Earlier this week, New York joined London, Milan, and Paris on the menswear calendar with the first-ever official New York Fashion Week Men’s. Major American brands from John Varvatos and Tommy Hilfiger to Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein all took part, drawing attention to a four-day affair that also shed added light on several of the city’s promising newer designers, seven of whose clothes can be seen below, as selected by stylist and At Large Magazine fashion director Julie Ragolia, who shares her thoughts on how each represents the breadth and variety of American menswear.
The week also brought a crop of promising models to the New York shows for the first time, including the seven photographed by Kristiina Wilson below, all of whom have campaigns under their belts but had never walked a runway in New York until now. Take a look at our exclusive shoot of New York newcomers below, and hear what they like the most about the city that’s been waiting for them.
“London is busy, but New York is ridiculously busy. It’s just hectic as hell. There’s all these people and tourists—even though I’m one of them—so you just have to get used to that.”
– Tarun Nijjer on New York
“Todd Snyder understands that sportswear is always the base of American men’s style. No matter how much he may appreciate fashion’s trends, a man ultimately just wants to be able to move through his life with ease. Snyder gets that.” – Julie Ragolia on Todd Snyder
“It’s absolutely amazing because you’re constantly lost in New York. One thing happens, then another thing happens, without it being your own decision. It’s like things lead off each other, because you meet someone who bumps into another person who meets another mutual friend and it’s constant movement, movement, movement. I never plan anything when I come to New York because everything’s kind of already planned for you. The city’s already planned for you.”
– Sang Woo Kim on New York
“When I was younger, legendary photographer Arnold Newman taught me a wise lesson: understand the history of your medium. In knowing how an art form came to be, you can then break its rules. David Hart resonates in that same way for me. He’s among the few in New York who truly understand tailoring, so conceptual themes such as his Western-themed Fall collection still kick off with integrity and masculinity.” – Julie Ragolia on David Hart
“I like to be in the parks because the city’s so crowded. I’m not used to it. It’s the only place where I can take a minute of rest and remember where I come from, because Belgium is nothing like New York. No city is like New York.”
– Hannes Gobeyn on New York
“Each season, Michael designs the guy men want to hang out with and women want to date. He’s well dressed, smart, and has a great sense of humor. Come Spring 2016, women will be able to dress as his counterpart, as Bastian has added womenswear to the collection. As a woman in menswear, this is something I very much look forward to.” – Julie Ragolia on Michael Bastian
“I much prefer Manhattan. Brooklyn has a more authentic, vintage feel to it, but I much prefer the busier city lifestyle in Manhattan.”
– Sup Park on New York
“If New York menswear was a rock band, Tim Coppens would be the bass player. They’re always the hottest and most rebellious in the group.” – Julie Ragolia on Tim Coppens
“I love how when you walk around you feel like you’re on a movie set.”
– Jake Lucas on New York
“At the root of every Robert Geller collection is revolution, whether in theme, silhouette, or spirit. It takes real talent to keep that energy up from season to season. To Geller, I will always wave a flag.” – Julie Ragolia on Robert Geller
“I like that there are old buildings mixed with new buildings. I can feel the mix between the new generation and the old generation together. Compared to New York, Paris is all buildings too, but it’s really small and cute. Here it’s really in your face.”
– Matthieu Gregoire on New York
“Ryu Hayama designs and creates his collection in New York, but his Japanese roots add an interesting twist to well-studied references. His nautical-themed fall collection was one of my favorite takes on a long-familiar idea, and inspired me to add Moby Dick to the coffee table.” – Julie Ragolia on Fingers Crossed
“I’d have to say my favorite place in New York is actually our apartment in Brooklyn. We have a rooftop terrace and I’ve been spending a lot of time there just chilling out in the sun, and it’s been such good vibes. It makes me feel so at home even though I’ve only been here a few days.”
– Tom Gaskin on New York
“The Orley trio has made an art form of quirky intellectualism, bringing out a man’s inner poet-in-the-corner-at-the-party each season. I always crush on that guy. I always crush on their print cashmeres too.” – Julie Ragolia on Orley
