustered at that Mt Olympus of revenue). One client surveyed offered the very valuable insight that "Wilhelmina makes a killing on those $5,000 a day jobs some agencies are too chic to consider." What this means to an aspiring model is if you want to go for the money, Wilhelmina will stand you in good stead. And with resources like those at Wilhelmina's disposal and the diversity of commercial divisions this agency offers, they are well equipped to spring a viable "high-editorial" wing.

CON: The editorial high market has been traditionally resistant to Wilhelmina and in many ways the A-list campaigns as well as some key editorial outposts are still holding out. That said, an incredibly cool girl is going to have her own undeniable gravitational pull and now that the wall is breached, all Wilhelmina has to do is develop that force-of-nature who all clients must have all the time. It could be you.

SCOUTING CALL: The culture of Wilhelmina has been imprinted by its father Dieter Esch to keep the eye on the cash. Current President Sean Patterson has stayed true to those principles while leaving the door open for the high fashion brigade to put their bids in. For a variety of reasons this agency is truly on the hunt to find those faces who will re-define and refine their image as a brand.

Liu Dan

PRO: The agency formerly known as Karin NY has undergone some very big changes in 2005, not least of all being a name change to MC Squared. As President Jeff Fuller outlined to MDC on November 22nd in our OTM column, "MC2 focuses on creating the right editorial connections for our new models while not losing sight of the long term management of the model’s career, and making sure that those editorial outlets and connections eventually translate into substantial income for the individuals we represent." Translation? MC2 is in the business of cool and with an incredible find like Ieva (Marc Jacobs campaign S/S 06 ), this maverick outpost could cycle up the big leagues in 2006.

CON: It’s going to take some clever marketing on the part of Mr. Fuller for clients to process the existence of a MC Squared, even as another agency opens under the name of Karin in NY. Whatever the politics of that conflict, the meat of the matter will come down to which agency has that vital and compelling board that the directional clients will embrace. As it is, MC Squared has bolted out of the block with the aforementioned "cool clients". It will now be interesting to see if a new name will mean a new level of gamesmanship.

SCOUTING CALL: If approached, definitely sit down and have a conversation with the relevant MC Squared scout or booker. Sitting at the head of this cryptic pyramid is agency owner Jean Luc a man who has been in the business for 30 years and that is a very audacious achievement.

Omahyra | Photo: Ellen von Unwerth

8. NY Models
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PRO: NY Models has evolved into one of the most thorough and energetic scouting operations in the business. They're small and vigorous and fight to get their girls on the map with a consistency that is a new model's dream come true. Owner Heinz Holba's ambition is a lot more aggressive than most might have presumed as he already has one of the most active new US model searches in motion, as well as big plans for the future of this high-editorial shop.

CON: It’s been a tough year for the hardworking team at NY Models with the lion's share of the business being gobbled up by IMG, DNA and Women. With the global mother agencies streaming their freshest prospects to these big three it becomes tougher and tougher for a smaller shop like NY Models to maintain their position in the booking wars. For NY Models to be a true power player, they need to cover the whole spectrum now. That means luring some Big Name girls, the massive money models as well as the incredibly cool girl they consistently develop here.

SCOUTING CALL: If "unique" is your calling card, then a passionate and hardworking body of agents are on standby to push and promote you with every erg of their energy.

7. Major
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PRO: In their own quiet and unobtrusive way, Major has secured its place in the midst of the ruthless and predatory NY modeling scene. Their key editorial girl, Tiiu, stayed put and has been well rewarded for that loyalty by landing a lucrative J'Adore fragrance gig as well as a Cover Girl contract. At the same time, Major also managed to diversify their board with very promising new faces such as Dahlia and Diana. Again it just goes to prove that the predictable editorial management "grid" exemplified by booking a girl to (Steven/Mario/Mert-n-Marcus /Inez and Vinoodh) for (Vogue/Pop/Numero/V/W) in order to get (Gucci/Prada/Calvin/Fendi) campaigns is not a proposition exclusive to the IMG's and DNA's. Clients look everywhere for the Next Big Thing. And that's very good news for you, the aspiring model.

CON: Ironically what makes for an excellent virtue in a human being can sometimes be a setback in the unkind modeling industry. Major is an honorable and quiet agency, not given to poaching girls from other agencies or demanding package bookings on their models. President Katia Sherman and her team are not cold-blooded or mercenary in the least so don't fear the "booked today-dropped tomorrow" syndrome with them. That said, if you're looking for a shop to practice your super-star diva plans for fashion world domination at the cost of everyone around you, this might not be your kind of party.

SCOUTING CALL: Keep an eye on the agents and scouts from this agency because very quietly they've done something right. If you are a girl of the quality of a Tiiu, the correct decisions can clearly be made for your career.

Hannelore

PRO: This is what is brilliant about Vision. The brand name is like a pristine iceberg floating quietly on the peripheries of NY's frenzied modeling world, without ever losing its cool. In the past year, this ambitious up and comer has picked up some major new investment, expanded to offices in LA and consolidated its holdings in Belgium, making it clear where the power axis of Vision lies. Importantly, Vision has that very consistent identity. As long as there are clients like Prada, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Calvin Klein and Jil Sander, the need for the intellectual chic aesthetic that Vision flagshipped remains valid. The proof of this assertion? The major coup scored by company owner Christina Park in snatching the super-cool newcomer Anne Watanabe from the jaws of some very predatory competition. A girl or two more like Anne and suddenly Vision could evolve into a formidable player.

CON: The thrill of the new may have worn off this hip little shop but Ms. Park has been shrewd in seeding multiple relationships from Brazil to Belgium. One senses it’s only a question of the right scouting alliances and the talent of that visciously hungry agent that will glide the Vision brand into the harbour currently dominated by the big ships of IMG and Women.

SCOUTING CALL: The concept of Vision remains brilliant. If you want to be very high fashion and ultra selective put Vision NY high on your list of coveted agencies.