Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2013
The Jason Wu look continues to evolve. While a few seasons ago it seemed highly unorthodox for Wu to push his label into rawer territory, now the progression towards a wilder Wu feels natural, even necessary. Wu has already gained notoriety for dressing first ladies and America’s sweetheart actresses in refined, polished clothes – now he’s enticing us with the other side of the spectrum, eroticism. With his Helmut Newton influenced Spring collection, Wu began the journey into seduction and for fall he takes things to their logical endpoint. Last season’s racy, lacy cocktail dresses have been replaced by decadent fox fur belted coats and leather vests covered in liberal amounts of mink; still sexy, but on a grander far more luxe scale.
For a designer of Wu’s skill it isn’t enough to simply attempt a concept, one has to obtain mastery of it and with this collection Wu defines his personal vision of modern sexiness. His “extreme femininity” is all about powerful, confident women who aren’t afraid to flaunt their assets or assert their love of luxury – bringing to mind campaign star and front row glamour queen, Stephanie Seymour. With streamlined silhouettes, extravagant detailing and come-hither hints of transparency, Wu crafts a compellingly provocative take on the mood of the moment. If last season was Wu’s dominatrix moment, this is his tribute to women who prefer to dominate outside of the bedroom and he provided plenty power suits, spiked heels and strong colors to help them look good while doing so.
While we probably won’t be seeing MObama in one of his sheer stripped turtlenecks, there were still plenty of options for those who prefer things demure. No one whips up a ball gown quite the way Wu does and the final dress with its alluring peekaboo and yards of violet silk georgette was just the right mix of playful and sensual.
Text: Janelle Okwodu
Photos: Stephan Moskovic
Set design by Bureau Betak