With Maggie Rizer and Liisa Winkler appearing as looks one and two respectively, Michael Kors already had our attention via his cool throwback to 90s superstars. The fact that his ebullient spring collection was a nothing but the hits showcase for the designer’s best styles was simply an added bonus. Kors specializes in cheerful, All-American classics with a touch of luxury and for Spring he focused his attentions on flirty floral dresses and separates with a cutesy vibe. Men were treated to lightweight sweaters, loafers sans socks and nautical stripes. If these looks sound familiar it’s because these are fashion hallmarks guaranteed to never fall out of favor, or out of style. Michael Kors didn’t become president of fashion’s billionaire boys club by accident – it’s clear he knows just what he’s doing. Key looks included tulle skirts embellished with the glittering three dimensional flowers and hints of the season’s key fabric – gingham.
At this point the words Michael Kors and Americana are synonyms in the fashion lexicon. Along with a handful of other influential New York power players, Kors has come to define sporty, All-American ease. Even when he delves into mod touches like geometrically patterned shifts and square-toed heels, there is still something very “summers in New England, winters in Palm Beach” about Kors’ overall aesthetic. Fans of his style are sure to be pleased with his spring offerings, which were a classic, 60s influenced mix of peaceful cloud prints, graphic stripes, kicky coats and grommet embellished shifts. On paper it sounds like a whole lotta look, but Kors’ erred on the side of caution and crafted a collection that avoided veering into ostentation. If anything the Kors look for spring focused on a pared down variant of glamour that was appealing and palatable, even if your fashion icon isn’t Ali MacGraw.
The Prabal Gurung woman gets progressively cooler each season and for spring, her look is an especially artistic merger of color and texture. The abstract modernism of Anish Kapoor’s art inspired Gurung’s work and the influence shows in the dazzling prints and atypical shapes. Opener Joan Smalls’ voluminous white pants, paired with a sheer top and structured jacket were a highlight, as were the series of ruffled gowns in griege and white that merged classic elegance with athletic chic. Add in the drop waist dresses with pockets and head-to-toe printed looks in silver and storm and you have the makings of a memorable collection.
This season Michael Kors was faced with the not-so unwelcome challenge of summing up 30 years in the business in one succinct collection. Kors handled the task admirably with a pared down yet luxurious collection filled with furs, clean lines and just the right amount of sequins to keep those front row celebrities happy. As something of an American institution, Kors’ appeal lies in his ability to add a touch of glamour to those tried and true sportswear staples while referencing his favorite icons; this crowd pleasing collection did all that and then some.
Every year the extravaganza of Victoria’s Secret’s annual show happens without a hitch, but the pink tinged glamour and tanned supermodels are only half the story. Behind the scenes of the show is controlled chaos, with a skilled team of the industry’s best working overtime to make sure the VS fantasy comes across as effortless; photographer Daniella Rech takes us into the fray for a glimpse of the reality that makes the magic possible. Experience VS like never before, only in MDX.
Hussein Chalayan S/S 10, at the Couvent des Cordeliers, Paris.
Photos by Stephan Moskovic
Photos by Stephan Moskovic
Casting: John Pfeiffer @ John Pfeiffer Casting
Models: Angelika Kocheva, Anna Gushina, Alana Zimmer, Elsa Sylvan, Charlotte di Calypso, Emma Maclaren, Olga Sherer Katharina Friedrich, Eniko Mihalik, Denisa Dvorakova, Zuzana Gregorova