September 26th, 2014
On paper the spring collection from Rick Owens sounds about as far from the designer’s comfort zone as can be. The words pastel and tulle aren’t typically included in the Owens lexicon and yet they worked so well with his aesthetic that even the designer’s edgiest acolytes had to be impressed by his take on the ultra-feminine. Ballet served as the inspiration for spring’s showing, but Owens eschewed the typical tutu trappings in favor of a look that was modern and at times industrial. Sweeping columns with tulle detailing and cuneate gowns that floated away from the body served as a starting point for a collection that grew more more complex with each look, swelling to a finale of artfully architectural gowns that wrapped around each model’s frame like a chrysalis. The effect was heightened by incredible hair and makeup by Luigi Murenu and Lucia Peroni. One couldn’t help but feel that this departure represents a new beginning for Owens, who is already a highly regarded design talent in and out of fashion. By showing the full breadth of what he can do Owen is likely to attract an even wider audience – or at the very least he’s likely to sell countless ridged geisha platforms. The unique heels sported on his runway are already the shoe of the season.