There is in this business, something called Fashion Intelligence.

The expression sounds like a contradiction in terms but there is such a thing, Fashion Intelligence is the ability to recognize what works in a picture or on a runway and what doesn't. A lot of things that seem weird to the untrained eye, is the stuff of fashion epiphanies. One of the things fashion has to do to remain interesting is to constantly challenge people.
Fashion intelligence in a model is the ability to stand in a situation created by a photographer or editor, and be able to interpret what it is you are supposed to contribute to make the photograph click. It's the ability to feel what the hair stylist did with your hair, what the make-up artist did with your face, what is going on with your clothes and convert all that raw material into a moment.

Some models practice for years and develop that intelligence. Some practice valiantly and never get it. Some girls, amazingly beautiful, perfect to the eye, wonderful, sweet, girls - go on camera and essentially, die. Flat. Average, Boring. No fashion. No intelligence.


Photo: Liz Collins for Anna Molinari

 

The first time I saw Bekah was in a Subway sandwich shop in the Wall Street area of Downtown Manhattan. I was the stylist, she the model. I was late, she was punctual, her mother having driven her down from upstate NY for the 8.30am call time. She was wearing jeans and a T-shirt, standing arm folded, waiting for the photographer to buy the crew's breakfast. Before it registered that she was today's subject, I stopped to stare because without doing a thing she was already an amazing photograph: a normal, yet oddly elegant American teenager standing in a cheap fast food joint lit by bilious fluorescent light. It was a moment.

 

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