March 2nd, 2015
Marc Jacobs presented a collection for Fall 2015 that was decisive and at times capricious. Diana Vreeland’s red “garden from hell” encased the runway. The backdrop was inspired by Jeremiah Goodman’s painting of the illustrious fashion editor’s living room. The depiction loomed behind Marc’s collective pieces, a setting that was an explicit nod to the collection and its designer’s influencer. It also gave an indulgent showcase for pieces that were equally indulgent in their assurance: streaked mink, a variegation of patterns and brush-stroked scarlet. Erin O’Connor opened the show in a marsala-colored dress with bands of glimmering black. Sarah Brannon and Zhenya Katava walked elegant, exaggerated striped coats down the runway. The garment’s contours showed off not-so-modern proportions, but were effective in creating a timeless allure embodying the poise and drama of Vreeland. Not surprisingly so considering Allure is the name of Diana’s memoir. Even the powdered faces with brightly rouged lips the models sported were suggestive of Marc’s preoccupation with the woman who once said, “Every girl in the world should have geisha training.” While the narrative of the panoply was often austere, there was a moment of vulnerability as Kinja Rajzak displayed a black-gemstone ornamented, tulle dress. The sheerness was a welcome offset. Midpoint it revealed a more delicate femininity during a collection that seemed intent on emboldening rather than exposing any kind of fragility. The show was closed by the strikingly beautiful Sarah Abney in a beaded, crimson coat and embroidered tulle. A wonderful final touch of pizazz for Marc Jacobs.