Francisco Costa’s look for Calvin has always been about the juxtaposition between elegance and minimalism, embracing simplicity without resorting to starkness. Spring finds Costa in a muted mood, focusing on a restrained palette of neutrals and earth tones in luxurious fabrics. Delicate tulle slip-dresses called to mind those classic spaghetti strap numbers the house’s founder used to put on the runways in the mid-nineties, but the shapes have been modernized. Waists were more defined, metallic accents added interest and sheer overlays provided a hint of sexiness. With the brand’s face Lara Stone taking her place in the front row instead of the catwalk, all doses of sensuality were deeply appreciated. Costa’s airy, elegant pieces felt fresh, especially after a season dominated by prints and color – once again, the Calvin standards prove their worth in gold.