Posted by Stephan Moskovic | February 13th, 2011
Few menswear designers showing in New York today demonstrate the clarity of vision of Siki Im. For Fall, he showed a collection inspired by the work of the Native American potter Maria Martinez, on models who traversed a figure eight of hand-pressed dirt to the droning sounds of traditional war dance songs. Dark, sculptural Appaloosa hats made several appearances, along with hand-woven ponchos in black and red, the few spots of color in an otherwise monochromatically inky palette that favored heavy, durable fabrics like boiled wool. Im played with a range of silhouettes, from stick-thin to billowy, a natural evolution from the shapes he worked with last season. Fake fur and feathers were woven into the hair for a modern take on traditional headdresses, while uneven hems and kimono-style blazers evoked less complicated styles of dress. Made by Eugene provided the final touch with a selection of accessories—rings, bracelets, earrings, lapel pins—formed of slightly imperfect circles that looked like miniature solar eclipses. Im noted in his program notes that his collection aimed for a “somber spirituality in returning to our roots, to Mother Earth,” illustrating just the sort of introspection and consideration we have come to expect from him.
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