September 27th, 2012
Gareth Pugh S/S 2013
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2013
Gareth Pugh is feeling a bit of Spanish flair, but don’t expect a literal interpretation on his runway. Pugh has made his impact on the fashion scene by creating clothes that are esoteric, unexpected and to varying degrees, outlandish. The aggressive drama of his early collections has mellowed into a kind of hard-edged elegance, no less exciting, but certainly more wearable. Pugh’s S/S 13 runway boasted an impeccable array of luxe gowns, detailed dresses and distinctive pants, nearly all of which seemed ready to step off the catwalk and onto the bodies of editors, models and other chic Parisians.
We’ve come to expect a certain level of spectacle from Pugh, but he’s far from being predictable. Each season he skillfully takes his inspirations beyond the first level of understanding and into conceptual territory. When Pugh explores flamenco dressing and mantillas, he serves them up with gothic theatrics, shrouding them in diaphanous black gauze that renders the wearer anonymous. Rather than mimic the shape of dancer’s costumes exactly, he transforms them into pants and singlehandedly makes flares cool again. Backstage took a modest view of his talents, stating that he was looking to “the silhouette of a flamenco dancer, something really tight at the knee that flares out – we tried it in a skirt and it looked awful. Luckily the pants worked beautifully.”
The pants worked and so did everything else: from the crimson shock of those blood red ensembles, to surgical precision of the leather jackets and laser cut pieces. Each element combined to make a cohesive and powerful statement and it all rested atop mile high silver accented heels that may just be the season’s statement shoe. The urbane geisha hair and crimson makeup were bewitching additions, polishing off a look that was already flawless. That single saline tear applied by Alex Box and seen dripping down the models’ proved a fittingly emotional final touch.
Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Text: Janelle Okwodu
Casting: Kannon Rajah
Styling: Katie Shillingford at Intrepid
Hair: Martin Cullen at Streeters London
Make up: Alex Box at D+V and the M.A.C Pro Team
Nails: Marian Newman for M.A.C
Set Design: Simon Costin
Headpieces: Noel Stewart