Rodarte Fall/Winter 2013
The sisters Mulleavy have a way of taking diverse inspirations and reinterpreting them into garments; in seasons past they taken reference points like Japanese horror, Van Gogh paintings and Terrance Malik’s seminal film ‘Days of Heaven’ and reworked them into collections that moved past simple pastiche. You can always feel the underlying influences that guide a Rodarte collection, but they never overwhelm the clothing itself. Rather, these allusions to high art and cinema serve to ground the Rodarte runway in a larger cultural context, one that befits the sisters’ growing celebrity status. When your brand is collaborating with the likes of Starbucks, you’re no longer just fashion wunderkinds – you’ve moved into the public sphere.
Perhaps that’s why this season the Mulleavy’s chose to stay close to home, looking back to Santa Cruz for inspiration. With a runway designed to echo the look of the city’s famous boardwalk roller coaster and a series of ensembles that relied heavily on the kind of blasé cool that Californians are known for, Rodarte cemented its look for fall. Though the opening styles with their layers of textured black might seem decidedly East Coast, there was a nonchalant vibe that permeated the entire collection. Several looks featured touches that seemed to call to mind Cali surf chicks – body suits peeked out from beneath low slung trousers, transparent panels showed off hints of skin and psychedelic tie-dye patterns worthy of a Phish concert featured prominently. Considering that their isn’t a single other NYFW runway where you’ll be treated to any of this, one has to appreciate the Mulleavy’s commitment to individuality.
Text by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Billy Rood for Models.com