Archive for the 'Fashion Week' Category

Heels in the Sand

March 26th, 2015

Heels in the Sand

While fashion has been dragging its feet when it comes to diversity, this season heralded an optimistic turn – but for how long?
Models.com reviews the current state of diversity with several industry insiders to understand how the scales have been tipped.



Cover photos: Fall/Winter 2015 shows by Casey Vange for Models.com
Portraits courtesy of interviewees

Runway photos
YUAN BO – Valentino Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
BHUMIKA – Fendi runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images
AMILNA – Giambattista Valli Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
DYLAN -Alexander Wang Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
KARLY – Celine Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
LINEISY – Prada Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
MAE – Louis Vuitton Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images
AAMITO – Balenciaga Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Diversity.

In the present day, it’s something that seems like it should be standard. Not forced, pushed, or reminded of.

Yet, when it comes to fashion’s runways, the ever-changing, liberal industry seems stuck on this one sore subject – the continual inclusion of models of color. The importance of racial diversity amid models has been discussed for many years but none more fervently than in 2013 with the efforts of Bethann Hardison and the Balance Diversity Coalition. The activist along with supermodels, Naomi Campbell & Iman, directly called out fashion designers and their dominant preference of all-white model castings. Since then, there has been a push for dialogue between the different sectors in the industry to combat and eliminate this problem. Four or so fashion weeks later, this season has been heralded as the season many designers finally incorporated a range of looks into their castings. But how right has it been? Industry insiders gave us their take on the movement for balance and how things have changed – for better or worse.

As far as quantifying change, it seems like numbers aren’t telling the whole story. Hardison asserts when sites “come up with ratios and percentages to indicate that there’s been very little improvement, I don’t agree. I don’t like looking at them now.” She optimistically turns to the visual representation of girls of color on the runway and in editorial, saying she “only likes seeing the improvement of the girls. If you don’t have great models to compete with their white counterparts you’re not going to get a job. Now we have a fighting chance.” Hardison would instead like to focus on the encouragement of agencies scouting girls of color in mass. “These last few seasons it has been much better because we now have more girls of color, whether they’re Black, Middle Eastern, or Asian” inferring that there’s now a bigger pool from which to draw.

“These last few seasons it has been much better because we now have more girls of color, whether they’re Black, Middle Eastern, or Asian”
Bethann Hardison

Similarly, Angus Munro and Noah Shelley, the casting directing team behind AM Casting that was responsible for the line-up at Kenzo, Matthew Williamson, Rick Owens, and that Kanye West x Adidas show, both echoed the sentiments of Bethann. Talking about how things were done in the past, Munro says, “I don’t think scouts were particularly out there looking for black or Asian girls. It’s a supply and demand industry just like any other one.” Shelley breaks it down further, “If there aren’t enough scouts going to African and Asian countries then the model agencies don’t have as much diversity in their ranks. And then those models don’t get shown to me and I can’t show them to my client. When we do a casting and 500 models come in in 3 days, and 15 of them are black girls what will be the percentage that 1-5 of them will make it in that show? It all of a sudden becomes a numbers game.” And the numbers aren’t in the favor of many models of color that are overlooked because of filled quotas.

“I don’t think scouts were particularly out there looking for black or Asian girls. It’s a supply and demand industry just like any other one.”
Angus Munro

Across the board the designers that got it right when it came to diversity were pointed out. Casting director, James Scully, who has worked with brands like Tom Ford, Stella McCartney, & Derek Lam, expressed frankly, “Balmain supports (diversity) so much because of him (Olivier Rousteing). It’s the one place where you see more girls of color than anywhere else and I think that some people take that lead and follow. Balenciaga was great as well with what Alexander Wang did.”

On the runway F/W 2015: Yuan Bo @ Valentino, Bhumika @ Fendi, Amilna @ Giambattista Valli, Dylan @ Alexander Wang, Karly @ Celine, Lineisy @ Prada, Mae @ Louis Vuitton, Aamito @ Balenciaga

Certainly, brands like Celine and Prada that were notorious for going seasons without including a single Black or Asian girl, seemed to embrace both this season. Scully confirms this notion disclosing, “The last two most interesting black girls that have really been launched started at Prada. Aya Jones and Lineisy Montero. In a way, the company that used to lead the way in the worst sort of offense is now leading the way in breaking the new girls of color.” Indeed, many models of color like Aamito Lagum, Yuan Bo Chao, Bhumika Arora, Dylan Xue, Mica Arganaraz, Jing Wen, & Amilna Estevao had terrific seasons walking a heavy number of shows that put them on the radar of many.

Kyle Hagler, president of the NY division of Next Management, agrees that this past season had a lot of new faces of color on the runways but cautions that “the job is a multi-layered job and it’s not just about runways, it’s about advertising and editorial too; so it’s about having a presence in totality and consistently.” As it stands, runway is normally the introduction of many models into the fashion world with advertising and editorials taking them to the next step. Without all three components, success stands out of reach for many hopeful contenders and the latter two are where many models of color fall short.

“The job is a multi-layered job and it’s not just about runways, it’s about advertising and editorial too, so it’s about having a presence in totality and consistently.”
– Kyle Hagler / Next New York

So which designers got it totally wrong this season? Despite some finally stepping up to the plate, other designers maintained a largely white casting aesthetic. Names like Gucci, Saint Laurent, Carven, and many others came up constantly this season for their regretful omission of more models of color. Scully feels like the issue is “designers are really led by their stylists and casting directors. A lot of these castings directors are French or English and I just think culturally they don’t think about it. Unless they’re called out in force, they wouldn’t if they didn’t have to.”

Scully focuses on monotony being inconceivable in a globalized business like fashion stating, “When you’re a global brand like Gucci and you just totally erase half of the customers out of the cast, I think they think it doesn’t matter. But it does matter and I have plenty of friends that say then ‘I can’t buy it.’” Scully goes on to admonish Saint Laurent and its creative director, Hedi Slimane, saying, “there are so many Black and Asian rock and roll stars so I don’t see why Black or Asian people don’t fit into Hedi Slimane’s world. I don’t understand it. And again these are 2 big global brands that have a lot of people to talk to and even with the amount of Asian shoppers they completely omit them from campaigns. They’re basically saying they don’t exist and in 2015 it’s just ridiculous now. It’s a global world and everyone in the world shops and wants to be part of something.”

“It’s a global world and everyone in the world shops and wants to be part of something.”
James Scully

Bethann echoes James’s sentiment when describing this season as inflexible designers having their “heels in the sand” saying, “I look at Lanvin and I look at a designer who I know used to work for Geoffrey Beane… he’s always been conscious of color and he’s using so few girls of color in such a way that it is really disturbing now. This time, Lanvin had 1 black and Asian girl and this is one guy I know has a clue. It shouldn’t be about white and it shouldn’t be about black. It should be about finding the girls that look beautiful.”

“We all can do better. We all have to make sure that every woman in the world can see themselves in images in an aspirational way.”
– Kyle Hagler / Next New York

So how do we continue? It seems obvious that to make change for the better the industry has to finally come to grips with its problem of repetition. It seems that many brands get caught up in the archaic ideas of yesteryear without thinking, or caring, about their global outreach. Hagler reaffirms that “we all can do better. We all have to make sure that every woman in the world can see themselves in images in an aspirational way… let’s face it, what our business generates people pay attention to. I think we also have to be conscious of the fact that people do look to us to drive their emotional state sometimes and if you’re not represented sometimes people feel like they don’t matter and it should never come across like that.” The problem may be more rooted in the stubborn sentiment of many and lack of taking responsibility for the issues of the business. Shelley states that, “it’s tough because people want to just say ‘Oh it shouldn’t matter. Everything is fine’ but until it’s actually an even playing field somebody has to put the energy into changing it a little bit.”

Here’s to hoping that a little turns into a lot.

Related posts:

Posted in Fashion, Fashion Week, Features, Parallax | 7 Comments »

MDC FW15 Go Sees Part 2

March 25th, 2015

GOSEEHOMEPAGE1280W
Models.com Go Sees – Part 2!

During New York Fashion Week it is common to see models everywhere, strutting through town from castings to shows and events. But before the big shows, we invited some beautiful new catwalkers along with popular runway favorites to stop by the models.com office. See who came by for a quick “hello” in part 2 of this season’s MDC go-see feature (see part 1 here)!

Photography by Conte / Potier for Models.com
GEORGIA GRAHAM
HARMONY BOUCHER
ILIANA RUIZ
IRINA LISS
ISABEL SCHOLTEN
ISIS_BATAGLIA_0046
ISIS BATAGLIA
JADA JOYCE
JANE GRYBENNIKOVA
JAYDEN ROBINSON
JEANNE CADIEU
JENNA CASTILLOUX
JULIA BELYAKOVA
JUN YOUNG
KARLA CORREA
KATE C
KAYLA CLARKE
KELIE SANTOS
KID PLOTNIKOVA
KOUKA WEBB
KRISS KULIK
LANA FORNECK
LAUREN TAYLOR
LEAF ZHANG
LIEKE VAN HOUTEN
LIJIE LIU
LINDA HELENA
LORELLE RAYNER
LU XIU
MADELEINE WHITE
MAE LAPRES
MAGDA SLODCZYK
MALOU HOEGENHAVEN
MARCELE DAL CORTIVO
MARIA MATAKOVA
MARIANA SANTANA
MARINA KRTINIC
MARTA ORTIZ
MAY DOUGLAS

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features, fullSlides | 2 Comments »

Top Newcomers F/W 2015

March 17th, 2015

Newcomers F/W 15

Fashion is a cycle with newcomers constantly coming in and keeping it fresh. Both rookie models and second (or more) season superstars made an impact during the Fall / Winter 2015 shows, with designers and casting directors eager to find new talent more than ever. Sometimes that meant a girl straight from the development boards green but ambitious, but other times it meant a girl with the talent and beauty finally getting her time in the spotlight.

Take a look at Models.com’s selection for Top Newcomers F/W 15 – these are the faces who stood out for us this season, girls destined to make their way onto the industry’s biggest covers and into its most prestigious campaigns. In addition to our selection, we’ve asked some of fashion’s most influential editors and influencers to contribute their choices, and their answers add a new layer of excitement and prestige. See who Edward Enninful, Marie Chaix, Bethann Hardison, and Charlotte Stockdale have to say about this season’s stars. Get to know this seasons true catwalk dominators and brace yourselves to see these faces a lot in the upcoming months.

Industry Selects

It’s easy to chart which girls are walking the best shows based off numbers, but who are fashion luminaries really noticing? We’ve asked 4 of our favorite fashion figureheads for their personal take. From brand new faces to established favorites who’ve once again struck a chord, these are the beauties fashion’s insiders can’t get enough of.

Models.com Top Newcomers

1st Season

Aamito Lagum
Amilna Estevao
Astrid Holler
Avery Blanchard
Greta Varlese
Isabella Emmack
Julia van Os
Lia Pavlova
Lineisy Montero
Liza Ostanina
Marland Backus
Sofia Tesmenitskaya
Sophia Ahrens
Willow Hand
Yuan Bo Chao
Zlata Semenko

Breakout Season

Aneta Pajak
Annika Krijt
Bhumika Arora
Irina Shnitman
Julie Hoomans
Luping Wang
Mae Lapres
Regitze Christensen
Roos Abels
Stella Lucia
Tiana Tolstoi
Taylor Hill

1st Season

Aamito Lagum

The majestic, statuesque Aamito captivated brands like Giles, Bottega Veneta, Hermes, Lanvin, & Balenciaga with her arresting gaze and indisputable beauty. An impressive roster for any model but for Aamito it was handled with nothing but grace.

Source Instagram: @aamito_lagum
Balenciaga Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Amilna Estevao

Ever since her debut at Alexander Wang, Amilna has dominated the runways of each fashion capital. From Prada, Fendi, Burberry Prorsum, Balenciaga, & Stella McCartney this Angolan fresh faced beauty is set for a marathon shoot season.

AmilnaEstevaoSource Instagram: @amilnaestevao
Giambattista Valli Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Astrid Holler

When you open up the Alexander Wang show interest is definitely peaked. The alluring Astrid Holler has been nothing but fierce this season with walks at Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Dries Van Noten, & Lanvin before wrapping up at the illustrious, Chanel. Her smoldering look sets this Australian vision apart from the pack.

AstridHollerSource Instagram: @astrid_holler
Alexander Wang Runway Photo by Thomas Concordia/WireImage

Avery Blanchard

Classic, doe-eyed beauty Avery sauntered through our sights with jaunts at Prada, Fendi, Chloe, Miu Miu & Alexander McQueen. Her striking features are a sure bet for her upcoming high demand.

Source Instagram: @averyblanchard
Fendi Runway Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

Greta Varlese

When coolness seeps from your pores it’s unquestionable why you’re considered and Greta Varlese has the it-girl factor. Since starting this season at Prada she’s walked in a bevy of shows from Givenchy, Jil Sander, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, & Alexander McQueen.

GretaSource Instagram: @greta_varlese
Miu Miu Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Isabella Emmack

The unexpected is so much better than the status quo and no one embodies this more than Isabella. With her shorn, black hair and runway debut at Alexander Wang the stellar new face continued on to walking in Oscar de la Renta, Fendi, & Saint Laurent.

polisabellaemmackSource Instagram: @isabellaemmack
Saint Laurent runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Julia van Os

After setting New York on fire with walks at Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, & Rag & Bone, Julia van Os went on to take the Milan and Paris runways with appearances at a number of shows including Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Chanel & Celine. For a debut season, her show list is unsurpassable.

JuliaVanOsSource Instagram: @juliavanos
Stella McCartney Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Lia Pavlova

After opening one of the most anticipated shows of the season with Gucci, Lia went on to the city of lights, opening Dries Van Noten and walking in Lanvin, Dior, Celine & Balenciaga. She finished off her season with Miu Miu, casting her spell on the fashion elite. Can’t wait to see where she pops up next!

LiaPavlovaSource Instagram: @pavlovalia
Gucci Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Lineisy Montero

Her incredible face and great first show are the ingredients needed for an explosive start. Since she exclusively walked in Prada, lovely Lineisy has been a powerhouse with appearances at Givenchy, Celine, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton, & Miu Miu. The Dominican beauty’s name has been feverishly talked about due to her unique, natural beauty and is set to show up in front of an exclusive lens very soon.

LineisySource Instagram: @lineisymontero
Prada Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Liza Ostanina

Since couture season ice-eyed, freckled-face Liza Ostanina has been just waiting to dominate. Her runway roster reads like a department store directory with walks at power brands Gucci, Prada, Jil Sander, Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy & Alexander McQueen.

Source Instagram: @ostliza
Liza-runwayDior Runway Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage

Marland Backus

With exclusives at Gucci to Celine, budding model Marland Backus had quality brands backing her. Her New York start was equally as great with brands Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, & Altuzarra taking on her delicate looks.

Source Instagram: @marzipanjupiter
MarlandBackus-runwayJason Wu Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Sofia Tesmenitskaya

Since her introduction as a Calvin Klein exclusive, turns at Chanel, Dior, and Saint Laurent shortly followed for Russian bombshell Sofia T. Add opening exclusively for Jil Sander and you have all the makings for a top rookie season.

Source Instagram: @sofiatesmenitskaya
SofiaT-runwayJil Sander Runway Photo by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage

Sophia Ahrens

With heavy-hitter shows like Dior, Chanel, Valentino, & Givenchy, under her belt the exquisite Sophia has been making waves ever since nabbing a Prada campaign in 2013. She’s finally blazing the runway and we can’t wait to see what’s in store for her next.

SophiaAhrensSource Instagram: @SophiaAhrens
SophiaAhrens-runwayNarciso Rodriguez Runway Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images

Willow Hand

What can solidify your start in the modeling industry more than exclusively opening Prada? Angelic Willow proves that it’s quality not quantity and with her bookending her runway season with sister line Miu Miu, what more do you really need?

WillowHandSource Instagram: @willow.hand
WillowHand-runwayPrada Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Yuan Bo Chao

When you walk in shows like Dior, Valentino, Fendi & Kenzo people are bound to take notice and doll-faced Yuan Bo Chao is one to keep an eye on. After solidifying top-tier shows towards the end of her fashion season this Chinese darling wants to make sure you remember her name.

Screen-Shot-2015-03-12-at-5.43.04-PMSource Instagram: @yuanbochao
YuanBoChao-runwayValentino Runway Photo by Catwalking/Getty Images

Zlata Semenko

With her elegantly, classic good looks Zlata brought her natural allure to the runway with turns at every major fashion capital. From starting her season at Alexander Wang, to walking at Calvin Klein, Burberry Prorsum, Marni, Versace, Kenzo, Lanvin, & Dries Van Noten this stunner wants to make sure her shoot season is just as strong.

ZlataSemenko-(1)Source Instagram: @zlatasemenko
Zlata-runwayCalvin Klein Runway Photo Pulled from MDX Runway Images by © 2015 Dan Lecca Courtesy of Calvin Klein

Breakout Season

Aneta Pajak

A second full season in meant for Aneta Pajak a roster of mega brand appearances. With a catwalk tour at brands like Christopher Kane, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Nina Ricci, & Chanel her show list was stacked. Her theatrical walk at Maison Margiela was most memorable.

AInstagramSource Instagram: @ANETA_SPIDER
Maison Margiela runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Annika Krijt

With her doll eyes and a lush pout the sublime Annika finally struck big after jaunts during the couture circuit and closing Balenciaga her first season. After floating down the runway at shows like Altuzarra, DVF, Burberry, Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, Dior and closing Balenciaga again she has cemented herself as an in demand necessity.

Source Instagram: @ANNIKAKRIJT
Balenciaga runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Bhumika Arora

Alexander Wang has proven to be the catalyst season after season of launching the careers of many models and Bhumika was no different. Her past seasons have had a respectable line up of shows but nowhere near the clout of this season with Marc Jacobs, Gareth Pugh, Fendi, Pucci, Balmain, & Stella McCartney – electrifying to say the least. 

Source Instagram: @BHUMIKA_ARORA04
Fendi runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Irina Shnitman

She touched down briefly in Milan last season with an appearance at Dolce & Gabbana but this season was when Irina finally soared. Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler, Giorgio Armani, Chloe, Valentino & Chanel all required her angel faced beauty on their runways which means it’s a sure bet that good things are on the horizon for her.

Source Instagram: @IRINASHNITMAN
Proenza Schouler runway photo by JP Yim / Stringer / Getty Images

Julie Hoomans

Sweet-faced, darling Julie Hoomans has been in stealth mode for a couple of seasons with steady showings at your favorite designer’s favorite designer runway. This season she came out swinging with walks at Miu Miu, Prada, Valentino, Fendi, & Dior aligning herself with the biggest names in the business.

Source Instagram: @JULIEHOOMANS
Louis Vuitton runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Luping Wang

Luping Wang had a solid Spring RTW and couture season as a foundation and her Fall 2015 season only strengthened that. She was virtually everywhere from Ralph Lauren to Burberry Prorsum to Chloe & Chanel. Her adorable and classic good looks make her endearing to the masses. 

Source Instagram: @LUPINGWONG
Stella McCartney runway photo by  Catwalking / Getty Images

Mae Lapres

Mae has been a steady favorite of brands like Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent for a while now but this season it seemed like everyone else took notice of the exquisite beauty. Design houses like Rodarte, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Carven and Louis Vuitton took on the quirky half Chinese and Canadian beauty.

Source Instagram: @MEIMEILAPRES
Isabel Marant runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Regitze Christensen

Regitze’s Spring debut was a slow rumble compared to the roar of Fall. Starting with a walk at Jason Wu she then steamrolled through Milan and Paris at Fendi, Pucci, Marni, Rochas, Isabel Marant, & Louis Vuitton before finishing up at Miu Miu and solidifying she’s here to stay! 

Source Instagram: @REGITZEHC
Valentino runway photo by  Catwalking / Getty Images

Roos Abels

The babydoll-faced beauty Roos Abels first turned heads after walking in Prada last season. She appeared again this season walking in Gucci, Pucci, Rochas, Louis Vuitton, & Dior and has the potential to be an industry darling as shoot season approaches.  

RoosPolaroid
Christian Dior runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Stella Lucia

Brands like Chanel & Givenchy had already taken a chance on Stella Lucia last season but this time around she was in high demand in every city. Fresh from a striking cover shoot with Another Magazine, Stella was the talk of the town with runway walks at Alexander Wang, Gareth Pugh, Prada, Fendi, Alexander McQueen & Chanel. She showed her versatility taking on the more sexier or theatrical shows at Versace, Pucci, & Giles. 

Bottega Veneta runway photo by  Catwalking / Getty Images

Tiana Tolstoi

This Egyptian born goddess had a steady start in 2013 with an exclusive at Balanciaga and Vogue Italia & China editorials. Tiana re-emerged as an exclusive to Alexander Wang’s show in New York and continued on to major bookings from Marc by Marc, Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Carven, Kenzo, McQueen, & Stella McCartney. A well-deserved show season for a striking face. 

Source Instagram: @tianatolstoi
Alexander Wang runway photo by Neilson Barnard / Staff / Getty Images

Taylor Hill

All-American dream Taylor had a respectable 2014 season and an appearance at Victoria Secret’s annual fashion show but this season she swam with the big fish. The dark haired, ocean eyed dream walked in Ralph Lauren, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, & Chanel charming designers and casting directors alike with her timeless beauty. She also played up her vixen factor by spots at Anthony Vaccarello, Pucci, Versace, Balmain, & Dolce & Gabbana showing she’s far from a wallflower. 

Source Instagram: @taylor_hill
Balmain runway photo by Catwalking / Getty Images

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features | 13 Comments »

Esteban Cortazar F/W 2015

March 10th, 2015

LOOK06-0017-newcover

With an inquisitive look into the idea of form, Esteban Cortazar‘s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 touches on the sensual vulnerability of his woman. Here we only get glimpses of the figure underneath as she only allows you to see what she wants to reveal. Solid, unyielding leather corsetry that mimics armor meets with fringed silhouettes that sway with each exposed footstep. There is a feminine power behind the duality of cocoon-like capes with exposed midriffs and balloon fringe-looping with sheer underlays — can you come close or not? For Cortazar’s woman, she has the power to decide herself. See for yourself in this exclusive presentation of the Esteban Cortazar F/W 2015 lookbook.

Photographer & Art Director: Jaime Rubiano (Paris: ArtList Paris, New York: ArtList NY)
Editor: George Cortina (Camilla Lowther Management)
Casting Director: Andrew Weir (ACW Worldwide)

Text by Irene Ojo-Felix

Lookbook courtesy of Esteban Cortazar for Models.com

Untitled-1

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Exclusives, Fashion, Fashion Week, fullSlidesWhite, Womenswear | 1 Comment »

MDC FW15 Go Sees Part 1

March 5th, 2015

Models.com Go Sees – Part 1!

During New York Fashion Week it is common to see models everywhere, strutting through town from castings to shows and events. But before the big shows, we invited some beautiful new catwalkers along with popular runway favorites to stop by the models.com office. See who came by for a quick “hello” in part 1 of this season’s MDC go-see feature!

Photography by Conte / Potier for Models.com
ABLA_OSMAN_0043lossy
ABLA OSMAN
ALEJANDRA INFANTE
ALEX_ELIZABETH_0037lossy
ALEX ELIZABETH
ALEXANDRA_HOCHGUERTEL_0075lossy
ALEXANDRA HOCHGUERTEL
ALEXIA BELLINI
ALLY ERTEL
ALMA DURAND
AMELIE ROMAN
AMILNA ESTEVAO
ANA_SUKA_0029lossy
ANA SUKA
ANEITA MOORE
ANJA CIHORIC
ANNA_GROSTINA_0005lossy
ANNA GROSTINA
ANNA HERRERA
ANNELY_BOUMA_0011lossy
ANNELY BOUMA
ANUSHKA STUPAKOFF
ANYA LYAGOSHINA
AUGUSTA BEYER
AVERY THARP
AYA JONES
BARBARA CAVAZOTTI
BRILEY JONES
BRITTANY AVINA
CARLY MOORE
CHARLOTTE LINDVIG
CIERRA SKYE
DEIMANTE MISIUNAITE
DJENICE SILVA
ELIZA HARTMANN
ELIZABETH DAVISON
EMELY MONTERO
EMERSON CAMPBELL
ESZTER BOLDOV
FLORENCE_KOSKY_0024Lossy
FLORENCE KOSKY

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features, fullSlides | 3 Comments »

Marc Jacobs F/W 2015

March 2nd, 2015

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-68

Marc Jacobs F/W 15

Marc Jacobs presented a collection for Fall 2015 that was decisive and at times capricious. Diana Vreeland’s red “garden from hell” encased the runway. The backdrop was inspired by Jeremiah Goodman’s painting of the illustrious fashion editor’s living room. The depiction loomed behind Marc’s collective pieces, a setting that was an explicit nod to the collection and its designer’s influencer. It also gave an indulgent showcase for pieces that were equally indulgent in their assurance: streaked mink, a variegation of patterns and brush-stroked scarlet. Erin O’Connor opened the show in a marsala-colored dress with bands of glimmering black. Sarah Brannon and Zhenya Katava walked elegant, exaggerated striped coats down the runway. The garment’s contours showed off not-so-modern proportions, but were effective in creating a timeless allure embodying the poise and drama of Vreeland. Not surprisingly so considering Allure is the name of Diana’s memoir. Even the powdered faces with brightly rouged lips the models sported were suggestive of Marc’s preoccupation with the woman who once said, “Every girl in the world should have geisha training.” While the narrative of the panoply was often austere, there was a moment of vulnerability as Kinja Rajzak displayed a black-gemstone ornamented, tulle dress. The sheerness was a welcome offset. Midpoint it revealed a more delicate femininity during a collection that seemed intent on emboldening rather than exposing any kind of fragility. The show was closed by the strikingly beautiful Sarah Abney in a beaded, crimson coat and embroidered tulle. A wonderful final touch of pizazz for Marc Jacobs.

Marc Jacobs F/W 2015

Review by Steven Yatsko
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-01

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-2-3

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-05

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-06

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-08

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-13

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-17

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-16

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-18

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-19

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-22

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-21

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-23

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-24

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-25

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-27

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-26

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-29-30

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-31

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-33

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-32

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-34-35

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-36

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-39

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-38

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-41

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-42

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-44

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-43

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-50

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-49

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-51

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-53

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-54-55

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-57

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-60

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-63

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-65

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-66

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-72

casey-vange-marc-jacobs-71

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | 4 Comments »

Diversity Rules! Part 5: Next NY

February 26th, 2015

Next-MDX-1280

Diversity Rules! Part 5:
Next
“For many seasons the activist in me tried to figure out what to do about the problem at hand regarding the lack of racial diversity on the runways, in editorials and fashion advertising.

I have addressed the industry by having town hall meetings, gaining international media support, even naming those who lack the sense of responsibility of incorporating models of color. And after being given the CFDA’s Founders Award in June 2014 for upfront confrontation and determination to change how things are done and seen, still we lag at where we should be as an industry.

Surely there has been some improvement.

Where there is clear improvement over the years…are the model agencies. They have improved their inclusion of the model of color and continue to seek those beauties.

So I decided, instead of looking at what and where it isn’t happening (for now), to show where it continues to grow. There are agencies with far more ethnic models than others, but there are many still open to growth.

I decided to reflect what I saw here with the support of Models.com and the model agencies.

We are continuing our series with Next NY.

It was truly my pleasure and pride, to see and meet the models that I selected to represent their agencies and to link the others the agency represented as well.

No doubt, it’s a beautiful movement.”

Bethann Hardison

All Models: Next NY
Edited by Bethann Hardison

Photos by Steven Yatsko for Models.com
Hair: Martin Christopher Harper
Makeup: Munemi Imai
Bethann Hardison portrait by Hans Neumann (De Facto) for Models.com
Video interviews by Bethann Hardison
Art direction: Stephan Moskovic
Video: Blue Barn Pictures
Producer: Jazmin Alvarez

Dalianah
Jessie
Sharam
Shu Pei
Yuan

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features | 9 Comments »

Calvin Klein F/W 15

February 24th, 2015

ckmain1280

Calvin Klein F/W 15

One of the most difficult tasks afforded to designers is finding ways to excite while remaining true to the DNA of their respective houses. The more famous a brand name the more likely it is to be associated with a series of visual codes. Designers can either choose to ignore those codes entirely, or work within the constraints. Francisco Costa has always favored the latter approach, embracing Calvin Klein’s heritage of streamlined minimalism while finding ways to infuse his own sensibilities into each collection. Fall finds Costa playing with the hallmarks of the swinging sixties: flat loafers, oversized lapels and plenty of A-line dresses. This could be viewed as Calvin Klein through the lens of Mary Quant, but Costa is far too intelligent a designer to simply rehash the past. Utilizing an array of techno-chic fabrications from punched haircalf to eye-catching metalic mélange Costa takes the retro starting point into the future.

Fall has always meant an influx of black on the Calvin runway, but this time around the color was interspersed with a series of colorful moments that popped. Blush cashmere t-shirt dresses that looked more luxurious than anything labeled a tee has a right to, terracota patchwork maxicoats that brought a little 70s funk in the mix and a patent leather peacoat that managed to make the cold-weather staple exciting. The hits came one after another but Costa’s Paco Rabanne influenced finale gowns were the true standouts. Working with linked hair-calf instead of metal plates, Costa created a slinky, sensual look with just the right mix of nostalgia and modernity.

Calvin Klein F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Backstage photos by Betty Sze
Runway Images by © 2015 Dan Lecca courtesy of Calvin Klein

IMG_7311_1280W-2

IMG_7307_1280W-2

IMG_7189_1280W-2

IMG_7197_1280W-2

IMG_6378_1280W-2

IMG_7194_1280W-2

65-69

IMG_7233_1280W-2

IMG_7240_1280W-2

IMG_6362_1280W-2

IMG_7253_1280W-2

IMG_7294_1280W-2

06-62

IMG_7284_1280W-2

IMG_7279_1280W-2

IMG_7292_1280W-2

IMG_7318_1280W-2

IMG_7326_1280W-2

IMG_7336_1280W-2

IMG_7337_1280W-2

calvindouble

IMG_7355_1280W-2

IMG_7356_1280W-2

IMG_6360_1280W-2

IMG_7358_1280W-2

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-001

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-002

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-004

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-005

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-007

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-009

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-011

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-012

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-013

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-014

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-016

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-017

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-020

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-021

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-022

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-023

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-025

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-026

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-028

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-030

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-031

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-033

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-035

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-036

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-037

calvin-klein-collection-w-f15-021915-ph_lecca-dan-038

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | 2 Comments »

Diversity Rules! Part 4: Wilhelmina

February 23rd, 2015

1280

Diversity Rules! Part 4:
Wilhelmina
“For many seasons the activist in me tried to figure out what to do about the problem at hand regarding the lack of racial diversity on the runways, in editorials and fashion advertising.

I have addressed the industry by having town hall meetings, gaining international media support, even naming those who lack the sense of responsibility of incorporating models of color. And after being given the CFDA’s Founders Award in June 2014 for upfront confrontation and determination to change how things are done and seen, still we lag at where we should be as an industry.

Surely there has been some improvement.

Where there is clear improvement over the years…are the model agencies. They have improved their inclusion of the model of color and continue to seek those beauties.

So I decided, instead of looking at what and where it isn’t happening (for now), to show where it continues to grow. There are agencies with far more ethnic models than others, but there are many still open to growth.

I decided to reflect what I saw here with the support of Models.com and the model agencies.

We are continuing our series with Wilhelmina.

It was truly my pleasure and pride, to see and meet the models that I selected to represent their agencies and to link the others the agency represented as well.

No doubt, it’s a beautiful movement.”

Bethann Hardison

All Models: Wilhelmina New York (New York)
Edited by Bethann Hardison

Photos by Hans Neumann (De Facto) for Models.com
Hair: Martin Christopher Harper
Makeup: Cyndle Komarovski
Retoucher: Tatiana Chebotareva
Bethann Hardison portrait by Hans Neumann for Models.com
Video interviews by Bethann Hardison
Art direction: Stephan Moskovic
Video editing: Andrea Fumagalli @ Blue Barn Pictures
Producer: Jazmin Alvarez

Daniela
DanielaWilhelmina4839
Djenice
DJeniceWilhelmina4331
Emely
EmelyMonteroWilhelmina4578
Jasmine
JasmineWilhelmina4644
Kwak
KwokWilhelmina4515
Lula
LulaWilhelmina4724
Neelam
NeelamWilhelmina4396

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features | 11 Comments »

Anna Sui F/W 15

February 23rd, 2015

casey-vange-annasui-01

Anna Sui F/W 15

In the hands of a lesser designer a collection based on Vikings would begin and end with literal Norse references and a slew of oversized furs; thankfully Anna Sui has always taken the road less traveled. The designer’s starting point may have been The History Channel’s steamy historical drama, Vikings but Sui merged the source material with her own hippie sensibilities. Models sported tribal face-paint courtesy of Pat McGrath as they stomped down Sui’s runway in mixed prints and geek glasses. Working working an array of psychedelic patterns into an appealing melange, Sui channeled the groovy vibe of the late sixties as much as the wild spirit of the Viking age. Moments of beauty came when Sui fully embraced both of her motifs: dressing Xiao Wen Ju in a smocked blouse and embroidered blouse that looked straight out of the Biba years and closing the show with Jamie Bochert in an oversized horned helmet of the knit variety.

Anna Sui F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange

casey-vange-annasui-03

casey-vange-annasui-06

casey-vange-annasui-08

casey-vange-annasui-12

casey-vange-annasui-13

casey-vange-annasui-15

casey-vange-annasui-17

casey-vange-annasui-20

casey-vange-annasui-26

casey-vange-annasui-25

26-28

casey-vange-annasui-30

casey-vange-annasui-33

casey-vange-annasui-35

casey-vange-annasui-37

casey-vange-annasui-42

casey-vange-annasui-43

casey-vange-annasui-46

casey-vange-annasui-48

casey-vange-annasui-50

casey-vange-annasui-52

54-55

casey-vange-annasui-58

casey-vange-annasui-63

casey-vange-annasui-64

casey-vange-annasui-66

casey-vange-annasui-74

casey-vange-annasui-75

casey-vange-annasui-76

casey-vange-annasui-77

80-82

casey-vange-annasui-85

casey-vange-annasui-88

casey-vange-annasui-90

casey-vange-annasui-91

casey-vange-annasui-92

casey-vange-annasui-97

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | No Comments »

Sophie Theallet F/W 15

February 20th, 2015

Sophie Theallet F/W 15

Sophie Theallet (Print & Contact) stayed true to her own paradigms for Fall 2015 designing a well-mannered collection with her signature autumnal palette and variations of traditional shapes. On display was Theallet’s flair for marrying colors and employing pattern as an instrument, rather than a statement. Well-placed eccentricities such as leather ruffles added flounce and black lace brought the looks from day to night. Her biggest gamble was taking advantage of a color narrative that nearly stretched itself thin. But in succession on the runway, opened by Waleska Gorczevski, the collection demonstrated the designer’s playful elasticity. She first introduced more vibrant pieces dominated by full-hued pinks, teals, oranges and lavenders. The designer then subdued and divvied those colors to partner, without a fight, to less insistent luxury silhouettes, the impact working in her favor. Her patterned sweaters and sometimes fussy pairings advanced to elegance by way of slitted skirts, a patinated pants suit and gold, floor-length gowns worn by Codie Young and show closer, Aamito Lagum. The vitals of the collection kept mostly within Sophie’s tried template that she continues to cultivate; that habitat being French sensibilities and a nod to her fashion milieu under Alaïa. Hair, by the brush of Peter Gray, was French as well: no priority on the brushing, but stylish and feminine.

Sophie Theallet F/W 2015

Review by Steven Yatsko
Photos by Stephan Moskovic

1000065-1280w

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | 1 Comment »

Diversity Rules! Part 3: IMG

February 19th, 2015

Diversity Rules! Part 3:
IMG
“For many seasons the activist in me tried to figure out what to do about the problem at hand regarding the lack of racial diversity on the runways, in editorials and fashion advertising.

I have addressed the industry by having town hall meetings, gaining international media support, even naming those who lack the sense of responsibility of incorporating models of color. And after being given the CFDA’s Founders Award in June 2014 for upfront confrontation and determination to change how things are done and seen, still we lag at where we should be as an industry.

Surely there has been some improvement.

Where there is clear improvement over the years…are the model agencies. They have improved their inclusion of the model of color and continue to seek those beauties.

So I decided, instead of looking at what and where it isn’t happening (for now), to show where it continues to grow. There are agencies with far more ethnic models than others, but there are many still open to growth.

I decided to reflect what I saw here with the support of Models.com and the model agencies.

We are continuing our series with IMG New York.

It was truly my pleasure and pride, to see and meet the models that I selected to represent their agencies and to link the others the agency represented as well.

No doubt, it’s a beautiful movement.”

Bethann Hardison

All Models: IMG (New York)
Edited by Bethann Hardison

Photos by Alex & Iggy for Models.com
Videographer: Kloss Films
Grace Mahary Portrait by Kloss Films / Retouching Silhouette Studio
Hair: Malcolm Cuthbert
Makeup: Shar Sinclair
Bethann Hardison portrait by Hans Neumann (De Facto) for models.com
Video interviews by Bethann Hardison
Art direction: Stephan Moskovic
Producer: Jazmin Alvarez
Studio: Artist Studio NYC

Chen Lin
Grace Mahary
graceIMG
Jasmine Tookes
Jeneil Williams
Ping Hue
Sasha Hronis

Ping Hue, Sasha Hronis, Jasmine Tookes, Chen Lin, Grace Mahary
Scarlet
Senait Gidey
Yu Du Zeng

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features | 11 Comments »

Marc by Marc Jacobs F/W 2015

February 19th, 2015

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-75

Marc by Marc Jacobs F/W 15

While it may seem like stating the obvious to say that the Luella Bartley & Katie Hilllier incarnation of Marc by Marc Jacobs has a feminine point of view, the fact remains that majority of fashion is still dictated by men. Bartley & Hillier offer a perspective on womenswear that is at once concerned with the trappings of femininity and informed by the concerns of reality. Politics, activism, female solidarity, ideals that impact the lives of young women around the world whether or not they’re sitting front row at a fashion show. On paper this doesn’t exactly sound exuberant, but the duo managed to take their high minded reference points and transform them into a peppy, fun-filled collection complete attuned to the attitudes of today’s girls.

Starting with a beatnik beret and suffragette emblazoned number on Anita Zet, the duo played with ideas about print and pattern. The textiles of William Morris served as an inspiration and the iconic designer, poet, activist’s revolutionary spirit fit well with the collection’s overall message. Bold-faced taglines with messages about choice and change appeared on several looks and provided a wry alternative to last season’s logomania. The pattern play continued with the addition of an oak leaf print that made its way onto tailored overcoats and floor grazing skirts. As always Hillier’s accessories expertise led to a must-have and the addition of metal accented waist bags will have countless people reconsidering their anti-fannypack stance.

Marc by Marc Jacobs F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-01

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-06

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-05

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-08

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-10

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-11

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-14

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-13

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-15

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-18

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-22

24-26

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-27

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-28

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-30

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-32

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-35

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-39

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-40

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-42

43-44

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-46

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-48

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-51

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-53

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-54

57-60

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-63

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-62

64-66

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-68

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-69

71-72

casey-vange-marcby-marcjac-74

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | No Comments »

3.1 Phillip Lim FW 15

February 19th, 2015

casey-vange-phillip-42

3.1 Phillip Lim F/W 15

After 10 years Philip Lim has moved from being one of NYFW’s upstarts to joining the ranks of its standard bearers, 3.1 Phillip Lim is a wardrobe mainstay for women in search of unconventional contemporary cool and there are plenty in search of just that. Business is booming and Lim has become a global arbiter of taste, but that hasn’t hindered his creativity one bit. Those who entered his fall show expecting to see the ghosts of collections past were sorely disappointed, though Lim payed homage to several of the looks that have become his signatures, he did so without a touch of redundancy. Girl of the moment Astrid Holler stomped onto the runway in a lambskin jacket and muscle tee worn layered with asymmetrical flannel that echoed the season’s infatuation with grunge. The look had an undercurrent of toughness, but when worn with ankle boots and a swipe of russet lip-color it had a street yet sweet flavor.

The juxtaposition between pretty and edgy served as Lim’s key focus and several looks straddled the line between downtown cool and a more sophisticated sensibility. Lim nodded to the mix in his collection notes, where he expressed a desire to address the label’s core values and “re-address the systems and structures that we build along the way – even the most conventional of a system – ‘pretty’. This meant plenty of unique add-ons like a mottled red & black spider wool that covered trench coats and sleeveless pullovers with deliberately worn holes. There were a few moments of pure glamour, with detachable fur stoles amping up the luxury on bomber jackets, while a draped gown on Laura Julie adding a touch of succulent green grandeur into the mix.

3.1 Phillip Lim F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com

casey-vange-phillip-02

casey-vange-phillip-03

casey-vange-phillip-05

casey-vange-phillip-06

casey-vange-phillip-08

casey-vange-phillip-09

casey-vange-phillip-10

casey-vange-phillip-11

casey-vange-phillip-12

casey-vange-phillip-13

casey-vange-phillip-14

casey-vange-phillip-15

casey-vange-phillip-16

casey-vange-phillip-18

casey-vange-phillip-19

casey-vange-phillip-20

casey-vange-phillip-21

casey-vange-phillip-23

casey-vange-phillip-25

casey-vange-phillip-26

casey-vange-phillip-27

casey-vange-phillip-28

casey-vange-phillip-30

casey-vange-phillip-32

casey-vange-phillip-33

casey-vange-phillip-35

casey-vange-phillip-37

casey-vange-phillip-39

casey-vange-phillip-44

casey-vange-phillip-46

casey-vange-phillip-48

casey-vange-phillip-51

casey-vange-phillip-52

casey-vange-phillip-53

casey-vange-phillip-54

casey-vange-phillip-56

casey-vange-phillip-57

casey-vange-phillip-58

casey-vange-phillip-61

casey-vange-phillip-62

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | No Comments »

Hugo Boss F/W 15

February 19th, 2015

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-01

Hugo Boss F/W 15

The Hugo Boss name is synonymous with the kind of luxury that whispers rather than shouts and during the seasons that Jason Wu has been at the helm of the Boss brand he has adhered to an aesthetic that is understated yet powerful. For fall Wu explored ideas about industrial beauty; the kind of subtly commanding look that calls to mind architectural majesty. Fittingly, Wu presented his collection atop 225 Liberty, César Pelli’s postmodern masterpiece. The airy space served as a perfect backdrop for the hard-edged tailored pieces that dominated the collection. Show opener Edie Campbell strutted out sporting a new haircut and a vermillion tinged navy overcoat and matching dress paired with glossy black boots that merged equestrian with mod. Kinga Rajzak and Saskia de Brauw appeared soon after in textured variations on the vermillion and navy that were no less appealing.

The show’s most exciting moments came when Wu mixed Boss’ menswear tailoring with a decidedly feminine sensibility. Razor sharp cutouts added interest to Julia Bergshoeff’s black tank and pencil skirt combination, while Ine Neefs sharp suiting was delivered in a mix of geometric patterns that dazzled the eye. Texture played a decisive role in the collection with a blend of melange wool and jersey adding a tactile element to many of the colorful pieces. Playful moments like Angel Rutledge’s fuzzy blue turtleneck, were contrasted with segments that brought the show’s industrial focus to the forefront. Technology served to elevate several of the looks with plasticized fabrics and laser cut sequins used to create effect. Several of the show’s final looks provided an almost futuristic take on sensuality with layers of figure hugging sequins creating a chain-mail effect that accentuated every curve.

Hugo Boss F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-04

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-07

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-12

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-11

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-13

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-17

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-20

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-21

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-22

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-24

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-27

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-28

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-30

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-29

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-31

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-32

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-35

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-37

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-44

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-46

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-49

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-50

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-52

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-53

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-55

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-57

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-60

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-63

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-65

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-67

casey-vange-hugo-boss3-70

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | No Comments »

Patrik Ervell F/W 15

February 18th, 2015

pehome

Patrik Ervell F/W 15

As guests filed into the runway space at Milk Studios for Patrik Ervell’s Fall 2015 show late Monday afternoon, they were greeted by the soft glow of neon, which lined several freestanding set pieces in harsh concrete, a collection of graphic planters, steps, and sharp angles that had a backward-looking sense of the future—or, perhaps, a forward-looking sense of the past. When the designer explained that the design was inspired by Brutalist architecture and, specifically, London’s Barbican Centre, which dwarfs its visitors with its grandiose, looming scale, everything clicked into place.

Ervell built his name on a skinny silhouette, athletic inspirations, and unconventional materials, and those cornerstones of his artistic vision were all visible in the collection, albeit with new twists—billowing pants legs, a vivid ikat print, the return of the fleece that proved so divisive in his Spring 2015 collection. On a brutally cold day, Ervell made an overwhelmingly powerful case for dressing in layers, with turtlenecks under blazers that peeked out from beneath puffer vests or bomber jackets. The clothes, inspired by the same much-maligned architectural movement as the mise-en-scène, had an approachability and an appeal that Brutalist buildings can sometimes lack, pulling in with their pure designs and clean grace notes. One rubbery jacket in polyurethane-bonded leather featured the prominent placement of Ervell’s logo, a sharply stylized image of his last name stretching to fill the bounds of a pentagon, a design touch perfected over the last few seasons that spoke to just how important Ervell takes his every detail.

The show ended on a serious note, as the models paraded by again, illuminated only by the pale strips of neon (an effective way to prevent the ubiquitous blurry, diminishing finale shots that populate Instagram, perhaps). It was a tableau that was, if not exactly post-apocalyptic, at least a fitting reminder that clothes, at their most basic—and especially the strong designs Ervell showed here—are meant to protect us.

Patrik Ervell F/W 2015

Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Betty Sze for models.com

pelk1

pe1.2

pebs

peya

peq

peg

pefg

pemvs

pedc

pego

pejm3

peha

peswco

peden

pemult

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Menswear | No Comments »

Prabal Gurung F/W 15

February 18th, 2015

412A1116

Prabal Gurung F/W 15

Call it peak performance; Prabal Gurung might not seem like a mountain man but the designer’s love of nature continues to influence his collections. Back in spring Gurung looked to the Himalayas for inspiration which resulted in an exquisite and technologically charged collection. Fall brings Gurung full circle with a trek through the Adirondacks and its lush color palette. Gurung attributes his love of mountain to the serene and mediative qualities he finds in their midst, the kind of tranquility one rarely gets on the bustling streets of New York City. For a designer this kind of fashion respite can serve as an important part of the creative process, aka time to refocus and shape ideas. The looks presented on Gurung’s fall runway were worlds away from the colorful, kinetic looks he sent out for spring, yet no less interesting. Simple, luxurious American sportswear served as the basis for a collection dominated by modernity There wasn’t a single silhouette on Gurung’s runway that couldn’t be called classic, but his use of materials made it all feel new again. A crepe slip dress is pure 90s, but when it’s layered with a fox trimmed wool duffle coat it becomes indicative of 2015’s mood.

This merger of classic and current was echoed in the casting which brought back some of fashion’s favorite ninties and noughties beauties: Kirsty Hume, Christina Kruse, Tasha Tilberg, Frankie Rayder, and Luca Gadjus strutted alongside fresh faces like Amilna Estevao and Astrid Holler. The combination of models simply felt right; you don’t have to be 20 to pull off Gurung’s smartly cut lambskin skirts, nor does one need maturity to look right in his Swarovski embellished tank dresses. These are clothes for every woman with the power and pocketbook to indulge themselves in a taste of luxury. As always with Gurung’s showings the best was saved for last, a tonal sequined tank gown on Ondria Hardin offering a relaxed take on glamour that hammered home the collection’s message of laid-back decadence. Elsewhere in the finale Caroline Trentini proved you don’t have to show any skin to radiate sensuality, closing the show in a hand embroidered navy gown that merely hinted at her famous curves.

Prabal Gurung F/W 2015

Review by Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Julia Chesky for models.com

412A0948_1

412A0953_1

412A0956_1

412A0963_1

412A0971

412A0988

412A1017

412A1020

412A1025

412A1055

412A1061

412A1078

412A1081

412A1109

412A1122

412A1127

412A1153

412A1170_1

412A1172

412A1180_1

412A1191

412A1203

Related posts:

Posted in Collections, Cover story, Fashion, Fashion Week, Womenswear | No Comments »

Diversity Rules! Part 2: New York Model Management

February 17th, 2015

Diversity-NYM-1777x1184

Diversity Rules! Part 2:
New York Model Management
“For many seasons the activist in me tried to figure out what to do about the problem at hand regarding the lack of racial diversity on the runways, in editorials and fashion advertising.

I have addressed the industry by having town hall meetings, gaining international media support, even naming those who lack the sense of responsibility of incorporating models of color. And after being given the CFDA’s Founders Award in June 2014 for upfront confrontation and determination to change how things are done and seen, still we lag at where we should be as an industry.

Surely there has been some improvement.

Where there is clear improvement over the years…are the model agencies. They have improved their inclusion of the model of color and continue to seek those beauties.

So I decided, instead of looking at what and where it isn’t happening (for now), to show where it continues to grow. There are agencies with far more ethnic models than others, but there are many still open to growth.

I decided to reflect what I saw here with the support of Models.com and the model agencies.

We are continuing our series with New York Model Management.

It was truly my pleasure and pride, to see and meet the models that I selected to represent their agencies and to link the others the agency represented as well.

No doubt, it’s a beautiful movement.”

Bethann Hardison

All Models: New York Model Management (New York)
Edited by Bethann Hardison

Photos by Hans Neumann (De Facto) for Models.com
Hair: Martin Christopher Harper
Makeup: Cyndle Komarovski
Retoucher: Tatiana Chebotareva
Bethann Hardison portrait by Hans Neumann for Models.com
Video interviews by Bethann Hardison
Art direction: Stephan Moskovic
Video editing: Andrea Fumagalli @ Blue Barn Pictures
Producer: Jazmin Alvarez

Ash Foo
AshleyFooNYMModels5234
Chey Carty
CheyNYM5217
Chiharu Okunugi
ChiharuNYMModels5037
Leila Nda
LeilaNdaNYMModels5514
Marihenny Pasible
MariHennyNYMModels5130
Riley Montana
RileyNYMModels4932

Related posts:

Posted in Cover story, Fashion Week, Features | 6 Comments »