As one of the most powerful young designers around, Jason Wu has the honor of truly kicking off NYFW. The fun doesn’t really start until Wu’s show and with each season he ushers in a compelling new look that serves to set trends for the months that follow. His spring tribute to the pared down look of the mid-90s has already served to inspire countless imitators, so it is safe to say that his fall collection will be equally influential. This time around the Wu woman is an understated doyenne with a penchant for strong suiting and the kind of sensuality that whispers rather than shouts. Adriana Lima open the show in a black pantsuit with only a hint of skin revealed was a telling moment. Even the world’s sexiest woman doesn’t need to bare it all when wearing Wu – the clothes speak volumes.

With this in mind, the collection built its momentum on shapely silhouettes and luxurious details. A fur thrown casually over a very Katherine Hepburn-esque pantsuit, glossy silver t-strap pumps, a selection of clutches enhanced with croc and fox; elements that could be considered showy, but under Wu’s direction they remained tasteful. Too much good taste can spoil an otherwise fun moment, but that wasn’t the case here. With all the embellishment and exquisite craftsmanship the restraint resulted in a look that felt sophisticated and completely in line with the kinds of well-traveled and well-heeled women that make up Wu’s clientele. With the Oscars only a month away you can expect to see those finale gowns with their luminescent fabrics and sinewy curves showing up on a red carpet sooner rather than later.

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