February 14th, 2013
Siki Im Fall/Winter 2013
Siki Im has always been one to straddle the line between fashion and art, and his Fall 2013 collection was another winner. The look was sleek and sharp, whether in Baptiste Radufe’s overlong cardigan or Benjamin Jarvis’ camel overcoat. Pulling inspiration from Italo Calvino’s postmodern classic If on a winter’s night a traveler, Im crafted a show with a cool, intellectual air, with rounded sunglasses and hair packed with patches of color like a Jean Arp collage. There was a smooth purity to the clothes, down to the palette of mostly black. The silhouette was long and lean, starting with Yuri Pleskun’s opening coat. Im emphasized his outerwear this time around, with leather jackets, clean overcoats, and wraps and robes in a rich purple. The collection also served as a study of materials, with leather and cotton playing off soft knits and a shimmering high-tech silver. Im also established a dialogue between Calvino’s mind games and the iconic early-20th-century portraiture of August Sander, whose images of German workers inspired the sturdy aprons the models donned before returning for the finale. It was a characteristically deep and thought-through production from Im, but the clothes gave off an easy elegance, unafraid of their precocity and revealing in their beautiful simplicity.
Photos: Betty Sze backstage / Stephan Moskovic runway
Text: Jonathan Shia