February 18th, 2014
Sometimes you just want to reach out and touch a collection and that was certainly the case with Francisco Costa’s texture laden fall showing for Calvin Klein. Given the lush selection of heavy, cozy fabrics and tactile wintry looks you couldn’t help but want to cuddle up with Costa’s creations and with a mini-blizzard raging as the show took place, the concept of keeping chic while weatherproof seemed timely. Starting with Alisa Ahmann in a shimmering black mohair coat held in place by an oversized silver safety pin, Costa focused on ensembles that merged the signature Calvin simplicity with a newfound coziness. More than simply being impeccably crafted luxury wares, this was a lineup of feel good clothes – pieces the wearer can face the world in while remaining comfy. The severity that can at times exemplify the Calvin allure were nowhere to be found for fall.
Costa eschewed rigor in favor of rounded shoulders, loosely draped dresses and generous pleats. This resulted in a relaxed collection that felt playful and at times experimental. Though the majority of looks skewed towards neutrals, excitement came via punches of vibrant color. A mandarin coat on Julia Nobis was sensational, its raw hems and subtle gradient gave it a glamorous yet undone feel. Plays on the New England classic fair isle sweater also proved fruitful with turtleneck dresses and oversized sweaters riffing on the concept. Accessories got a rustic update too – gone were the typical sky high-heels and in their place were simple utility boots with wire laces. The calf hair and jeweled toned versions of those boots are sure to prove popular.
Outerwear was an essential component of the collection, especially when delivered in chunky tweeds and appealing three-quarter length shapes. Any of those coats and jackets would look fetching on top of the mixed media finale dresses which merged transparency and a nubby fringed texture created by embroidering gauze. The unique combination piqued the interest of the crowd’s A-listers, Lupita Nyong’o and Naomi Watts, who could be seen marveling at the details while sitting next to Anna Wintour. Perhaps we’ll be seeing Costa’s texture interplay and easygoing aesthetic on Oscar night as well.