Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2013
As Rick Owens has evolved over the years from menswear’s dark and moody enfant terrible to a pillar of the industry with a school of acolytes of his own, he has managed to avoid the ossification that other maturing designers fall to, especially in his recent collections. For Spring 2013, there was even a surprising lightness to the clothes, stark palette notwithstanding. Owens sent out his usual array of flowing skirts, robes, and tunics, and there was a play of patchwork that added some action to the loose shapes. It’s an aesthetic that many new designers today turn to, although few have demonstrated as sure of a hand as Owens has. He seemed to deliberately step outside his comfort zone with the outerwear, as with an athletic jacket that could almost have passed for preppy and some anoraks marked with geometric striping that were rigorously modernist. Accessorized as they were with huge metal bracelets and legwarmers, however, they felt very much of a piece with the Owens vision. The models entered the runway through a column of glowing beams of light, and as the electronic beeping on the soundtrack gave way to a quasi-mystical droning of voices, they added a steady beat of their own, the clopping of their platform slides echoing Owens’ ongoing march forward.