Mugler F/W 2013

There was a distinctly hard-edged vibe to the Mugler Fall 2013 collection, a somber, structured tone of seriousness—that is, of course, if you discount the neon. Working with a military influence (most obvious in Simone Nobili’s buckled combat vest), Romain Kremer and Nicola Formichetti sent out a series of full-on, all-out looks that appeared ready for anything. The bleak harshness of the designs was leavened in places by an eye-popping palette, as in Isaac Ekblad’s full electric-blue suit, or the highlighter-green mock turtleneck that glowed beneath Adrien Sahores’ gray blazer. The various bursts of neon played off a collection that otherwise was uniformly dark and emphatically rigorous. There was still the sharp suiting the house has become known for since its relaunch, as well as several winning pieces of outerwear (we loved Benjamin Jarvis’ classic overcoat), but the overall tone lacked the light-heartedness that characterized their Spring outing. It wasn’t pessimism in the air, exactly, but there was no denying a newfound gravity.

Text: Jonathan Shia
Photos: Dirk Alexander for models.com

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