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State of Grace

November 19th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Grace Coddington by Sebastian Kim

On the eve of the publication of Grace Coddington‘s memoirs the famously flame haired fashion editor is everywhere. Pick up a copy of i-D Magazine‘s latest issue and you’ll see her on the cover, head to any news website worth its salt and you’ll find an excerpt from the tasteful tell-all (or just check it out on Vogue.com) detailing the backstory of some epic editorial moment straight from Vogue’s pages.  Indeed it seems we’re living in a state of Grace, so to speak, so what better time to look back on the trademarks of her work – those quintessential details that set her styling apart from everyone else. It would be impossible to go through twenty years of Grace and pick a few editorials that sum up the depth and diversity that make her work great, instead we look to four Coddington calling cards that are certain to appear in every one of her stories; glamour, history, fantasy and humour.


GLAMOUR

It goes without saying that Vogue is a repository for high-glamour imagery, but Grace has always pushed the borders of what that means. It isn’t enough to showcase off the runway looks or exquisite couture, the image has to convey something powerful and iconic.

‘The Heat of the Moment’ – Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Model Naomi Campbell American Vogue, March 1998

‘High Art’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue November 2004

‘Daydreams’ Photographer Steven Klein, Models Daria Werbowy and Natalia Vodianova American Vogue September 2004

‘Talk to Her’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Models – Joan SmallsCoco RochaKaren ElsonGuinevere Van SeenusCaroline TrentiniLiya KebedeAbbey Lee KershawDaphne Groeneveld, American Vogue 2012


HISTORY

Recreating the look and feel of historical periods with contemporary design has become something of a Vogue standard and when Grace takes on history the end result is always memorable. From haute baroque, to 50s style Brando-chic and 70s style glam rock, her interpretations of the past have always been fresh and dynamic.

‘French Twists’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Models – Lily Cole, Gemma Ward, Gisele Bundchen, Daria Werbowy, Karen Elson, American Vogue May 2004

‘A Feast for the Eyes’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Models – Kylie Bax, Amy Wesson, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Michelle Behennah, Guinevere Van Seenus, Trish Goff, Chandra North,  American Vogue December 1996

‘Custom of the Country’ photographer Annie Leibovitz, Model Natalia Vodianova, American Vogue August 2012

‘Wild At Heart’ Photographer – Peter Lindbergh, Models – Helena ChristensenCindy Crawford,  Linda EvangelistaClaudia SchifferNaomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Tatjana Patitz, and Stephanie Seymour, American Vogue 1991

Rock the House, photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue, November 2001


FANTASY

No one creates a fantastical scenario via clothes quite like Grace does. Her instantly recognizable fairy tale collaboration with Annie Leibovitz has raised the bar for just about everyone by taking the familiar childhood tales and re-imagining them as fanciful fashion moments. Who says Alice can’t fall down the rabbit hole while wearing head to toe Tom Ford? Even with the elaborate sets, mythical allusions and high concept themes, Grace makes you notice the clothes first and foremost.

‘Joy to the World’ Photographer Steven Meisel, American Vogue December 2002

‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ Photographer – Steven Klein, Models – Maggie Rizer, Trish Goff, Oluchi Onweagba, Liisa Winkler, Anouck Lepere, Karolina Kurkova, American Vogue June 2001

‘Garden of Delights’ Photographer -Steven Meisel, Model – Caroline Trentini, American Vogue December 2006

‘Alice in Wonderland’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Natalia Vodianova , American Vogue December 2003

‘Wizard of Oz’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Keira Knightley, American Vogue December 2005

‘Romeo and Juliet’ Photographer – Annie Leibovitz, Model – Coco Rocha, American Vogue December 2008


HUMOUR

A concept that is regrettably missing in most fashion editorials yet always has a place in Grace’s work. Whether it is Stella Tennant leading a troop of boyscouts or Karen Elson starring as Grace herself, there is always that added touch of whimsy that makes her work a delight.

‘A Shot of Scotch’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Linda Evangelista, American Vogue September 1991

‘Graceful Elegance’ Photographer – Steven Meisel, Model – Karen Elson, American Vogue August 2008

‘O’ Pioneers!’ Photographer – Arthur Elgort, Model – Stella Tennant, American Vogue June 2001

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Double Vision : Dior Couture

October 18th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Fashion shows are well and good, but the true test of a collection’s impact is often played out in the editorial pages. When you have multiple editors reaching for the same pieces over and over again you know a designer has hit a nerve. Even when the styling itself isn’t that noticeably different between images, there are always key changes in presentation that separate fashion stories; whether it is the model choice, the manner in which the photographer chose to present the garment, or even something as simple as color vs. black and white, each team puts its own special stamp on things. Take a look at the way in which different magazines have interpreted two of the most popular pieces within the collection and let us know who you think pulled it off best.

Look No. 48  

Black fitted cashmere top with a black duchess satin skirt embroidered with electric blue flowers.

Saskia de Brauw by Daniel Jackson for Vogue Germany, stylist Christiane Arp

Aymeline Valade by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue Japan, stylist Melanie Ward

Saskia de Brauw by Ruth Hogben for Another Magazine, stylist Katie Shillingford

Karlie Kloss by Eric Guillemain for Sunday Times Style Magazine, stylist Lucy Ewing

Hanaa Ben Abdesslem by Michelle Ferrara for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, stylist Elaine Lloyd Jones | Suki Waterhouse by Marc Hom for Tatler, stylist Deep Kailey

Stef Van Der Laan by Luca Guadagnino for CR Fashion Book, stylist Carine Roitfeld

 

NiNi in Vogue China / Thana Kuhnen by Marcelo Krasilcic for L’Officiel

Look No. 8

Blue and pink embroidered cut-off ballgown with black cigarette pants

Keira Knightley by Mario Testino for American Vogue, stylist Grace Coddington

Milla Jovovich by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia | Saskia de Brauw by Ruth Hogben for Another Magazine

Dior couture illustration by Ignasi Monreal for Spanish V Magazine

Aymeline Valade by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue Japanstylist Melanie Ward

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A Family Affair

July 31st, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Every so often a fashion story lets you into the real world of a model and shows you another side of her persona. Girl of the moment, Joan Smalls shares the spotlight with her father Eric and sisters Erika & Betsy, in the latest issue of American Vogue and the resulting editorial is a pure delight. Norman Jean Roy shoots the stunning family in their hometown of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, while Tabitha Simmons styles them in striking looks from Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana & Rag & Bone. Take a look at the gorgeous behind the scenes video for even more of Joan & her family – plus see the full story in the August issue of Vogue.

Images courtesy of Vogue / Condé Nast

Vogue’s August issue featuring Marion Cotillard by Peter Lindbergh

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The Sporting Life

May 23rd, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

The Olympics are right around the corner and magazines are jumping on the bandwagon. Open up nearly any magazine this month and you’ll see a special on the London Olympics and/or a fashion special themed around all things sporty. Which story do you think captures the theme of athleticism, health and fitness best – we’re partial to the editorials that pair models with athletes for the perfect mix of glamour and fitness. Who can resist the sight of Joan Smalls taking of in a sprint while wearing shimmering Ralph Lauren? Or Karlie Kloss balancing on beams alongside gymnast Jonathan Horton! Take a look at the month’s best sporty stories and tell us which one strikes your fancy.

Karlie Kloss by Annie Leibovitz for American Vogue

Joan Smalls and Usain Bolt for American Vogue

Britt Maren by Greg Lotus for Vogue Russia

Athletes Jodie Williams & Louise Hazel by Peter Lindbergh for British Vogue

Gymnast Louis Smith & Jourdan Dunn by Alasdair McLellan

Natalia Vodianova by Cuneyt Akeroglu

Liberty Ross by Matt Irwin for Elle

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A Brief History of Actors & Models

May 11th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

It is a proven fact that Hollywood actors cannot resist models – Leonardo Dicaprio we’re looking at you – so it is no surprise that magazines frequently pair actors & models together in covers and in editorials. We’re not sure why magazines always go for the actor + models combo instead of say actresses and male models (c’mon someone get Scarlett Johansson and Sean O’Pry  together already) but it is a proven formula that can produce beautiful results.

Or incredibly awkward and somewhat confusing results. Lets take a look back at some of our favorite model meets actor moments – the good, the bad and the just plain weird.

2012: W Magazine  : Tom Cruise + Abbey Lee Kershaw & Edita Vilkeviciute by Mario Sorrenti

W Magazine knows how to push all the right buttons don’t they? What better way to promote the blissfully cheesy 80s jukebox musical Rock of Ages than to put its star on the cover looking like a latter day Bret Michaels? Edita Vilkeviciute and Abbey Lee Kershaw are bringing the heat, but we can’t help but feel that Cruise looks more than a little uncomfortable. Perhaps this is simply his version of bored rock star blasé, but he manages to make standing between two of the world’s most beautiful girls look like a chore; to be honest he had more chemistry with Jeremy Renner in MI:4.

2012: Vogue Espana Clive Owen & Toni Garrn by Alexi Lubomirski

Love Toni, Love Clive. Love the city of Paris. Still he looks like her dad in this. Sorry. Unless they were going for the whole “cool dad takes his glamazon daughter to France thing”, if so then it totally works.

2012: American Vogue – Michael Fassbender and Natalia Vodianova by Craig McDean

Let’s be honest they make the ultimate austere couple.

2012: American Vogue – Eddie Redmayne & Karlie Kloss by Mario Testino

Young love minus the pimples.

2011: American Vogue – Jeremy Irvine & Arizona Muse by David Sims

Ok ok. This is a blatant promo for the film War Horse, but hey it made for an amazing editorial, atmospheric, rich and a showcase for some spectacular fashion.

2010 American Vogue – Ewan McGregor & Natalia Vodianova by Peter Lindbergh

Are you starting to see how much American Vogue likes this concept?

2009: American Vogue – Morgan Freeman & Lara Stone by Bruce Weber

Lara Stone and Morgan Freeman taking a walk around New Orleans, oh to have been a fly on the wall for this shoot…

2008: American Vogue – Jon Hamm & Catherine McNeil by Mario Testino

Let Don Draper show you how it’s done. McNeil and Hamm had a great rapport in all their images, in his Vogue profile he describes her as, “adorable and sweet and so much younger than me that it is terrifying.” Age concerns aside the Testino shoot struck the right balance between glamourous fashion fantasy and celebrity profile.

2006: Vanity Fair – George Clooney & Gemma Ward by Norman Jean Roy

The old Hollywood director and his brand new muse – is it too early to label an editorial a modern classic?

2006: American Vogue – Eric Bana & Gisele Bundchen by Mario Testino

Gisele gets roped into this sort of thing a lot…

2005: American Vogue – Josh Hartnett & Gemma Ward

Can you tell that this gorgeous duo started dating after this was shot?

2004: American Vogue Daria Werbowy and Jake Gyllenhaal

Going out on a limb and saying that Jake had the most fun on this shoot.

1992: Kyle Maclachlan & Linda Evangelista for Barneys

In the years prior to the François-Henri Pinault scandal, Linda dated Twin Peaks star Kyle MacLachlan and found time to appear with him in ads for Barneys and a Meisel Vogue story. Unfortunately the couple that poses together doesn’t always stay together and they broke things off in the mid-90s.

1992: Richard Gere and Cindy Crawford by Herb Ritts

Does it get better than this? The answer is no it doesn’t. It does not get any better, Orlando Bloom and Miranda Kerr are not going to give you this kind of movie star & model chicness, bask in the glory of this cover.

And none for Leo.

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20 More All-Time Fashion Icons

April 2nd, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Time Magazine‘s list of the 100 Greatest Fashion Icons is a compelling read. There are some obvious choices – Karl, Coco, Marc, Naomi, Linda & Kate are absolute icons. There are also few unsuspected surprises – we love The Row but, it was shocking to see the Olsen Twins mentioned alongside names like Schiaparelli and Prada. Perhaps the most interesting thing about the list were the names that don’t even appear at all. Time’s list passed over a host of bonafide icons from the world’s of design, entertainment and modeling. Here are 20 people Time missed that we think deserve to be held alongside the icons of the industry.

DESIGNERS

1. MADAME GRES
The legendary couturier, creator of the draped dress and one of the first designers to utilize the bias cut. Should be up there with Chanel!

2. HALSTON
Seminal American designer of the seventies, without the Halston look designers like Michael Kors wouldn’t exist.

3. THIERRY MUGLER
Mugler’s boundary pushing fashions defined the 80s and early 90s with their exaggerated proportions and dangerous sex appeal. Nicola Formichetti‘s revamp of Mugler’s label is nice and all, but nothing can ever compare to the original.

4. YOHJI YAMAMOTO
The unquestioned master of Japanese design – his omission from the list left us flabbergasted.

5. OLIVIER THEYSKENS
One of the brightest talents to emerge in the past decade. His designs at Rochas and Nina Ricci raised the bar for everyone in the industry and at Theory he continues to innovate.

MAKEUP ARTISTS & HAIR STYLISTSthere wasn’t a single makeup artist or hairstylist on the list and that in itself is downright criminal.

5. PAT McGRATH
From the game changing looks she’s created over the years on the runways, to her role in shaping Rooney Mara’s transformation in Girl With the Dragon tattoo, Pat has more than made an impact on the way we view makeup.

6. WAY BANDY
Creative genius behind those epic Scavullo shots that dominated the 70s and continue to inspire. Was one of the first makeup artists to step into the publishing field with his book, Designing Your Face.

7. VIDAL SASSOON (with Grace Coddington)
The man behind every geometic bob ever to exist and one of the first hair stylists to achieve celebrity status. Remember that gorgeous pixie Mia Farrow had in Rosemary’s Baby? You can thank Vidal for that.

MODELS

8. VERUSCHKA
One of the most photographed women of all time and the model in one of the most influential fashion films, Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow Up.

9. CHRISTY TURLINGTON
You can’t exclude one of the most important members of the Trinity and not expect to hear about it. On top of being one of the most prolific supermodels ever, Christy’s continued humanitarian put her at the top of the list.

10. BROOKE SHIELDS
The face of the 80s in every way imaginable. From those unforgettable brows, to the Calvin ads that live on as the standard even now, Shields is iconic in every way.

MUSES

11. MARILYN MONROE & ELIZABETH TAYLOR
Two legends of vintage style who didn’t make the list. We can’t think of a single more copied look than Marilyn’s pneumatic bottle blonde chic. The public frenzy over La Liz’s posthumous Christies auction all but proves her lasting influence as an icon of celebrity style.

12. IRIS APFEL
When the Met launches an entire collection based around your style, you know that you’re a legend. Apfel has inspired everyone from MAC Cosmetics, to labels like Suno, Prada and countless fashionphiles.

EDITORS / INSIDERS

13 & 14.CATHY HORYN & SUZY MENKES
The two strongest and most opinionated voices in fashion criticism surely deserve a spot on the iconic list. Besides, where would we be without Suzy’s inimitable hair croissant?

15. ANNA DELLO RUSSO
If the street style revolution has a face it belongs to the outlandish and perennially over the top, Ms. Dello Russo. If Lady Gaga gets a slot for sartorial antics, so should Anna.

16. POLLY MELLEN
From Miss Porter’s school to the pages of Vogue, Bazaar and Allure, in her nearly 50 year career Mellen contributed to some of fashion’s most memorable imagery.

PHOTOGRAPHERS

17. PETER LINDBERGH
One of the more shocking omissions, Lindbergh’s signature cinematic style has stood the test of time.

18. MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT
For better or worse their sleek, surreal style changed the landscape of fashion photography forever.

19. BILL CUNNINGHAM
The creator of street style and still its very best representative. Forget Sart, Garance, Tommy Ton and all the others – Bill originated it all.

INNOVATORS

20. MILENA CANONERO
Costume designer Edith Head gets a nod for her role in shaping Hollywood glamour, but Canonero’s inventive costuming doesn’t get a mention. Her role in crafting our vision of subversive glamour is unparalleled; Clockwork Orange, The Hunger, Barry Lyndon, Marie Antoinette – the list goes on.

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Pure & Simple

March 13th, 2012 |Posted by Janelle

Peter Lindbergh.
Iris Strubegger.
Vogue Germany.

Who says a great cover shot needs to be complicated; the April German Vogue gives us straight forward and evocative image that captures everything we love about Lindbergh’s work and Iris’ allure.

For more on the issue check out Vogue.de

Hair Armin Morbach | Makeup Emmanuel Sammartino | Styling Florentine Pabst

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Cover to Cover : November

October 17th, 2011 |Posted by Janelle

November provides us with an unusually high supply of beautiful covers featuring our favorite girls, but which one is the best of the bunch? Tell us your thoughts on this month’s lineup of covers.

Rosie Huntington Whiteley by Alexi Lubomirski on Vogue Germany
Diamonds are a girl’s best friend and Rosie never fails to look sexy, but it would have been nice to see her in some couture.

Mariacarla Boscono on Vogue Korea
As one of the girls who can do no wrong, Mariacarla never fails to excite, but we’re not sure if this icy image illustrates the ‘Woman Power’ headline.

Naomi Campbell by Ronald Dick on Lurve Magazine
The combo of Gareth Pugh and no-eyebrows is a striking look on the iconic Ms. Campbell.

Bambi Northwood Blyth by JM Ferrater METAL Magazine
The edgy Spanish must read gives us an elegant and delicately beautiful image of Bambi at her best.

Edita Vilkeviciute by Peter Lindbergh on Vogue China
Edita, Lindbergh and loads of Vuitton, what’s not to love?

Miranda Kerr by Jillian Davison on Harper’s Bazaar Australia
Mrs. Bloom in a curve conscious Mary Katrantzou ensemble that grabs your attention.

Lara Stone by Mario Sorrenti on Vogue Japan
At this point everyone is probably tired of seeing that Givenchy collection on magazine covers, but Lara looks fresh nonetheless.

Alina Baikova by Nicole Bentley on Vogue Australia
It is always summer somewhere and Aussie Vogue rings in the season with Alina in stripes and brights.

Lindsey Wixson by Phil Poynter on W Korea
Dramatic posing and an outlandish outfit bring this image to life – bonus points to anyone who can ID the ensemble!

Jac Jagaciak by Nino Munoz on Numero Tokyo
Jac never fails to look sweet, though it would have been lovely to see a smile on this ‘Gentle-lady’ themed cover.

 

 

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