Carven Men S/S 14
For Carven Spring 2014 men’s collection, designer Guillaume Henry set up a bare artist’s studio in the brand’s Paris headquarters, scattering easels and frames below a shelf lined with stark white pottery, all beneath the expanse of a soaring skylight you could imagine a young painter working under for natural light. Henry explained afterwards that he had pulled inspiration from artists working in the south of France, and idea that was obvious in the rich palette of mustard yellow, bright orange, mint green, and rich inky blue, colors that would not be unexpected in a van Gogh canvas. The legacy of Carven, he said, means “working with the idea of volumes more than details,” and there was a sturdy boxiness to the swinging jackets and wide-legged pleated shorts, which together gave the looks a pleasant vintage-looking silhouette that still felt very fresh. There was a strong outerwear component, whether in Dylan River’s supple leather jacket or Rutger Schoone’s stiff coat. Anders Hayward’s sporty windbreaker had contrast sleeves with a casual kick, and Alexander Murphy’s bright suit had an engaging nubbly texture, offering different ways into a collection that was a cheery start to Paris Fashion Week.