Raf Simons S/S 14
Raf Simons may be best-known today for breathing new life into Dior with his sculptural shapes and intricate florals, but a look at the evolving aesthetic of his own men’s line offers vibrant proof of his multivalent abilities. Once regarded as an arch-minimalist (cf. his years at Jil Sander), Simons has in recent seasons pushed in a more playful direction. Spring 2014 saw him bringing in a Pop Art sensibility, emblazoning his shifts with vintage-style product logos advertising “super nylon” and the “new shape of comfort.” There was a youthful looseness to the collection, with swinging overcoats and baggy tops that drifted halfway down the thigh. Still, the silhouettes had a certain rigor to them, as in the smooth lines of Kristoffer Hasslevall’s denim coat, paired with slim trousers and candy-colored sneakers, or Alexander Ferrario’s crisp navy trench. Yannick Abrath’s forest green onesie was cinched with a striped belt, adding a bit of form to a show that otherwise surged with the bounding energy of youth and freedom and a certain naïveté.